Trouble soldering
01-07-2013, 07:31 PM
#2
That is kind of an open question. 
What I have learned in my years of experience is a decent iron always helps and having the right tip on the iron helps that even more. make sure the surface or surfaces that you are soldering to are clean. You can usually use something like a alcohol from your drug store and a tooth brush to clean the surfaces. Flux can be your friend if used properly too, it allows the heat to transfer(flow) easier. As with everything else it takes time and practice. you can start by getting some scrap wire and tinning the ends (covering the ends with solder). Heating the wire and allowing the wire to wick in the solder. Allow the tools to do their job, patience. Even grab some old electronics and play or get something from a thrift store for a dollar or so and "play" with it. Hope this helps, it can be an art, kinda like painting.
What I have learned in my years of experience is a decent iron always helps and having the right tip on the iron helps that even more. make sure the surface or surfaces that you are soldering to are clean. You can usually use something like a alcohol from your drug store and a tooth brush to clean the surfaces. Flux can be your friend if used properly too, it allows the heat to transfer(flow) easier. As with everything else it takes time and practice. you can start by getting some scrap wire and tinning the ends (covering the ends with solder). Heating the wire and allowing the wire to wick in the solder. Allow the tools to do their job, patience. Even grab some old electronics and play or get something from a thrift store for a dollar or so and "play" with it. Hope this helps, it can be an art, kinda like painting.
01-07-2013, 08:10 PM
#5
1. Right iron - not a cheapie radio shack special
2. Correct Solder - 60/40 and 63/37 Rosin core is popular for electronics
3. Clean and prepped surfaces - use some alcohol and scuff the surface a little. I would scuff then clean.
4. Flux on both pieces - you don't need to use a ton
5. Tin both pieces
6. Hold pieces together and apply heat to get solder flowing, apply more as needed but don't get crazy.
7. Clean the joint with alcohol again, you should have a nice, shiny joint
Sorry step 1. Should be to check this thread out
http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...ef-lesson.html
2. Correct Solder - 60/40 and 63/37 Rosin core is popular for electronics
3. Clean and prepped surfaces - use some alcohol and scuff the surface a little. I would scuff then clean.
4. Flux on both pieces - you don't need to use a ton
5. Tin both pieces
6. Hold pieces together and apply heat to get solder flowing, apply more as needed but don't get crazy.
7. Clean the joint with alcohol again, you should have a nice, shiny joint
Sorry step 1. Should be to check this thread out
http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...ef-lesson.html
01-07-2013, 08:36 PM
#6
6 Seconds.
That's the maximum time it should take you to correctly solder a joint together. Any more than that and you risk damaging the components. If you're doing wire - wire or wire - terminal then you can go for a few extra seconds, just don't over do it.
As everyone has already said, get a good iron of sufficient wattage, use good solder, clean and flux and you shouldn't really have many problems. It's ok if you need to purchase a few irons as they're not designed to handle every task.
One thing I do want to add, If you're having trouble heating the component and you're holding the iron on too long, put the solder wire in the small space between the component and the iron. This will let a little solder connect the two pieces facilitating heat transfer. Once the solder starts to adhere to the component,then you'll want to move the solder wire onto the component itself.
Heres some pointers.Although it talks about through-hole soldering, same basic principles apply to pretty much all electronic soldering.
That's the maximum time it should take you to correctly solder a joint together. Any more than that and you risk damaging the components. If you're doing wire - wire or wire - terminal then you can go for a few extra seconds, just don't over do it.
As everyone has already said, get a good iron of sufficient wattage, use good solder, clean and flux and you shouldn't really have many problems. It's ok if you need to purchase a few irons as they're not designed to handle every task.
One thing I do want to add, If you're having trouble heating the component and you're holding the iron on too long, put the solder wire in the small space between the component and the iron. This will let a little solder connect the two pieces facilitating heat transfer. Once the solder starts to adhere to the component,then you'll want to move the solder wire onto the component itself.
Heres some pointers.Although it talks about through-hole soldering, same basic principles apply to pretty much all electronic soldering.
01-07-2013, 08:48 PM
#7
a lot of electronics repair guys like using radio shack's solder. 60/40 is for electronics.
they all rate it up there with brands of solder such as kester.
forget all that lead free stuff. it's harder to use. also forget about all that silver solder stuff too. just stick to the lead 60/40 rosin core solder for electronics and you're golden.
anyway here's a good 2 part video of soldering.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPD1AIov6tY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haN5VSM5AF4
also sears sells a weller wlc 100 for $49. amain sells it for $44.99 free ship but if you're impatient like me you can go to sears for it.
it's a great entry level solding station with 8 different tips you can get for it. which is a major plus. it looks like you can use all the popluar soldering stations tips with it. such as a hakko and trakpower.
http://www.sears.com/cooper-tools-so...1&blockType=G1
btw, don't buy the $15-$20 helping hands at the hobby store, they're only $2-6 on amazon or at harbor freight tools. and they're the same exact thing.
if you wish for something super fancy and probably 100 times better than those helping hands things,
http://thejigsup.net/Products.php
they all rate it up there with brands of solder such as kester.
