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Slash 2WD VXL Question List

Slash 2WD VXL Question List

Old 11-01-2012, 12:12 AM
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Taking my first trip to the track tomorrow i have alot of questions.
Current Setup:
Proline Power Strokes
Proline Suspension Kit
Proline Switch Tires on kit wheels, changed rear hub blocks(black) to wider front blocks(grey)
Stock rear shock tower since the proline cracked installing a couple bolts.

I took off the front helpers to lower the nose and make it more drivable.

Question list: (indoor short course)
1) Pistons and oil weight (read that 50F/40R is close but which pistons?)

2) Moving front camber tierods to bottom reduces bump steer but does this cause more roll over? Please elaborate what moving these up and down effects.

3) What ride height do you set toe in? i set mine at a arms extended as if under acceleration strait up is this wrong? If so what height do you set it and do you toe it out strait up or in? If so how much?

4) Shock angles, more angle or less angle what does this do?

5) Ride height, what is a good base line for front and rear arm angles?

6) What is a good baseline on camber front and rear?

7) Rear camber tie rod positions (cant adjust it up on stock rear tower without binding the heim up but what does this do?

Any other tips appreciated. I am wanting to know what all these things effect and i havent found a thread that really elaborates on all the topics and i think this would benefit many new comers to have all these questions expertly answered on a novice thread thanks so much!
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:30 AM
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1) I'd suggest asking the guys racing Slash's that question here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...chance-62.html

2) Camber links do not effect bump steer. For good reading on what camber link position does do, read this thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html

3) Set your toe at static ride height, that is whatever ride height the truck is set to come to rest at when dropped from roughly 12 inches. You will want your toe to be as close to straight as possible.

4) Read this: http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...ing-positions/

5) Ride height is best measured using a ride height gauge from the ground up. The 27-29mm range seems to be typical for SC trucks but if you're going to do it "old school", start with your arms level, i.e. straight across.

6) -1 is good general start.

7) See camber thread above

I have two final tips for you. First, don't overthink setup, there's no one magic bullet. Second, IMO, OffRoad RC Racing is 90% driver anyway, 9% tires, 1% stuff like camber links and so on. Having the right tires for the track you're going to will do exponentially more than every other question you asked as far as getting your truck in the ballpark. If you don't see anyone else running the tires you have, head to the shop counter and buy a set of whatever everyone else does have or you'll wind up chasing ghosts in your setup and not even getting to really work on your driving.
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkA View Post
1) Second, IMO, OffRoad RC Racing is 90% driver anyway, 9% tires, 1% stuff like camber links and so on. Having the right tires for the track you're going to will do exponentially more than every other question you asked as far as getting your truck in the ballpark.
+1 to this . The right tires, and driving practice are the place to start. That's 99% of it. Have fun racing!
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:48 AM
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Had my first track time last night at an indoor place it was awesome and its so funny how you posted about 90% driver 9% tires 1% setup lmao all i did was tune myself outa the park from my baseline and didnt get as much seat time, if only i would have read this before i went thank you for the links also! Had a blast usually its not fun if im horrible at something but i got my $10 worth last night!
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:35 AM
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I am a couple trips to the track ahead of you. What I was told is if you put the toe out a little in the front it helps the steering for tighter turns. And loosen up the shock preloads in the front so when you come into the turn the nose of the car dips down a little which enables the front tires to have more weight to get the turn to happen.
Lastly if you have a st rate on your controller, if its all the way to the right it will steer sharp and fast. Mine was at the zero mark, and I could barely make any of the turns, without having to take the widest angle.
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