williamsfw2427

Quick question?

Im going to try and race with my son starting this spring. I last raced with a 3000 Nicd pack in 2001 but time have really changed. My question is whats the minimum C should I be looking for to power possibly 2 B4.1 and 1 SC10 or 2 SC10's ( son hasnt picked truck or buggy yet) and 1 B4.1? 17.5 motors possible 13.5 at different track. Also would those packs work in a SC10 4x4 I have but dont think Ill race this year with my son wanting to try dont think Ill have the funds for four cars. If son picks the truck he will be running the 3800kv CC motor. I have one 25C 5000 but i was reading it might not be strong enough.

Ive been looking at the SMC batts great prices and good numbers just thought Id ask and see if someone might throw some tips my way.

Thanks

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

The SMC stuff is good for the money, as is ProMatch and unlike the Chinese un-brands, both offer some level of after-sale service in the unlikely event it becomes necessary. What I like about SMC is that he sells his out of spec batteries as being so; I doubt many other brands even test theirs to know if they have any out of spec packs and some of the el cheapo brands are known for shipping DOA packs.

Your limiting factor will be the 4wd SC. You'll need at least a 50C with a burst rate double that, pack to avoid cogging and overheating issues. For 13.5/17.5, C rating matters less than internal resistance and IR is often, in my experince, a function of how well the pack was assembled. I can/could run exactly the same lap times in a 17.5 buggy and stadium truck with a 50C ProMatch pack as I could with a 90C Orion that cost twice as much so don't overbuy or convince yourself that more "C's" = more speed in a stock class but also don't try to convince yourself that a 40C "Brand China" pack with a 50C burst rating is "just as good."

williamsfw2427

Thanks for the answer....

So 50C would be a good middle ground? At this point I dont need a battery that is rocket fuel. I just want something thats going to work and not break the bank.

50C 5000+ is the good middle of the road

Will a 25C 5000 be ok for a youngster in a beginner class

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Yes and yes are your answers.

williamsfw2427

Thank you

mcrcracer

iTrader: (12)

Out of all the batteries out there, SMC is definitely the best! They are made in the same factory as Reedy, but as others stated, he sells the batteries according to their IR, not the label.

The owner is a very stand up guy and has great communication if you ever want to email him.

williamsfw2427

I've heard nothing but good things about him. I used a couple of his batteries when i raced back in the olden days in WI.... Im guessing its the same guy and Batteries were great back then.

Scottypiper

For a stock Blitz to race Spec or Stock class with the 15T firebolt (the motor it came with) and 10 min heat races...would 4300 be good enough or do I need to go higher and with SMC's C rating...what do you suggest?

If I go Mod, I'll be getting different batteries based on the ESC and Motor combo but I'm well off from that point.

Thanks.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

4300 should get you through a 10min race distance.

locked

iTrader: (1)

Just thought I would add that the more mAh it has, the less drop off in voltage there will be and it won't slow down as much by the end of the run. I use a 6900mAh 100C 2s pack for 6 minute 17.5 blinky TC races. It's not that I need all the power and runtime, it's that the voltage only drops to just under 8V by the end of the run. If you are competitively racing, it makes a difference. Otherwise, don't worry about it too much, but it's always good to have a little more than you need.

Try to never come close to draining a LiPo. If you hit the LVC (low voltage cutoff), you've probably already done some damage to the cells and it will likely puff up much sooner. I say this because I get the feeling that some people think of the LVC as just a way to let them know that playtime is up, instead of something to stop their battery from going up in flames or just instantly killing it. I've seen so many people hit LVC in practice at the track. You really don't ever want to hit LVC, unless you've set it a few points higher than 3v/cell. Then you could get away with it, but best if the battery doesn't go much below half charged. Also best to never leave them fully charged for more than a few hours. Store them around half charged in a cool place(but not below freezing), even if only for a few days. Following these simple suggestions will make your batteries last for a long time.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

All correct and great advice but in the context of OffRoad, I don't drop a 5000mah pack under 8.0v after a six minute mod main so specs are much less critical as far as that specific part of it goes.