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Steering Alignment Issues

Steering Alignment Issues

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Old 03-22-2016, 04:22 AM
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I just built a B5M. I have it set at 2 degrees of toe in on the front. I measured it and both sides are equal, but I noticed the right side turnbuckle is a bit longer than the right turnbuckle. Any ideas why this is happening or if it will have any effect? If so, what can I do to fix the issue? Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:28 PM
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I don't know that measuring the turnbuckles is the best way to set toe in. Reason being there can be variances in the molded ball cups. So I'd either use a ruler to measure toe across the front/back of the wheels or get a cheap toe in guage. I splurged on a set up system with a toe measure plate so I don't have to make calculations
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
I don't know that measuring the turnbuckles is the best way to set toe in. Reason being there can be variances in the molded ball cups. So I'd either use a ruler to measure toe across the front/back of the wheels or get a cheap toe in guage. I splurged on a set up system with a toe measure plate so I don't have to make calculations

Thanks Bruce. I have a setup kit. I measured the Toe in and it's equal. However, I noticed the turnbuckles, as adjusted, are set at different lengths. I'm concerned about the effect that may have on the steering. I think the turnbuckles should be equally adjusted. Thoughts anyone?
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:54 PM
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In a perfect world you might be able to achieve perfectly even lengths each time, but considering real world tolerances of each part, it is not uncommon to have slightly different rod lengths. Make sure you are using the same ball joint settings on each side if your car offers it on the upright (I don't own the chassis in question so I do not know how much setup options it has).

The goal here is to get your setting correct by having your car track straight and turn in a manner you want. Slight difference is okay in my book as our RC cars are not perfectly symmetrical anyway.

I would also suggest verifying the EPA so that one side does not over turn vs the other side.
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Old 03-29-2016, 05:37 AM
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Start by making sure your horn is as perpendicular to the steering servo case as you can get it when your radio trim is set to 0. If you have a servo with an odd number of splines, for example savox, you usually can not get it perfect. Then use your sub-trim on the radio to adjust it to be perfect. Then start adjusting your toe links. Like the people above stated, you probably won't have equal lengths of toe link due to manufacturing tolerance. On other vehicles that have an adjustable link between the servo horn and the bell crank, you can adjust that length to get your toe links the same length. It is a good practice to try to get the toe links the same to keep the movement the same when you turn in each direction.
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by RaceDayHobbies View Post
Start by making sure your horn is as perpendicular to the steering servo case as you can get it when your radio trim is set to 0. If you have a servo with an odd number of splines, for example savox, you usually can not get it perfect. Then use your sub-trim on the radio to adjust it to be perfect. Then start adjusting your toe links. Like the people above stated, you probably won't have equal lengths of toe link due to manufacturing tolerance. On other vehicles that have an adjustable link between the servo horn and the bell crank, you can adjust that length to get your toe links the same length. It is a good practice to try to get the toe links the same to keep the movement the same when you turn in each direction.
That's not always true. Some cars have you set the horn at an angle. Where to set/adjust your servo horn to for "zero" will always be in the manual.

IIRC, the B5m manual tells you to set the horn 10* to the left of center with the servo centered.
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Old 04-01-2016, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
That's not always true. Some cars have you set the horn at an angle. Where to set/adjust your servo horn to for "zero" will always be in the manual.

IIRC, the B5m manual tells you to set the horn 10* to the left of center with the servo centered.
What version of the B5M manual do you have? My manual has a picture and description telling you to align it at 90*. I have the 90003 kit, not the lite or ce kits.
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Old 04-01-2016, 05:14 AM
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Many RC models have unbalanced servo horn to rack linkages/steering. Frequently the servo horn end of the link rotates in a different plane than the steering rack. Thus turning in each direction angles the link and adds movement to the same side. Takes away from steering one way and adds to the other way. If that makes any sense, tricky to explain, easy to demonstrate.

That's why the horn should be angled over a bit on many models to get equal on center steering, for small turns. I've noticed some manuals have given up on recommending this adjustment.

I vote for getting the toe turnbuckles/links as equal as possible in length, to help steering sensitivity and ackermann. May not seem to be a big difference, but it is the correct way.

Methods to help achieve this include servo horn position, both splines and subtrim if available as mentioned. Also loosening the servo mounting and adjusting its position some can help. I usually end up adding an adjustable turnbuckle to the servo horn link to tweak it in along with subtrim.
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Old 04-01-2016, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RaceDayHobbies View Post
What version of the B5M manual do you have? My manual has a picture and description telling you to align it at 90*. I have the 90003 kit, not the lite or ce kits.
That's why I said "IIRC". I don't doubt you're right. Could've been on the B4 or B44 platforms that I saw it. I just know I've seen it in the past from AE.
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