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Missing the Batteries....lil help pleez!!

Missing the Batteries....lil help pleez!!

Old 11-14-2002, 03:52 AM
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Default Missing the Batteries....lil help pleez!!

I have a car(FTC3), I have a motor(trinity t-1 double turn 10), I have a esc(novak gt7), what about the batteries.................
Im lookin at the 3000 ultra metals, n-e ideas, plan on racin mod.
what am I lookin for
thanks in advance mikey
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Old 11-14-2002, 06:26 AM
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I'm not real sure, but Nicads are capable of higher discharge currents in the electronics world. Should give you more punch. Best you go to your LHS and ask somebody who drives electrics
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Old 11-14-2002, 10:07 AM
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Mikey -

The 3000mAh UMH batteries would be a good choice. You might want to look into the GP 3300mAh batteries as well.

Anyway, Pro Match Racing has good batteries. They have great deals on loose cells, and assembly is available.

jordanc -

NiCd batteries have more punch initially (maybe a lap or two) but then they start going flat right away. NiMH batteries are much more consistent, having good punch from start to finish. Add that to the fact that NiMH batteries have longer runtime, and you've got a winning combo for Mod racing. NiCds are still good for Stock racing.
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Old 11-14-2002, 01:12 PM
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Thanks cool so 3300, what about assembly, what extra parts would I need, links wires? just simple soldering right? thanks
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Old 11-14-2002, 01:44 PM
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Yep, it's just a matter of soldering the cells together using battery bars of some sort. You can get pretty much any battery bar, as they don't make too much of a difference. I prefer gold-plated ones, as they don't tarnish.

A battery jig helps a lot too. Something like Dean's battery jig works really well.

You can use connectors on the battery packs, such as Dean's Ultra plugs or Power Poles connectors. This makes it easier to install and remove packs from your vehicle. Or you can just direct-solder them. It's up to you.
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Old 11-14-2002, 02:04 PM
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if i direct solder them, is it a pain removing, and is there a certain guage wire i should use. thanks yet once again
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Old 11-14-2002, 02:45 PM
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No, it's not a pain to direct-solder the packs. However, you need to have your iron with you every time you go racing. I don't have a soldering iron (or any soldering skill) so I just have a local racer solder my packs and put Dean's plugs on them.

For the wire, you can use 12-14 gauge. I prefer 12 gauge for my wiring.
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Old 11-14-2002, 02:51 PM
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Glad to see you got sorted out there buddy. Sorry i couldn't be of more assistance
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Old 11-14-2002, 08:20 PM
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Hey you felllas are great, never get these kinda of responses in other forums... I'm sure I'll speak to you again, bound to run into some trouble along the way... thanks mikey
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Old 11-15-2002, 05:12 AM
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No probs.... Good luck!
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Old 11-21-2002, 12:21 AM
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Default RE: 3300

Hey

im not sure where you intend on racing but alot or RC clubs / organisations dont allow people to run 3300 mah cells at the moment, infact you can be disqualified for using them @ meetings. IF u just want to run your car in carparks or in your street then 3300's are fine be just be warned if you are running at meetings i would stick to 3000's
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Old 11-21-2002, 12:25 AM
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Also if you intend racing mod i would personally go for High voltage (HV) cells rather then normal 3000's, especially for mod.
these will give you that extra power that you'll need to get the required run time (most likely 5 minutes).
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