Slipper tight - no power to wheels?
01-05-2016, 12:03 PM
#1
Slipper tight - no power to wheels?
hello,
I've been out of the game for a while and I just built a TLR 22SCT 2.0 kit running a 76/26 pur/pin. i am experiencing some problems however...
i cannot get any power to the wheels
but the slipper clutch is almost all the way tight with no spring loading left. could it be the differential, i wasn't sure how right to put it but in all the videos they did it by hand holding one side of the diff, i did the same? any ideas welcome, thanks
I've been out of the game for a while and I just built a TLR 22SCT 2.0 kit running a 76/26 pur/pin. i am experiencing some problems however...
i cannot get any power to the wheels
but the slipper clutch is almost all the way tight with no spring loading left. could it be the differential, i wasn't sure how right to put it but in all the videos they did it by hand holding one side of the diff, i did the same? any ideas welcome, thanks
01-05-2016, 01:58 PM
#3
01-05-2016, 08:20 PM
#5
Tech Adept
Watch the videos. Going to be a lot of trial and error..
01-06-2016, 05:40 PM
#6
Too tight can flat spot the diff balls and/or rings. End up with a notchy action.
Try to tighten the diff a bit at a time to help avoid overdoing it. For a new diff build work the diff back and forth a lot while tightening it to break it in some.
Here is a good starting method that's always worked for me. Take the gear cover off, doesn't hurt to take the motor pinion off too. Loosen the slipper some. Hold the wheels, I typically stick a wrench in each outdrive or driveshaft to hold them. Turn the spur gear with your thumb, while watching the slipper spring, shaft and nut. The goal is to have the slipper slip not the diff, the spring, shaft and nut shouldn't turn. Tighten the diff and slipper just a bit at a time until the gear is fairly difficult to turn, painful even on the gear teeth if that makes any sense, and the diff doesn't slip.
Then break it in some more, either by holding each wheel in turn and lift the other in the air and run at a slow speed for say 15 seconds or so a couple times each. Or a easy track run for a few laps. Then recheck the diff tightness. Also if you decide to significantly tighten the slipper.
At all times listen to the car, a slipping diff typically makes a barking sound. Hear that stop immediately and check the diff.
Shorter and probably better answer, if at all possible find some one with ball diff experience to help check it out. Local hobby shop, track, etc. Like mentioned it comes down to a bit of feel and experience.
Try to tighten the diff a bit at a time to help avoid overdoing it. For a new diff build work the diff back and forth a lot while tightening it to break it in some.
Here is a good starting method that's always worked for me. Take the gear cover off, doesn't hurt to take the motor pinion off too. Loosen the slipper some. Hold the wheels, I typically stick a wrench in each outdrive or driveshaft to hold them. Turn the spur gear with your thumb, while watching the slipper spring, shaft and nut. The goal is to have the slipper slip not the diff, the spring, shaft and nut shouldn't turn. Tighten the diff and slipper just a bit at a time until the gear is fairly difficult to turn, painful even on the gear teeth if that makes any sense, and the diff doesn't slip.
Then break it in some more, either by holding each wheel in turn and lift the other in the air and run at a slow speed for say 15 seconds or so a couple times each. Or a easy track run for a few laps. Then recheck the diff tightness. Also if you decide to significantly tighten the slipper.
At all times listen to the car, a slipping diff typically makes a barking sound. Hear that stop immediately and check the diff.
Shorter and probably better answer, if at all possible find some one with ball diff experience to help check it out. Local hobby shop, track, etc. Like mentioned it comes down to a bit of feel and experience.
01-06-2016, 06:25 PM
#7
Too tight can flat spot the diff balls and/or rings. End up with a notchy action.
Try to tighten the diff a bit at a time to help avoid overdoing it. For a new diff build work the diff back and forth a lot while tightening it to break it in some.
Here is a good starting method that's always worked for me. Take the gear cover off, doesn't hurt to take the motor pinion off too. Loosen the slipper some. Hold the wheels, I typically stick a wrench in each outdrive or driveshaft to hold them. Turn the spur gear with your thumb, while watching the slipper spring, shaft and nut. The goal is to have the slipper slip not the diff, the spring, shaft and nut shouldn't turn. Tighten the diff and slipper just a bit at a time until the gear is fairly difficult to turn, painful even on the gear teeth if that makes any sense, and the diff doesn't slip.
Then break it in some more, either by holding each wheel in turn and lift the other in the air and run at a slow speed for say 15 seconds or so a couple times each. Or a easy track run for a few laps. Then recheck the diff tightness. Also if you decide to significantly tighten the slipper.
At all times listen to the car, a slipping diff typically makes a barking sound. Hear that stop immediately and check the diff.
Shorter and probably better answer, if at all possible find some one with ball diff experience to help check it out. Local hobby shop, track, etc. Like mentioned it comes down to a bit of feel and experience.
Try to tighten the diff a bit at a time to help avoid overdoing it. For a new diff build work the diff back and forth a lot while tightening it to break it in some.
Here is a good starting method that's always worked for me. Take the gear cover off, doesn't hurt to take the motor pinion off too. Loosen the slipper some. Hold the wheels, I typically stick a wrench in each outdrive or driveshaft to hold them. Turn the spur gear with your thumb, while watching the slipper spring, shaft and nut. The goal is to have the slipper slip not the diff, the spring, shaft and nut shouldn't turn. Tighten the diff and slipper just a bit at a time until the gear is fairly difficult to turn, painful even on the gear teeth if that makes any sense, and the diff doesn't slip.
Then break it in some more, either by holding each wheel in turn and lift the other in the air and run at a slow speed for say 15 seconds or so a couple times each. Or a easy track run for a few laps. Then recheck the diff tightness. Also if you decide to significantly tighten the slipper.
At all times listen to the car, a slipping diff typically makes a barking sound. Hear that stop immediately and check the diff.
Shorter and probably better answer, if at all possible find some one with ball diff experience to help check it out. Local hobby shop, track, etc. Like mentioned it comes down to a bit of feel and experience.
i appreciate those instructions i will definitely try that tomorrow. i hope i didn't already wear my ball diff.
i was thinking about buying the MIP puck metal diff, would this be a little more robust and hopefully i can get it right the first time. or is there a better option than this?
01-10-2016, 12:18 PM
#8
I was having this same issue with an older differential I rebuilt over the weekend. Everything was clean and practically brand new. I pretty much tightened the Diff all the way and it worked. I did a few things to break it in a little bit. I'm not gonna go hard on it until I know for sure nothing is on to tight / all aligned correctly.
01-11-2016, 01:10 AM
#9
In my expirence the tight diff causes traction loss in a turn sorta the effect of a posi rearend in a car
06-05-2016, 01:20 AM
#10
Tech Rookie
yeah i def heard the barking before i tightened it. now its not barking but I'm not sure if its too tight.
i appreciate those instructions i will definitely try that tomorrow. i hope i didn't already wear my ball diff.
i was thinking about buying the MIP puck metal diff, would this be a little more robust and hopefully i can get it right the first time. or is there a better option than this?
i appreciate those instructions i will definitely try that tomorrow. i hope i didn't already wear my ball diff.
i was thinking about buying the MIP puck metal diff, would this be a little more robust and hopefully i can get it right the first time. or is there a better option than this?
06-23-2016, 04:52 PM
#11
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