Getting Started.
01-02-2014, 05:04 PM
#31
Oh and you have not lived untill you have used the actual shock pliers to rebuild your shocks! Best feeling ever lol.
01-02-2014, 06:48 PM
#32
Exactly, I hate stripping a bolt and ending up re-tapping a thread after drilling it out. 15 min project turns into 1-2 hours. That is if the thread and dye kit is still in one piece.
But after working on larger diesel engines I have yet to be convinced that on simple hand tools that you really need to spend the premium on snap-on over the walk out the door brand craftsman. Ratchets and torque wrenches are a separate matter though.
As getting a shock wrench, is their a standard one for the class, or specific to each set?
But after working on larger diesel engines I have yet to be convinced that on simple hand tools that you really need to spend the premium on snap-on over the walk out the door brand craftsman. Ratchets and torque wrenches are a separate matter though.
As getting a shock wrench, is their a standard one for the class, or specific to each set?
01-02-2014, 06:49 PM
#33
There's no substitute for quality tools. 
, but for now ill stick with Stanley.
01-02-2014, 06:50 PM
#34
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Realistically you only need a good 1.5 & 2.0mm (Imperial equiv) as these are most likely the size of screw one will strip. I've rarely stripped a 2.5mm screw.
For a newcomer, it might not be evident, but spend a few years racing RC cars and if you count the number of times you removed and installed a 2mm it wouldnt matter how much one paid for the tool, it's priceless if it works! This also reflects the need for good quality screws as well, there's no compromise here, it's what keeps these hi performance models together.
For nitro runners, just having that perfect Hudy large handle for doing up engine mounts is critical. Fail here and you'll be spending money on spurs, pinions and even engine mounts if it's not fixed well.
The frustration alone will out way the costs, we do this to have fun right!!! Here's lies the crux, I'd be happy to lend my tools to a newcomer, but I also know that if the screws a Foobar my tips will come back shagged... Now who's not having fun...
The compromise is, buy a generic set of hex tools for general use, such as when fixing and mounting into plastics and buy a QUALITY 1.5 and 2.0mm for grub screws, layshafts, pulleys, engine mounts, 2 speed hubs, EP pinions and...and...and...
May you all have a happy tight but not seized, strip free 2014!
For a newcomer, it might not be evident, but spend a few years racing RC cars and if you count the number of times you removed and installed a 2mm it wouldnt matter how much one paid for the tool, it's priceless if it works! This also reflects the need for good quality screws as well, there's no compromise here, it's what keeps these hi performance models together.
For nitro runners, just having that perfect Hudy large handle for doing up engine mounts is critical. Fail here and you'll be spending money on spurs, pinions and even engine mounts if it's not fixed well.
The frustration alone will out way the costs, we do this to have fun right!!! Here's lies the crux, I'd be happy to lend my tools to a newcomer, but I also know that if the screws a Foobar my tips will come back shagged... Now who's not having fun...
The compromise is, buy a generic set of hex tools for general use, such as when fixing and mounting into plastics and buy a QUALITY 1.5 and 2.0mm for grub screws, layshafts, pulleys, engine mounts, 2 speed hubs, EP pinions and...and...and...
May you all have a happy tight but not seized, strip free 2014!
What the heck does "Foobar my tips will come back shagged..." mean.
Did you check out the "Pass the buck" thread in the "Chat Lounge", I wonder if Mini Baja has thought of going international.
Have a guday down undah mate.
Last edited by Big Trol; 01-02-2014 at 07:23 PM.
01-02-2014, 07:10 PM
#36
F-Trucked
Up
Beyond
All
Repair
Up
Beyond
All
Repair
01-02-2014, 07:34 PM
#38
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
I suppose its to each his own. I have worked on cars,trucks, and I race bikes and I can get by with some cheap tools. I understand a lot of guys feel they should invest in this type of setup, but I will probably just hold off until I need it. I do believe in quality tools but only specific ones like a torque wrench or good impact sockets, but I don't think I will be needing those on my car lol. I suppose I will find out if I start racing anytime soon and ending stripping something. Then you guys can say we told you so., but for now ill stick with Stanley.
, but for now ill stick with Stanley.
No room for drilling and tapping oversize or heli-coils on these.
Sometimes one of those little stripped screws can end your race, or bash day.
Have fun. Wouldn't dream of saying "I told you so" I know how that feels.
01-02-2014, 08:13 PM
#39
alllllrighty then....
