ICEBERG

iTrader: (6)

Hi guy's

I been away from racing for a while now. My last race was in mid 80's. Yeah it's been that long.

I had bought a Xray T2 007 about 5 years a go from a friend of mine to get me back into racing (he upgraded and sold me his T2 setup). The problem was i never found the time to do get to our local track to race this thing. So it's been shelved.

Lately i started play around with the T2 again and upgraded some parts to be more LIPO friendly. I got a new Tekin RS ESC along with a Trinity D3.5 17.5 Brushless motor. Got couple of Reedy 5500 lipo packs. Upgraded bearings, rebuilt it ect..ect.. Still using my old Futaba 9550 servo and Futaba 3PKS radio.

The questions i have... Is this still a good car to get back into racing with in the stock 17.5 class or do i need to upgrade the car? To be honest i don't know the difference with all these cars anymore. To me they all look the same. Same belt drive, same design and so on.

So would me buying a new car like Associated TC 6.1 or Xray T4 will make me a better driver or help me drive easier than the current car i have?

Also do i need to upgrade the radio or is the 3PKS still a good radio? Trying to ease to this hobby without braking the bank. Any help or advice would be great on how to get back in this again. What would you guy's recommend?

Thanks,

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

Everything you've got is current enough to get back in with. Go to the track and put in some wheel time. Run some races with it and then decide if you want or need to update anything.

rcduder

that would still be a great car too race its just finding replaceable parts may be a bit of a pain. and the 3pks is a great radio too use but if your not using 2.4ghz that would be one thing too upgrade in the future, 2.4ghz is the way too go nowadays just go too your local track and take a look at what the fast guys are running and what the track stocks parts for so if you do decide in the long run too get a different car you can have a good parts supply and help for setups the fast local guys will most likely be more then happy too help you get setup with the car you have now too, so don't be afraid too walk over and ask them questions as well

TeamSkunkwerks

iTrader: (142)

If you're out just running a club race or out having fun, that motor will be fine. If you're out running a ROAR race, might have a problem with the motor, as ROAR just changed this rule just recently.

"After a great deal of consideration the ROAR Executive Committee has determined that the Trinity D3.5 motor and others based on the D3.5, do not comply with the organization’s required specifications for motors in the 17.5 stock class. The determination is based on the fact that motors being sold are built with wire that’s larger than maximum specification permitted. All of the random samples of the D3.5 based motors during the announced compliance checks tested with wire that’s larger than the maximum dimension. Rule 8.8.4.3.1 states clearly that “The three slotted stator must be wound with 17.5 turns of 2 strands of a maximum diameter of 20AWG or 0.813 mm per slot. A diameter of .813mm is the nominal measurement of 20AWG wire, and that it is the stated maximum wire diameter permitted. It’s on this basis that the Executive Committee made its determination."

ICEBERG

iTrader: (6)

Thank you for the heads up. This is just for club racing, but i will be buying another brushless motor like LRP Vector X12 17.5 for just incase.

These forums are really helping me out a lot in getting back to racing. Lot of useful info.

rcduder

yeah kinda sucks cause i was about too get one glad i didn't ill probably be getting a reedy sonic or the version before this the d3

TeamSkunkwerks

iTrader: (142)

I run the Novak Ballastic myself. Also love the idea of just changing the stator with a different wind & running different classes. Seems like every track has their own set of rules about what motor & how many turns.
So basically, if you're running a 13.5 & the only turn they run at a particular track is say 21.5, you change out the stator. No need to buy another motor!! At around $35 a piece, it's not a bad investment if you want to run different classes or tracks.

CCDrift

iTrader: (18)

I didn't know that you could do that with the Ballastic.

HPI-Blitz 101

iTrader: (122)

You sound good on electronics maybe a newer servo but,that's really a preference..

TeamSkunkwerks we can tell by your signature you just get those stators free right?

ICEBERG

iTrader: (6)

I run the 3PK in HRS mode. From what I heard, since everyone switched over to 2.4 ghz the Radio waves should be freed up.

Also with servos go what would you recommend? I ran nothing but Futaba servos and been very happy. Now I hear good things about Savox and seem like LOT of people are running them. My 9550 is quiet and reliable. I heard Savox was little power hungry and noisy. Is it worth the upgrade to something like savox1251?

Cheers,

HPI-Blitz 101

iTrader: (122)

I have run Savox for about 3 months they are okay but,Require a external BEC on most cars as well they are nice and noisy..If I were you I would get a newer Airtronics servo.

Slo_E4

iTrader: (62)

You dont need 2.4, for the reasons you have stated. Your 9550 is fine, in fact it's a great servo and not worth upgrading. But if you're set on upgrading your servo, I would recommend the futaba Bls551. Your whole setup is competitive. I still rock a T2 008, and she's very competitive.

ICEBERG

iTrader: (6)

Thank's Slo,

I will look into the Futaba Bls551. Sorry but what is a brushless servo? I have heard about it but don't know the difference between like 9551 compared to Bls models?

rcduder

it has a brushless motor instead of the average usually coreless motors

Slo_E4

iTrader: (62)

Forget upgrading your servo, and upgrade to this!

http://www.exotekracing.com/xr07-007-lipo-chassis-set/