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SC10 stopped running. Need help with diagnostics
Hey guys,
I picked up a SC10 off of Ebay a week or so ago, and on its second run last night the car stopped working. When pressing the throttle the motor does not make a sound or movement, but the steering servo works fine when spinning the wheel. I made sure the battery was full and I checked all of the wires from the esc to the motor and everything is connected, and I do not know where to go from here. Is there a way I could determine if it is a bad motor or bad esc? I have a Novak GTB and a Tekin Redline 17.5. Thanks so much for the help! |
Do you have access to another esc or motor? What lights come on the gtb when you turn it on?
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Unfortunately this is the only ESC and motor I have at this time.
A red light comes on on the GTB. |
I just turned it on and it worked. Im am baffled why it would not work for so long but it just started working.
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If you have a different receiver than the stock sometimes it has trouble starting up a friend of mine put a HPI receiver in his and some times he had to wait 2 full mins before it would go.
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Originally Posted by RedlyneTheory
(Post 11421524)
I just turned it on and it worked. Im am baffled why it would not work for so long but it just started working.
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Know a few people that have had issues with gtb and redline motors ..but I also agree with blis...but run time and temps r not stated .More info will help..info-gearing-temps-runtime-battery..
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Wonder too about low voltage cut off?
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Thanks for all the input guys.
Originally Posted by Badcompny44
(Post 11421659)
If you have a different receiver than the stock sometimes it has trouble starting up a friend of mine put a HPI receiver in his and some times he had to wait 2 full mins before it would go.
Originally Posted by blis
(Post 11421716)
If it was hot when it stopped. It may have been thermal protection system
Originally Posted by tntpoof
(Post 11422979)
Know a few people that have had issues with gtb and redline motors ..but I also agree with blis...but run time and temps r not stated .More info will help..info-gearing-temps-runtime-battery..
Originally Posted by lbenton
(Post 11423005)
Wonder too about low voltage cut off?
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15/84 is way under geared in my opinion.. should be like 19/84 if not more.. I run on my 17.5.. 23/76 in my slash..I know trans gearing is slightly different but not that much..sound like u cooked the motor ..manual here..http://www.teamnovak.com/products/esc/gtb/index.html
.. might wanta check ur 5.2volts coming from ESC that also might be problem..see if someone has a extra motor u can test also look 4 a ubec..might be the problem.. |
Make sure you set your Low voltage cut off on any esc you run else you could end up with a flaming lipo.
Good cut off is 3.4v per cell. |
Originally Posted by HPI-Blitz 101
(Post 11426455)
Make sure you set your Low voltage cut off on any esc you run else you could end up with a flaming lipo.
Good cut off is 3.4v per cell. |
Originally Posted by tntpoof
(Post 11426513)
Not going to happen ever..U can safely take a lipo to 3.0v a cell..u will never flame a lipo running it below 3.4v a cell MYTH..
3.4v was just a place to set the LVC, 3.0v is fine just might not be best for the battery life though. |
1 Attachment(s)
While it’s true that low voltages typically don’t directly cause lipo fires, that’s more of a physical damage & overcharging issue, can we agree that at some point over discharging a lipo causes degradation?
The practical issue with the 3V/cell guideline is with packs over one cell in series. Any cell imbalance in a pack can lead to an individual cell going below 3V, say if using a 6V cutoff for a 2S pack for example. Likely more of a concern for 4S and higher. Even if the packs are originally top quality well matched, as they age they tend to or at least can drift out of balance. Lipos tend to hold voltage fairly well through the run then drop off fairly quickly at the end. Discharge graphs typically indicate very little run time left after 3.4~3.3V. A 3V/cell cutoff generally gains very little runtime, with increased risk of cell damage for a series pack. For many I think it is not a good tradeoff and less than ideal advice, especially for new enthusiasts since we’re in the rookie zone. For what little it's worth I rarely run to a 3.2V cutoff and have great success with packs maintaining condition, capacity, and low IR, along with proper care and storage. Sample discharge graph credit to everydayflyer on RCGroups. |
Originally Posted by Dave H
(Post 11426936)
While it’s true that low voltages typically don’t directly cause lipo fires, that’s more of a physical damage & overcharging issue, can we agree that at some point over discharging a lipo causes degradation?
The practical issue with the 3V/cell guideline is with packs over one cell in series. Any cell imbalance in a pack can lead to an individual cell going below 3V, say if using a 6V cutoff for a 2S pack for example. Likely more of a concern for 4S and higher. Even if the packs are originally top quality well matched, as they age they tend to or at least can drift out of balance. Lipos tend to hold voltage fairly well through the run then drop off fairly quickly at the end. Discharge graphs typically indicate very little run time left after 3.4~3.3V. A 3V/cell cutoff generally gains very little runtime, with increased risk of cell damage for a series pack. For many I think it is not a good tradeoff and less than ideal advice, especially for new enthusiasts since we’re in the rookie zone. For what little it's worth I rarely run to a 3.2V cutoff and have great success with packs maintaining condition, capacity, and low IR, along with proper care and storage. I am not saying it will catch but, you are running risks with dropping it below 3.0v. As for 3.4v that's just what I try to set the cutoff on all of my Escs for, if you want to set it at 3.0v that's fine its just not the best. |
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