When should I be adding motor timing?
#1
When should I be adding motor timing?
Hey all,
I'm not really a "rookie", but motor timing is one of those areas where I'm still very green.
I have a 2WD SCT with a 17.5 Trinity D3.5 maxzilla motor (high torque rotor). I'm running blinky software and the motor is set at the factory default 0 degrees on the can. I run the truck for about 20 minutes at a time on our track, and come off around 120-125 degrees (measured on the end of the can).
On the infield I'm competitive, though the "fast guys" outdrive me just based on skill. On the straightway, the "fast guys" definitely pull on me, and you can tell their trucks have a much higher top speed.
I'm geared within the "stock" range for my truck, about 1-2 teeth higher than some of the other guys running the same truck. Since my temperatures are very reasonable, I feel that I'm geared correctly.
So... should I be adding motor timing?
As I understand it, advanced timing lets the motor spin faster on the top end, but you sacrifice bottom-end torque. I could gear up, say 1 more tooth on my pinion, and I'd also get more top end speed and less bottom-end torque. So which do you do when?
If someone could link me to a good read on the subject, I'd be happy to read it. I've only found opinions, and many contradicting at that. Thanks!
I'm not really a "rookie", but motor timing is one of those areas where I'm still very green.
I have a 2WD SCT with a 17.5 Trinity D3.5 maxzilla motor (high torque rotor). I'm running blinky software and the motor is set at the factory default 0 degrees on the can. I run the truck for about 20 minutes at a time on our track, and come off around 120-125 degrees (measured on the end of the can).
On the infield I'm competitive, though the "fast guys" outdrive me just based on skill. On the straightway, the "fast guys" definitely pull on me, and you can tell their trucks have a much higher top speed.
I'm geared within the "stock" range for my truck, about 1-2 teeth higher than some of the other guys running the same truck. Since my temperatures are very reasonable, I feel that I'm geared correctly.
So... should I be adding motor timing?
As I understand it, advanced timing lets the motor spin faster on the top end, but you sacrifice bottom-end torque. I could gear up, say 1 more tooth on my pinion, and I'd also get more top end speed and less bottom-end torque. So which do you do when?
If someone could link me to a good read on the subject, I'd be happy to read it. I've only found opinions, and many contradicting at that. Thanks!
#3
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
Yea if you can run for 20 min and come off at those temps you're under geared. Races are half that length at most and you can safely be 40 deg warmer on the temps. What is your gearing?
That said I've read several places that for 17.5 racing you should also max out the end bell timing.
That said I've read several places that for 17.5 racing you should also max out the end bell timing.
#4
Tech Champion
iTrader: (21)
If you max the endbell timing on a heavy SC truck, your laptimes are almost certain to take a hit as you'll never get the needed torque back through gearing.
The answer is in the question:
17.5/blinky SC is a momentum class. Faster in the turns leads directly to faster on the straights, period. When I ran 17.5 SC, I never went faster over an entire lap than I did with the endbell in it's OEM position regardless of motor. They key is twofold. First, as your driving improves, you'll find it comes with the magic bonus of picking up straightaway speed. Second, the biggest thing I found to gaining non-driving/line based speed in SC is weight. A competitive 17.5/SC truck is at or near minimum weight. And it's not hard to cut weight. For example, some SC bodies are +/- 4 ounces of each other just in the body. Are you driving with a Mcdonald's quarter-pounder taped to your roof compared to the other trucks?
Back to the motor/gearing side of the equation though - have you tried gearing down, i.e. take the 1-2 teeth off that you're higher than the other fast locals? These trucks are so heavy that you may actually be lugging the truck and that's hurting your top speed.
The answer is in the question:
Back to the motor/gearing side of the equation though - have you tried gearing down, i.e. take the 1-2 teeth off that you're higher than the other fast locals? These trucks are so heavy that you may actually be lugging the truck and that's hurting your top speed.
#6
If you max the endbell timing on a heavy SC truck, your laptimes are almost certain to take a hit as you'll never get the needed torque back through gearing.
The answer is in the question:
17.5/blinky SC is a momentum class. Faster in the turns leads directly to faster on the straights, period. When I ran 17.5 SC, I never went faster over an entire lap than I did with the endbell in it's OEM position regardless of motor. They key is twofold. First, as your driving improves, you'll find it comes with the magic bonus of picking up straightaway speed. Second, the biggest thing I found to gaining non-driving/line based speed in SC is weight. A competitive 17.5/SC truck is at or near minimum weight. And it's not hard to cut weight. For example, some SC bodies are +/- 4 ounces of each other just in the body. Are you driving with a Mcdonald's quarter-pounder taped to your roof compared to the other trucks?
Back to the motor/gearing side of the equation though - have you tried gearing down, i.e. take the 1-2 teeth off that you're higher than the other fast locals? These trucks are so heavy that you may actually be lugging the truck and that's hurting your top speed.
The answer is in the question:
17.5/blinky SC is a momentum class. Faster in the turns leads directly to faster on the straights, period. When I ran 17.5 SC, I never went faster over an entire lap than I did with the endbell in it's OEM position regardless of motor. They key is twofold. First, as your driving improves, you'll find it comes with the magic bonus of picking up straightaway speed. Second, the biggest thing I found to gaining non-driving/line based speed in SC is weight. A competitive 17.5/SC truck is at or near minimum weight. And it's not hard to cut weight. For example, some SC bodies are +/- 4 ounces of each other just in the body. Are you driving with a Mcdonald's quarter-pounder taped to your roof compared to the other trucks?
Back to the motor/gearing side of the equation though - have you tried gearing down, i.e. take the 1-2 teeth off that you're higher than the other fast locals? These trucks are so heavy that you may actually be lugging the truck and that's hurting your top speed.
But.. back to my original question. Our track if fairly large with a long straight in the back. I'm on full throttle and at my truck's maximum speed about 1/2 way into the straight. This is why I started wondering about timing.
It seems everyone has a different opinion, but I figured there must be science behind it. Advancing timing just allowed the motor to go into higher RPM than stock timing, correct? So, at a sacrifice of bottom-end torque you're gaining some top end speed. If that's the case, though, why does everyone I talk to in stock SCT say they're running higher can timing?
#8
Tech Champion
iTrader: (21)
You have the science correct, it really is that simple of a trade-off. The only thing I would add is that advancing the timing tends to narrow the powerband into only really making any when it's "wound up." The rest of it has me stumped - you're reaching the top speed of your truck earlier than you probably should be and you're running more gear than the other racers but if they're carrying a ton of endbell timing, you should be getting an advantage back everywhere else.
#9
You have the science correct, it really is that simple of a trade-off. The only thing I would add is that advancing the timing tends to narrow the powerband into only really making any when it's "wound up." The rest of it has me stumped - you're reaching the top speed of your truck earlier than you probably should be and you're running more gear than the other racers but if they're carrying a ton of endbell timing, you should be getting an advantage back everywhere else.
Of course I could be very wrong
I agree with the under geared part. I would also start there. Give it a shot, then turn the timing up keep an eye on your temps when doing both.
#12
Timing still set at the factory default, by the way.