schmuck

im new to r/c and i just got a xxx-t last week, now im not into raceing its just for fun ive got a few friends that have some cars and trucks we just run them together up and down the street but my truck keeps breaking ive spent more time fixing the truck than i have running it, im thirty now and havent had a real rc car since i was a kid(grasshopper) but i have had a few raidio shack cars here and there since, im easier on this thing than i ever was on any of the other cars ive owned and so far ive broken
1-left front control arm
2-front kickplate
3-lost a nut for the left front inner tie rod end
4-cracked off the retainer for the battery strap
5-cracked a tooth on the spur gear
6- and the motor keeps shifting foward

now i havent even had this truck a week yet and i only run about i battery pack a day in it, so ive used it maybe for an hour and a half

i thought these trucks were supposed to be good, whats going on here? i have to say im very dissapointed, do you think the hobby shop would take it back?

Platinum_Racing

Make sure you use threadlock on all the nuts and bolts, and keep your gear mesh set good. Not to loose, but enough to get good solid contact with the teeth. Too tight and it will bind and bleed off speed and power. The battery strap may have been caused by a wire in the way of the battery, so when you pushed down on the strap to put the pin in the battery could have been sitting on the plug and pushed back a bit too hard. Control arms are a weak spot on many stadium trucks...get the stiffer graphite ones from the Matt Francis truck.

Mine is a very good truck with a solid set of hop ups to make it a good competative racer. My XXX-NT is also a great truck. It may be possible that you got a bad truck, but I don't think it could be bad enough to send it back. Ask them if they can support you with free or discounted parts. If they don't help you, try asking Losi for help by calling the number in the manual. Traxxxas sent a kit I bought with 2 left rear control arms instead of 1 left and one right. I called and had them send another set. They sent Rustler ones instead of Bandit ones, but I called back and got the right ones the second time. The good part of the deal is that when the whole ordeal was done, I has an extra set of Rustler/Stampede arms for the 2 Rustlers and 2 Stampede's we have here.

Another thing you can do to avoid going crazy would be trying not to tighten the wheel nuts so hard. This stresses the bearings in the front wheels, as well as the stub axles. This puts pressure on the pin that secures the stub axle to the C-hub, which can break one or a combination of the parts listed above.

Hope your truck turns out to be what you wanted it to be! Good luck!

schmuck

thanks for the info

im just so aggrivated i think ive only been able to completely run down the battery pack twice without having to fix something, as the truck sits right now its got a steel strap holding the kickplate together, a screw holding the battery pack down and 2 zip ties holding the control arm on, and this is how its gonna have to be until i can get the new parts and then tonite after a five minute run through the grass it lost the nut on the tie rod end

its just making me mad that i spent $270 on this truck and i cant even enjoy it

i had made a post earlier about weather or not to get graphite control arms and everyone told me not to, that they were to fragile and the plastic would hold up better

Platinum_Racing

The only control arms I broke were the plastic ones. My XXX-NT lost a rear one during a race which I repaired with zip ties. The new XXX-T MFE I have hasn't lost any graphite parts yet. The reason people don't like to run them in bashers is because they are stiffer. They transfer more force to the wheel than into the center of the arm. They don't flex and bow like the plastic ones, but this also has the potential to make them more brittle.

Tempurature also has to do with the strength of the car. If you're in a cold climate or run in cold places the plastic will become brittle and break much easier than it would at room tempurature. What was the temp when you were outside running?

I have confidence that you'll be able to enjoy your new car. I love my Losi's, but if all I wanted was a backyard basher they wouldn't have been my first choice just for this reason.

schmuck

well i live in new orleans and it never gets really cold here, the lowest temps we usually see will be mid thirtys it only snows about every ten years and id say the temp when it broke was about 60

maybe ill try the graphite ones and see how they work

schmuck

ok i got the graphite ones today and they seem stronger, i do however need advice on a motor

Platinum_Racing

Are you planning on racing? If so, which class. There are many different winds and designations for different purposes. If your truck is the RTR II then it comes with a Novak XRS ESV, which can handle a 15T motor. Really it is ill advised to go anything less than a 17T. A 19T is best. I blew mine out with a 17T motor and 7° of timing. There are many people who have had similar experiences with that ESC, so keep this in mind.

What are you planning on doing with your truck, and how fast to you want it to go?

schmuck

well im not plannimg on racing at least not for a long time, maybe when my son gets older, right now its just for fun with friends, letting my kid watch it go down the street and chasing the dogs around the yard

im happy with the acceleration id just like some more top end with out loosing acceleration i was hoping to not have to replace the ESC but if i have to i will

right now it will run about 25mph or a little more with a 3300 in it and a little slower on the smaller packs i have id like to see it run 35-40 mph if thats possible

Platinum_Racing

A brushless system would make it Hella fast, but it would be a bit expensive. The best part is there is hardly any maintnence. Every so often oil up the bearings in the motor and you're all set.

A 19T spec motor like the REEDY quad magnet motors are good. Another good choice within that scope of propulsion would be the Fantom modifieds. We have a nice hand wound 13T Fantom...not only it is beutiful but it is heavy. The magnets are nice, and the speed is insane! A good Speed Gems would make a good choice. They are economical and fast. A D6 is another good option from Trinity. The Venom Fireball's are good for the money, but from what I've experienced...they lack torque and power. Sure they can move at high RPM's, but it chuggs along until it reaches those RPM's...and I mean chuggs... Like....it...doesn't..want..to..go. If you do decide to go brushless, look into the Novak line of brushless equipment. They are affordable and have plenty of power. They offer more runtime than the more powerful Reedy Neo One motor. The LRP Sphere/Reedy Neo brushless combo is a great idea for raw speed, but if you aren't looking for insane then the Novak is a great idea. The new line of Novak brushless ESC's will also run brushed motors as well. The LRP Sphere will also run brushed motors as well.

schmuck

if i go with the novak ESC and brushless setup about how much am i looking at spending and what would be your best guess at speed?

Team Duratrax

Novak sell remanufactured SS5800 units for $160 ($210 new) OR, you can opt for the more powerful GTB if you are willing to pay $240.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKSW0&P=ML

Top speed with the SS5800 should be around 35mph. The GTB 5.5 should reach 40mph+

schmuck

not really i was looking to spend $75 or less

briansid

If you're looking at $75 or less, stick with a brushed setup. You can also try Ebay. Sometimes you can find a steal. RC Driver put out an article on budget speed controls. Here's the link. You'd be surprised what you can find in a brushed ESC for under $100.
http://www.rcdriver.com/articles/bud..._guide_1.shtml

Platinum_Racing

All are acceptable with the exception of the XRS.

Team Duratrax

Duratrax Streak and Trinity SG Extreme 13x3

The best you will get for $75.