01-03-2014, 07:47 AM
#40
Bucs... listen to me closely.
1. Panda's very first recommendation is a pretty darn good one. The B5 is a great choice if you can wait a couple months to get a kit. If not, get a used b4.2. They are EVERYWHERE now, and can be had for DIRT cheap. The B4/5 platforms are your best bet because parts support cannot be touched nation wide.
2. do NOT waste your money on a hudy toolset. The only thing you will need for the B5 are the following: (note: the B4 isn't metric, the B5 is)
-5.5mm nut driver - can be any quality, go with dynamite
-7.0mm nut driver - can be any quality, go with dynamite
-1.5mm allen driver - buy the absolute best - go with a thorp MIP
-2.0mm allen driver - buy the absolute best - go with a thorp MIP (yes, they are better than hudy tools... you can thank me later)
3. Take the money you just saved on tools, and get a better radio. Spektrum radios will leave you upgrading shortly. Go with the mid range radio from either Futaba or Airtronics (4pl / mt4). Again, you can thank me later.
4. Your biggest problem, will be tires. While the B5 RM can work on any track, no 1 set of tires, or even 2 or 3 or 4 or 5, will work at all tracks. You may want to get a list of the tracks you will be attending, find out what tires they run, and prebuy all the ones on list. The majority of your money will go to inserts and tires as the months go.
-cpt
1. Panda's very first recommendation is a pretty darn good one. The B5 is a great choice if you can wait a couple months to get a kit. If not, get a used b4.2. They are EVERYWHERE now, and can be had for DIRT cheap. The B4/5 platforms are your best bet because parts support cannot be touched nation wide.
2. do NOT waste your money on a hudy toolset. The only thing you will need for the B5 are the following: (note: the B4 isn't metric, the B5 is)
-5.5mm nut driver - can be any quality, go with dynamite
-7.0mm nut driver - can be any quality, go with dynamite
-1.5mm allen driver - buy the absolute best - go with a thorp MIP
-2.0mm allen driver - buy the absolute best - go with a thorp MIP (yes, they are better than hudy tools... you can thank me later)
3. Take the money you just saved on tools, and get a better radio. Spektrum radios will leave you upgrading shortly. Go with the mid range radio from either Futaba or Airtronics (4pl / mt4). Again, you can thank me later.
4. Your biggest problem, will be tires. While the B5 RM can work on any track, no 1 set of tires, or even 2 or 3 or 4 or 5, will work at all tracks. You may want to get a list of the tracks you will be attending, find out what tires they run, and prebuy all the ones on list. The majority of your money will go to inserts and tires as the months go.
-cpt
Last edited by Cpt.America; 01-03-2014 at 08:30 AM.
01-03-2014, 08:08 AM
#41
Bucs... listen to me closely.
1. Panda's very first recommendation is a pretty darn good one. The B5 is a great choice if you can wait a couple months to get a kit. If not, get a used b4.2. They are EVERYWHERE now, and can be had for DIRT cheap. The B4/5 platforms are your best bet because parts support cannot be touched nation wide.
2. do NOT waste your money on a hudy toolset. The only thing you will need for the B5 are the following:
-5.5mm nut driver - can be any quality, go with dynamite
-7.0mm nut driver - can be any quality, go with dynamite
-1.5mm allen driver - buy the absolute best - go with a thorp MIP
-2.0mm allen driver - buy the absolute best - go with a thorp MIP (yes, they are better than hudy tools... you can thank me later)
3. Take the money you just saved on tools, and get a better radio. Spektrum radios will leave you upgrading shortly. Go with the mid range radio from either Futaba or Airtronics (4pl / mt4). Again, you can thank me later.
4. Your biggest problem, will be tires. While the B5 RM can work on any track, no 1 set of tires, or even 2 or 3 or 4 or 5, will work at all tracks. You may want to get a list of the tracks you will be attending, find out what tires they run, and prebuy all the ones on list. The majority of your money will go to inserts and tires as the months go.
-cpt
1. Panda's very first recommendation is a pretty darn good one. The B5 is a great choice if you can wait a couple months to get a kit. If not, get a used b4.2. They are EVERYWHERE now, and can be had for DIRT cheap. The B4/5 platforms are your best bet because parts support cannot be touched nation wide.
