i_got_m8_4_$85

all i have to say is PAIN IN THE A$$, i can never get them to rebound together. any tricks or tips and stuff. I also hear that ae shocks arent that good and people are just buying jxrs or tamiyas or the yokomo bladder caps, what a bout those???

Chris Brown

iTrader: (19)

I like the yokomo bladder caps, they work awesome. All you have to do to get them matched is fill the shock, get all the air bubbles out( as per instructions) and push the shaft up until you are about 1/2 inch from full compression, make sure there is a little bevel of oil above the top of the shock body. Then put the bladder and cap on, but only tighten the cap about half way. Then push the shaft the rest of the way up(oil will seap out of the cap) and tighten the cap. Repeat on the other shock and you should be fine. It sounds like a lot, but it's very easy to do and once you get used to it, it gets easy.

i_got_m8_4_$85

thanks chris

Chris Brown

iTrader: (19)

No problem, I know certain things in this hobby are just no fun. Let me know if you have any other questions.

ChadCapece

HPI's are the easiest to build. They have bleeder valves so all you do is fill them to the top of the body and screw on the top. Every shock is matched and they all are super smooth.

i_got_m8_4_$85

Ill think about that pro4 but i dont have the money for new shocks since im only 13 and dont have a job but thanks

ChadCapece

Keep practicing with those AE shocks. They can be done right, you just have to get into a routine. Only way to do that is keep building and rebuilding them over and over again.

Or the easy fix is to find some used shocks if your tight for cash.

i_got_m8_4_$85

ill look for used ones , never thought about that idea but is there anything i should look for to see if a shock is garbage on it or anything??

i_got_m8_4_$85

nothing

ChadCapece

Get a pic on the shocks. If the pic shows clean shocks, that means the seller atleast cares about them enough to make them look good. They should be good enough to buy then. The only thing that can go wrong with shocks is the O-rings. And they only cost a few bucks to replace .

i_got_m8_4_$85

what about the shock shafts?

ntc3freak

shocks shafts also cost a couple of bucks only. .btw,i have no problems with my ae shocks on my ntc3 so far.works like a charm.awesome shocks in my opinion

rocknbil

This is because they are not supposed to "rebound."

Springs are for suspension. Oil is to control the SPEED at which the shocks move, not provide suspensive force.

Let's say you **could** get equal rebound. Get it out on the track and hammer them a little, and some of the pressure leaks out (where it leaks out is ALSO important, read on.) There's no way to control this decompression, and you have four shocks all with different rebound. How controllable is that?

Preloading a shock, especially the AE ones, is the best way to insure that you will have leaky shocks (and yes I'm aware of the manual recommendations for the TC3, and I just don't agree with them.) When you slide the shock shaft in the body, it displaces the fluid and causes a rise in the internal pressure. Where's that pressure supposed to go? Right out the rubber seals.

A properly filled shock will not have this problem. You fill up the shock, bounce the shaft around to force out bubbles, then slide the shock almost all the way ot the top. Note how the fliud spills over from the displacement; in practical use this would have nowhere to go. With the shaft in this position, cap it off. There should be little or no "rebound." The shaft should move with the same resistance in both directions, in or out.

This is, and has been, the truth about shocks since I've been doing this, about 12 years, don't know what everyone loves about "rebound" but it's false. If you need more suspension use stiffer springs.

ThePrfctGetaway

That passage really helped me out too! And I need to rebuild my shocks soon, so thanks!!!