Hondacrx2

Hello,

As stated I am brand new to the RC's. I am looking to get into racing and have really come to like the look of the B44. I am looking to get started and build one. However I am wanting to get some more info on what to look for. I currently have nothing related to RC cars. I am very knowledgable when it come to real cars and street bikes. My main question is: what's the best way to start out. I see the b44 is about 360$ new and no batteries, radio, motor. Is buying a used car better? Or buying a used chassis and build it with new parts from there. Or buying all new equipment? I have been told b44's aren't the best starter cars. But I don't see a point in building a car I don't really want to race. Any input is great!

Thanks in advance,

Paul

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

Start with a 2wd. For new drivers, a 4wd buggy will be destroyed in their hands. If you are brand new, start with a kit though. Better to learn the kit.

Hondacrx2

Do you have any recommended sites to purchase from? Thanks

King DORK

iTrader: (53)

Agree with Panda. 1/10 scale 4wd is not a good beginner class at all. They're ridiculously fast (which is why so many people want one after watching them race), known to be prone to breakage, and higher maintenance than most other classes. A very good knowledge of vehicle and electronics tuning is necessary as well. I'd start with a 2wd rtr corr truck like the Associated SC10. You can take it apart and rebuild as you like following the manual and upgrade electronics as your knowledge/experience grows. Being brand new to rc cars don't try to go too fast for your skill level. This hobby can be very rewarding but can also be very frustrating if you jump in too deep too fast. Most of the people on this forum are very helpful as well so use it as a learning tool. Enjoy

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

What these guys said. Once you master getting a 2WD around a track, 4WD will be no problem. On the other hand, give some 4WD drivers a 2WD and they'll be unable to get it around the track.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

I had a 44.2 a while ago - it was my first 4wd buggy on the back on 25+ years of racing experience. Granted, it's not the highest quality car out there but my attrition rate was @50% and it was rarely even from crashing but when it was from crashing, it would be a snapped arm from a glanced pipe, not even a spectacular crash because at the speed those things go, everything is a "big hit". I just got burned out very quickly replacing diff gears, shaft gears, bearings, etc. etc. - it was a nightmare. Buy a 4wd buggy as your first car and you'll be wondering why you even got into the hobby in the first place.

Also to be considered, when racing, 4wd buggy is typically ran as a single class, that is mod and nothing else. So, as someone starting out racing, you'd be jumping straight into the deepest of the deep end whereas with a 2wd buggy or SC truck there is typically a class system that resembles a ladder for you to climb as your skills improve. It's very hard to get good at racing when you spend 20% of the race on your roof waiting to be marshaled and you're 5-6 laps down at the end.

To directly answer your question though, I would have a very hard time buying a used 4wd buggy - they wear quickly and are complex to build in the first place. 2wd buggies are a great buy used. I would recommend someone starting out look for a used 2wd buggy (many excellent B4.2's have traded hands in my area for $90-100 recently) but with new, quality/high-end electronics that you can move forward to a newer car as you move along in the hobby.

Hondacrx2

Thanks for the help guys! Since the buggy seems to be a bad idea to start. Is there at least any 4wd drive truck that do well? If my goal is to drive a buggy wouldn't it be easier just to start on a 4wd? Or is it far more complicated and hard to learn on? Also what would be the "best" starter kit. I would like something that is fairly competitive. I understand I won't be racing well for a couple months but I don't want to buy a truck and have to upgrading it with a couple of weeks. Also when recommending a good truck please recommend something that I can race locally. I am not very well versed in the different types of class's. But I would like to have a truck that is a pretty common class so there will hopefully local people to race.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

The classes and rules of your local track are something that you really, really need to know. See if they have a website with that info or a thread in one of the regional forums here or the racing/track locator section and try to find that out and get back to us. Otherwise, our answers may not fit your reality.

Hondacrx2

Below should be the local tracks rules I would be racing at locally. They seem to have a lot of rules not sure if that's common or not. I could post a site link due to me being a member here.



