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My first break-in on my jato completed

My first break-in on my jato completed

Old 12-18-2005, 01:07 PM
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Default My first break-in on my jato completed

I have completed my first break-in successfully.

The weather was against me. Cold and slightly wet. Everytime I filled the tank up it started to rain..grr Scotland.

The jato is extremely fast and I just don't seem to have enough road for maxing the engine out to top speed.

The manual recommended tuning the carburetor on the 6th run. But I am happy with the performance and affraid of making it worse tweaking the carburetor nob.

Should I do this anyway? Will not tweaking this setting affect my engine in the long run?

Sometimes if I have the car in break I can hear faint metal clicking noises. Is this normal?
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Old 12-18-2005, 01:35 PM
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Tune the carb according to the manual. If it has trouble running, switch back to the factory settings which should also be written in the manual.

An overly lean mixture can cause extra wear on the engine. An overly rich mixture can cause the engine to hydrolock, which can also damage the engine. It's best to keep the engine running in a consistant operating tempurature. Make sure the needle settings stay consistant and accurate. Tune the needles often to ensure a good tune every time you run it. Also make sure it's tuned for the conditions. Use the manual as a guide to start with, and adjust the needles one at a time to ensure proper mixture settings. When you tune one needle, it's a good idea to retune the other one just to make sure the mixture is consistant across the board. The high speed needle valve should be tuned first, because it regulates the overall amount of fuel that flows into the carb. If you tune this first then when you go to tune the low speed needle it will be in good harmony with the overall amount of fuel that is reaching the engine.
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Old 12-18-2005, 02:14 PM
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Thank you very much. Helpful info.

The jato's low speed needle is located in a very difficult position to get to. Especially with the engine running(fear of getting burnt).

Tomorrow I will adjust the high speed needle for optimum performance.
Then adjust my idle if needed. And then adjust the low speed needle. The low speed needle at the moment is perfect (engine speeds up and shuts off). I suppose this will need adjusting after the high speed needle adjustment.

Geez, there's a lot more to know about nitro RC cars than I thought!

Thanks again
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Old 12-18-2005, 03:52 PM
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Yes there is. If you have any problems let us know. Just a couple more things to let you know about though...

Don't leave fuel in the gas tank for very long. After your done running for the day, clear the remaining fuel out of the gas tank and fuel line. Drop some after-run oil (3N'1 household oil also works) into the glow plug hole to keep everything from rusting and getting dried out. It's also a good idea to leave the piston at the bottom of it's stroke while the engine cools. The tapered sleeve will compress the piston as it cools and can cause premature wear. Spin the flywheel with your finger about 1/4 of a turn after you feel all resistance end. This will ensure the piston is at the bottom of the sleeve, and help preserve the engine's pinch longer.

Don't hesitate to ask any questions about your new truck. We are always glad to help!
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Old 12-19-2005, 04:09 PM
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I have taken your advice. thanks.

Tuning Day:
When I switched it on to tune today the engine was flooded. But I managed to get it going by clearing the engine.
I noticed today the engine took a longer time to get back up to speed. I guess the engine needs a few seconds/minutes to get the fuel going. Is this true? The breaks are terrible. Do people adjust how tight the breaks are..or are the stock the best setup? I fear making them tighter incase they slow down performance.

Today(1st day after break-in) the engine started cutting out on warm ups. Which is very bad I think..to lean and must be the weather/temps.
I am finding it very difficult to tune. Turn it one way slightly(high speed) and when I drive the engine stalls. Turn it slightly the other way and the performance is poor. I have my eye on a massive company carpark for Saturday/Sunday to continue tuning!

Last edited by Zenon; 12-19-2005 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 12-25-2005, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Zenon
Turn it one way slightly(high speed) and when I drive the engine stalls. Turn it slightly the other way and the performance is poor.
In that case, adjust the Idle Screw (clockwise) until the slider in the carby's throat is 1.5mm open when the brakes are applyed, ONLY when the brakes are applyed. Don't bother adjusting the Idle Speed without the brakes on.

Also, having an extremely fat or rich setting will reduce the engine temps to a minimal, so the piston/sleeve haven't yet compressed like they would in normal running temperatures which, consequently leads to premature engine wear, but being on the rich side is safer then being on the lean side.
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