forget all that lead free stuff. it's harder to use. also forget about all that silver solder stuff too. just stick to the lead 60/40 rosin core solder for electronics and you're golden.
anyway here's a good 2 part video of soldering.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPD1AIov6tY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haN5VSM5AF4
also sears sells a weller wlc 100 for $49. amain sells it for $44.99 free ship but if you're impatient like me you can go to sears for it.
it's a great entry level solding station with 8 different tips you can get for it. which is a major plus. it looks like you can use all the popluar soldering stations tips with it. such as a hakko and trakpower.
http://www.sears.com/cooper-tools-so...1&blockType=G1
btw, don't buy the $15-$20 helping hands at the hobby store, they're only $2-6 on amazon or at harbor freight tools. and they're the same exact thing.
if you wish for something super fancy and probably 100 times better than those helping hands things,
http://thejigsup.net/Products.php
Last edited by mtpocketsracing; 01-07-2013 at 09:08 PM.
01-07-2013, 09:05 PM
#8
Thanks alOt for all the tips . Yea I will try getting a gun like your saying from
Sears and will try that solder and good flux I have several connections that need to be done I have a few vehicles that need bullets installed for all my
Lipos . Iv thout about bringing them
All to hobby store and saying here but I don't guess that's going to help me learn
Sears and will try that solder and good flux I have several connections that need to be done I have a few vehicles that need bullets installed for all my
Lipos . Iv thout about bringing them
All to hobby store and saying here but I don't guess that's going to help me learn
01-07-2013, 09:10 PM
#9
it's worth the investment if you're serious about getting into the hobby. a soldering iron is probably the highest on the list of NEEDED items in my opinion. you don't need the station if you don't desire it. a 30-40w iron is all you really need. $15-20.
a roll of 60/40 solder has the rosin in it. the only solder that doesn't is plumbing solder. don't use that.
a roll of 60/40 solder has the rosin in it. the only solder that doesn't is plumbing solder. don't use that.
01-08-2013, 05:24 AM
#10
Spend $90 and get a good soldering iron. I'll never understand why people spend $300 on electronics and then try to solder it all together with a $12 soldering iron from Walmart.
Go read the thread 2canSAM posted, it's a great read.
1) good solder iron
2) good solder
3) use flux
Go read the thread 2canSAM posted, it's a great read.
1) good solder iron
2) good solder
3) use flux
01-08-2013, 06:16 AM
#11
Originally Posted by EricW
Spend $90 and get a good soldering iron. I'll never understand why people spend $300 on electronics and then try to solder it all together with a $12 soldering iron from Walmart.
Go read the thread 2canSAM posted, it's a great read.
1) good solder iron
2) good solder
3) use flux
Go read the thread 2canSAM posted, it's a great read.
1) good solder iron
2) good solder
3) use flux
I know plenty of electronics repair guys that use a cheap iron out in the field and fix $100k equipment with it.
you don't "need" a $100 solding station to solder a wire to a bullet connector. any 35w iron will work.
but it's not as cool looking and no one makes a "skin" for it to make it even more "cool" so some of you snub your noses up at them
if you were going to be solding things daily I would get the $100 station. at best you solder stuff a few times a year. if it's coming loose then you need to learn how to solder.
so begs the question why stop at the $90 one. there are some out there that cost $1100. you don't want to mess up your esc and motor do you? better get one today.... http://www.sears.com/weller-solder-f...6&blockType=G6
01-08-2013, 07:18 AM
#12
The key to soldering is solder and flux. If neither end of the joint you are trying to solder has enough solder or flux or the flux is gone, the solder will not flow. You can always remove excess solder. You can't fix overheated electronics because of bad soldering.
Heat is also key depending on the size of wire will depend on the wattage required to get the job done correctly. I don't like doing anything over 12g with 40w irons. a 40-50w iron is what you need on 16-12g wire.
I have a $17 weller 40watt in my tool box for the track and a $150 weller on the bench at home. Which one works the best? The $17.
I also just won a Maxamps 100W iron and its awesome. mainly because the iron sticks out the end of its stand and I don't need a 3rd hand! tin both sides touch the iron and BAM done.
Heat is also key depending on the size of wire will depend on the wattage required to get the job done correctly. I don't like doing anything over 12g with 40w irons. a 40-50w iron is what you need on 16-12g wire.
I have a $17 weller 40watt in my tool box for the track and a $150 weller on the bench at home. Which one works the best? The $17.
I also just won a Maxamps 100W iron and its awesome. mainly because the iron sticks out the end of its stand and I don't need a 3rd hand! tin both sides touch the iron and BAM done.
01-08-2013, 07:25 AM
#13
Yea I'm going to get a decent solder station I don't need anything crazy nice because after I solder these few vehicles I should be done for a while that's why I was thinking of having the hobby shop do it . Although it is something I would like to know how to do . No point in having to pay someone to do it when I could spend a
Little money get me a station and solder I need then never have to pay anyone
Little money get me a station and solder I need then never have to pay anyone