We all want to have fun – and the best way to do that is follow the rules!

All Drivers must first sign up before you are allowed to be on the track, this is strictly enforced

It takes 5 people to make a class - show up with 5 rc turtles and people to drive them and race!

No Drugs or Alcohol allowed on the property.

This is a non-smoking facility.



BATTERY AND CHARGING RULES

ALL BATTERIES WILL BE CHARGED IN LIPO SACKS! ALL BATTERIES MUST BE REMOVED FROM CAR AND CHARGED IN A SACK! SACKS ARE AVAILABLE IN THE HOBBY SHOP FOR PURCHASE AT “NO MARK UP”- THAT IS- YOU PAY WHAT WE PAY FOR THEM.

PURPOSELY OVER CHARGING AND OR CHARGING IN A MANNER WHICH HAS THE POTENTIAL TO CAUSE FIRE AND OR UNSAFE CONDITION WILL NOT BE TOLERATED. IF CAUGHT- YOU WILL BE BANNED FOR THE ENTIRE RACE SEASON- NO WARNINGS WILL BE GIVEN!

MAX BATTERY CHARGE RATE IS 8.44- IF YOU ARE OVER AT TECH- YOU WILL RUN THE BATTERY DOWN TO 8.40 (NOT 8.44!). YOU WILL NOT RETURN TO THE PITS- YOU WILL NOT TAKE TO THE TRACK UNTIL THE BATTERY METERS AT 8.40! (NOT 8.44!) THERE ARE NO WARNINGS.

General Rules -

Penalties will be issued for not being on the track to Marshall. There are numbered tubs on the track. you are required to place your car and radio in the tub and marshal by that spot. They are number 1, 2, 3 etc. if you start in position number 3 then you are required to be marshalling in tub 3 area. There are no warnings - if you are not in tub 3 area at the start of the next race your best quallifing time will be disqualified for the day. If you are unable to marshal, you are responsible to have some marshal in your designated area.

All oval Cars are rolling starts. Electric Mains are also rolling starts.

No car will be driven at any time in reverse of the track traffic. If this occurs, a one-lap penalty will be deducted off the driver’s best time. The use of reverse is illegal in all classes.

Turn marshals may not work on or repair cars.

It is the Drivers responsibility to bring the vehicle to the Tech table immediately following your turn marshal duties. Failure to do so will result disqualification.

Any violation must be corrected BEFORE the car is raced. If a car passes through "Tech Inspection" and a technical illegality is over-looked, the vehicle is still illegal.

Any racer may front $50 for tech inspection for any car on the track - if the car is found to be legal the $50 will be forfeited and given to the legal racer.

Vehicle Rules - Batteries: Only sub-C size Nimh or lipo's. A maximum of 6 cells.

No Nitro for practice or racing

Tires: All tires must be factory available. All offroad cars are required to run a factory available tire that is specific to that scale car. i.e. No truck tires mounted on 1/8 scale rims. Oval cars may run foam or rubber, but must be a factory available tire.

Chassis: The underside of the vehicle may not have any sharp edges exposed; all screws not already recessed must be of button type. Cars must have a front bumper that is made of a shock absorbing material e.g. nylon, delrin, plastic, kydex etc. Front bumpers must be mounted in such a way that they will contact an object prior to any other portion of the car in a front impact. Brakes: All cars must have a braking system capable of slowing the vehicle to a complete stop

Clutches: All vehicles must have a clutch between the engine flywheel and vehicle drive gear

Throttle Return: In case of failure, vehicles must incorporate a return spring attached to the throttle arm.



Oval Vehicle Rules

Tire Rule and Tech Procedure

We are a paragon free facility. Paragon or tire additives with wintergreen oil will not be allowed. Previous paragon odors can be removed with HOT water and dish detergent. You may have to do this a few times. Tires will not be allowed to smell of any type of mint. All tires must be wiped completely clean with a cotton rag and go through tech, even prior to practice. If a car goes onto the race track without passing through tech that car will not race on that particular day, regardless of when this occurs, including practice. If your tires are not wiped dry to my standards, I will wipe your tires clean with a rag prior to being placed on the race track.