2. do NOT waste your money on a hudy toolset. The only thing you will need for the B5 are the following:
-5.5mm nut driver - can be any quality, go with dynamite
-7.0mm nut driver - can be any quality, go with dynamite
-1.5mm allen driver - buy the absolute best - go with a thorp MIP
-2.0mm allen driver - buy the absolute best - go with a thorp MIP (yes, they are better than hudy tools... you can thank me later)
3. Take the money you just saved on tools, and get a better radio. Spektrum radios will leave you upgrading shortly. Go with the mid range radio from either Futaba or Airtronics (4pl / mt4). Again, you can thank me later.
4. Your biggest problem, will be tires. While the B5 RM can work on any track, no 1 set of tires, or even 2 or 3 or 4 or 5, will work at all tracks. You may want to get a list of the tracks you will be attending, find out what tires they run, and prebuy all the ones on list. The majority of your money will go to inserts and tires as the months go.
-cpt
01-03-2014, 11:03 AM
#43
Bucs... listen to me closely.
1. Panda's very first recommendation is a pretty darn good one. The B5 is a great choice if you can wait a couple months to get a kit. If not, get a used b4.2. They are EVERYWHERE now, and can be had for DIRT cheap. The B4/5 platforms are your best bet because parts support cannot be touched nation wide.
2. do NOT waste your money on a hudy toolset. The only thing you will need for the B5 are the following: (note: the B4 isn't metric, the B5 is)
-5.5mm nut driver - can be any quality, go with dynamite
-7.0mm nut driver - can be any quality, go with dynamite
-1.5mm allen driver - buy the absolute best - go with a thorp MIP
-2.0mm allen driver - buy the absolute best - go with a thorp MIP (yes, they are better than hudy tools... you can thank me later)
3. Take the money you just saved on tools, and get a better radio. Spektrum radios will leave you upgrading shortly. Go with the mid range radio from either Futaba or Airtronics (4pl / mt4). Again, you can thank me later.
4. Your biggest problem, will be tires. While the B5 RM can work on any track, no 1 set of tires, or even 2 or 3 or 4 or 5, will work at all tracks. You may want to get a list of the tracks you will be attending, find out what tires they run, and prebuy all the ones on list. The majority of your money will go to inserts and tires as the months go.
-cpt
1. Panda's very first recommendation is a pretty darn good one. The B5 is a great choice if you can wait a couple months to get a kit. If not, get a used b4.2. They are EVERYWHERE now, and can be had for DIRT cheap. The B4/5 platforms are your best bet because parts support cannot be touched nation wide.
2. do NOT waste your money on a hudy toolset. The only thing you will need for the B5 are the following: (note: the B4 isn't metric, the B5 is)
-5.5mm nut driver - can be any quality, go with dynamite
-7.0mm nut driver - can be any quality, go with dynamite
-1.5mm allen driver - buy the absolute best - go with a thorp MIP
-2.0mm allen driver - buy the absolute best - go with a thorp MIP (yes, they are better than hudy tools... you can thank me later)
3. Take the money you just saved on tools, and get a better radio. Spektrum radios will leave you upgrading shortly. Go with the mid range radio from either Futaba or Airtronics (4pl / mt4). Again, you can thank me later.
4. Your biggest problem, will be tires. While the B5 RM can work on any track, no 1 set of tires, or even 2 or 3 or 4 or 5, will work at all tracks. You may want to get a list of the tracks you will be attending, find out what tires they run, and prebuy all the ones on list. The majority of your money will go to inserts and tires as the months go.
-cpt
Will most tracks that have a hobby shop sell tires suited to their tracks for the 1/10th buggys?
01-03-2014, 03:24 PM
#45
off topic
Indeed, you are correct and I learned that FUBAR and FOOBAR are not the same, so my apologies.
FUBAR is, as described by Bucs
FOO-BAR on the other hand was an MIT general use set of variables, it's common to see them in script examples at Mozilla.
In topic
Hex drivers/tools.
Captain, I'll have a look into those drivers and try them out, I will admit Hudy does have a aesthetic quality to them that makes for a good experience.
Having said that, aesthetics come second when referring to a 2mm driver.
Q. Are the handles speed tip holders too?
Indeed, you are correct and I learned that FUBAR and FOOBAR are not the same, so my apologies.
FUBAR is, as described by Bucs
FOO-BAR on the other hand was an MIT general use set of variables, it's common to see them in script examples at Mozilla.
In topic
Hex drivers/tools.
Captain, I'll have a look into those drivers and try them out, I will admit Hudy does have a aesthetic quality to them that makes for a good experience.
Having said that, aesthetics come second when referring to a 2mm driver.
Q. Are the handles speed tip holders too?