1. All tires must be dry.
2. All tires must be completely free of any mint odor.



Please See rules section on dirtoval.com - located here

General Rules
All races will be 4 minutes in length, qualifiers will use Ifmar starts. Turn marshals may not work on or repair cars. Any cars damaged and placed in the infield will remain there until that race is over. All drivers must turn marshal the race immediately following their race. All cars will be made available for tech inspection before and after race. Once a car has gone through tech before the race it must go directly to the track and not to pit area. Tires may be Foam tires or rubber tires may be used but must be readily available for purchase (no prototype tires) Tire additives that are used must be wiped clean from the tires before any races or practice sessions. No Grease, No Silicone or Silicone impregnated tires.

Limited Latemodel and 17.5 classes: By entering and racing in this class you agree to the following. The engine, motor, esc and battery in the car is the responsibility of the person driving the car. If you buy your engine, motor, esc and battery from someone or borrow a car or motor from someone and it is illegal you will be disqualified and subject to the items listed below. You agree to allow tech personnel to remove and disassemble your motor at any time and agree that bumps and jumps is not responsible for any damage that occurs even if caused carelessness. You agree that upon request you will immediately take the engine, motor, esc and battery out of the car and completely tear it down to the bare block with bearings. You will do this directly in the presence of tech supervision. You also agree that if you refuse you will be assumed to be cheating and subject to the below consequence. You further agree that ANY engine, motor, esc and battery modification will be considered deliberate and you will suffer a lifetime ban of running any limited or 17.5 class in the future, in other words you would have to go run the open class, where you are allowed to grind a crank or rod or add ceramic bearings.

If an item is not addressed in the rules listed here than you should assume it is not legal.


Class Rules



Sportsman Latemodel and Sprint Rules

The intent of this class is to reduce the costs of racing by reducing the need for a speed tuned motor, expensive battery or a variety of tire options. This class will only be available for the racer who wants to put fun back into their racing – want to show up and have a good time without worrying about the motor dyno? Then this is the class for you.

Drivers who ARE NOT eligible for this class include anyone who is currently listed on any of lists currently used by the WDRA/USOWC etc. as well as drivers who receive factory sponsorship or racers who have a known ability that exceeds the intentions of this class. If you have to ask me “Can I run this class?” the answer is probably no.

Body & Chassis

DODC body and chassis rules

Electronics

SPEED PASSION Reventon Stock Club Race part number:SP000048

Battery

RC King 5200 30C
LiPo Onyx 2S 7.4V 4000mAh 25C Hard Case Deans
LiPo Onyx 2S 7.4V 5000mAh 25C Hard Case Deans
Dynamite 5302d Speedpack Gold 4200mAh 30C
DODC spec pack
Tires

The only tire permitted is Johns BSR Racing Tire – spec dirt oval foam tire with the purple band through the center of it.

17.5 Stock EDM

Body & Chassis

DODC body and chassis rules

Electronics

DODC Stock rules: Any Motor and ESC from the ROAR Approved Stock/17.5 Spec category and any ROAR approved 7.4 Volt 2 cell Lipo battery are legal. Batteries must use a quick release hobby grade connector for connection to the ESC ie:sermos, deans, traxxas etc. No additional batteries are allowed including those used to power recievers or cooling fans. Trinty D3.5 motors will not be legal this year as they become illegal half way through the point series.

17.5 Sprint and Late Model

Body & Chassis

DODC body and chassis rules

Electronics

Novak Ballistic, Premium Ballistic, High RPM Ballistic and Vulcan Spec 17.5 motors only.

Novak Edge



Street Stock Rules

Body

No additional braces, wings spoilers, or doohickeys allowed. Only the following McAllister Street Stock bodies may be used, camaro-264, charger-290, monte carlo-268, mustang-136, barracuda-134, regal-125, McAllister Truck body

new this year is a 1" spoiler is allowed for this class - measured from the rear of the body to the top of the spoiler.

Chassis

The only chassis allowed is the standard RTR chassis. No modifications may be made to the chassis. Vehicle must be raced in its stock form. Battery must be in stock location. No aftermarket or Hop up replacement components may be installed. The chassis must be stock, no aftermarket parts may be added except front bumpers. All kits must use their supplied components no mixing of any parts. You may use anything that came in the OEM box. as well as any shock oil, springs, spacers, or any body mounts you choose. You may add weight any place on the vehicle but may not modify the chassis or suspension in any way, including removing weight.

Suspension

Both the front & the rear suspension systems must remain in stock form. Hop up replacement components may not be installed, this includes different rear toe plates or caster blocks. All cars must use the stock 25 degree caster blocks and stock 3 degree rear toe block. Wheel spacers may be used.

Legal Tuning Parts

Direct replacement parts are all that is allowed allowed. Ball Differentials are NOT permitted. The part must be a direct replacement part from the manual. You may use any springs from any manufacturer and may add limiters inside or outside shocks and use any shock oil. You may add spacers to adjust anti squat or front kick up. We have decided to allow the use of an aluminum front pivot block or aluminum front pivot block brace, and a rear aluminum camber link brace.

Steering

No modifications may be made to the steering system. Original Kit parts only. All kits must use their supplied components.

Electronics

Original Kit electronics Speed Control. Servo may be changed to any servo with less than a $35 street price. You may install any Receiver you so choose.

Motor

All kit's must run the motor that was supplied in the kit. All cars must use the stock 81 tooth Spur and a 21 tooth pinion.

Battery

This class is limited to any 2S 7.4 Volt Lipo battery pack

Tires

The only tire permitted is the custom works street tracks in the hard compound, you may only use custom works rims front and rear. Fronts must be on fronts and rears on rears. HB compound tires are not permitted.



Offroad Vehicle Rules

Elimination of the Slick
All 1/10 scale vehicles will run a minimum tire height of the back side of a #11 blade
All 1/8 scale vehicles will run a minimum tire height of tip of a 3/32" driver

1/10 Electric Buggy

Roar rules apply



Short Course Rules

5 or less in either mod SCT or 4wd SCT will be mixed in the same class

All Short Course vehicles will run a minimum tire height of a .050 tip

Spec Short Course

Body

Any Body, but tires must be covered -ie no beetles

Chassis

Traxxas Slash, Associated SC10, Losi Strike and HPI Blitz in RTR for only. No modifications may be made to the chassis system. Vehicle must be raced in its stock form. No aftermarket or Hop up replacement drive components may be installed. The chassis must be stock, no aftermarket. All kits must use their supplied components - no mixing brands. You may use anything that came in the OEM box. No lowered chassis on conversion kits - must be RTR kit

Suspension

Both the front & the rear suspension systems must remain in stock form. Hop up replacement components may be installed, provided they are not a performance advantage. Must use the Stock RTR Springs that came in the kit.

Legal Tuning Parts

Direct replacement parts are allowed. For instance if RPM makes it for the Slash it is allowed. Ball Differentials are NOT permitted in the Spec Class. No performance upgrade parts. Lets be honest adding aluminum parts to your vehicle isn't going to do anything to enhance overall performance. If you feel you need it then by all means add it, its your money. The part must be a direct replacement part for that vehicle.

Steering

No modifications may be made to the steering system. Original Kit parts only. You may install any servo saver or servo drive-horn that you so choose. Associated – #SHV1504MG, Traxxas – 2075, LOSI – servo may be cnaged out to any under $40 street priced servo. All kits must use their supplied components - no mixing brands.

Electronics

Any brand brushed ESC. Brushless ESC in blinky mode You may install any Receiver you so choose. On board traction/drift device or Gyro’s NOT permitted. All kits must use their supplied electronics - the sc-10 may use the slash ESC due to reliability issues.
Motor

Any brushed motor from a RTR kit.
17.5 brushless motor run w no timing (ESC must be in blinky mode)

Battery

This class is limited to any 2S 7.4 Volt Lipo battery pack

Tires

Box Stock. No mixing Brands. Slash must run the Slash tires, Sc10 must run the SC10 tires and so on. Must be 3.0” inside bead diameter x 2.2″ outside bead diameter. Rims may be aftermarket as long as offset is correct to box stock. Truck must weight no less then 4.75 pounds ready to Race

Mod Course Rules -

Body

Any Body.

Chassis

Any chassis.

Steering

Any Servo may be used.

Motor

Any motor may be used.

Tires

Must be 3.0” inside bead diameter x 2.2″ outside bead diameter. All tires must be Short Course Truck tires - no 1/8 scale tires.

KyoshoSC

iTrader: (1)

Sooooooo many rules, Not fun anymore. Most local tracks really don't have that many rules and they don't check your car anyway.

This is a hobby to have fun. Drive the 4 wheeler if that's what turns you on. When you start out turn the motor down with your transmitter and turn up the motor as your skills increase. 2wd buggy's suck for new drivers and they look like crap that NASA landed on Mars.

4wd vehicles just drive much easier than the 2wd stuff. You will have fun much faster with a 4wd. 4wd and 2 wd vehicles drive soooo different that if your goal is to drive a 4 wd you are learning to drive the wrong car with a 2wd.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

The first part of the rules are just general stuff 98% of all the tracks I've ever been to have had posted somewhere. The long, long, long middle part are for oval classes. I don't race oval but when one of my local tracks tried to incorporate one into the layout, before they tore it out, I can say I learned the crowd that brought in needs at least that many rules...

For the rest, no, you are not going to have fun (or make any friends at the track) toddling around a 4wd buggy class with your throttle at 70% trying to figure out which way is left and which is right. And yes, 2&4wd cars drive differently but as already been stated, if you learn with a 2wd car, you will be fast with a 4wd one (Before I ever even bought a 4wd buggy, a friend threw me his radio before the second round of heats one day for his 4w mod car, I'm a mid-Amain 2w mod racer but with one warm-up lap and no other practice, TQ'd 4w mod that day in that heat) just automatically. Many people who get into racing with a 4wd SC truck never leave that class because they learn so many bad habits they can't really drive anything else. It's like someone going to a motorcycle store to buy a sport bike even though they can't actually ride a bicycle.

For the OP, The continuing issue actually a lack of OffRoad rules. Saying that buggy must follow ROAR rules doesn't even tell me if they're even running 2 or 4wd, mod or stock classes in terms of what is actually being raced. However, if they get an actual turnout for that class, you are in luck as your track offers a "Spec" Short Course class. It will be a turn-key way for you to get started, cheap and easy and three month with that will be more valuable to you than a year of half-completed buggy heats. I would go there and see what the "fast guys" in that class are running and copy their setup. Once you're running up front in that class, it's game-on as far as where you want to move your racing to.

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

rules are good. without rules, thats when things start to go downhill.

Hondacrx2

Thank you so much for the information MarkA. Are there any good standard starter 2wd kits that include most the essentials needed to start racing?

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

no, but something used might bring almost al you would need.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

If they are running the Spec SC class still, you would basically buy an RTR that will typically have everything you need in the box except for the battery and charger and from there you are rules-limited. Just drive, race and enjoy.

If not, as mentioned above, a used "racer clearout" package from the for-sale section here can get you on your way quickly but I would really recommend going to the track, hoping to see they still run the spec class, and going that route. Which specific one you should buy would be clear by what is winning when you're there. I would suspect the SC10 but with spec classes, you never know what fits a track best until you actually see it.