looking for a first kit
09-30-2012, 05:37 AM
#1
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
looking for a first kit
hello all,
i'm new to rc cars. i own three. they were ready to race. all i had to do was buy a battery or put fuel in and go.
i'm ready to take the next step. i want to build a monster truck kit. i am wanting to go with a monster truck because the truck is best suited to where i live. i run the car at a local park. the park is nothing but grass. i'd be interested in a buggy if it has enough height to clear cut grass.
i own some basic hand tools. screwdrivers, wrenches, soldering iron.
so my questions are:
what is a good kit for a beginer? (new to rc)
what is a better route to go for learning, electric or nitro?
should i invest in specialty tools? are they needed?
my goals in wanting to build a kit:
- to learn how to work on my own cars
- to have fun tinkering in my garage
so what do you all think?
thanks
pdx
i'm new to rc cars. i own three. they were ready to race. all i had to do was buy a battery or put fuel in and go.
i'm ready to take the next step. i want to build a monster truck kit. i am wanting to go with a monster truck because the truck is best suited to where i live. i run the car at a local park. the park is nothing but grass. i'd be interested in a buggy if it has enough height to clear cut grass.
i own some basic hand tools. screwdrivers, wrenches, soldering iron.
so my questions are:
what is a good kit for a beginer? (new to rc)
what is a better route to go for learning, electric or nitro?
should i invest in specialty tools? are they needed?
my goals in wanting to build a kit:
- to learn how to work on my own cars
- to have fun tinkering in my garage
so what do you all think?
thanks
pdx
Last edited by pdx; 09-30-2012 at 07:50 AM. Reason: spell check
09-30-2012, 10:05 AM
#3
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
i own a traxxas tmaxx. been playing with the nitro a little. some days it works great. then some days i spend just getting it to idle. ha ha ha
electric and nitro each have their good points and bad. both are cool.
09-30-2012, 02:05 PM
#4
It may be hard to find, but an 8th scale electric truggy would be great for your purposes. Nitro is common in 8th scale truggy, but not electric at this point, so if you WANT to learn Nitro engine tuning and the like, then this is definitely the way to go. Most places will also still let you run the truggies with 8th scale buggies outside if you hit a track at some point too and the class isn't running currently. The biggest difference in setup would be that you'd drop the ride height for a race and keep it up for your park bashing.
8th scale is larger, but the parts are typically a lot more durable as well, and also easier to work on due to size. While a bit more expensive than smaller scales, you don't go to the REALLY expensive 5th scale, which is also less fun to drive for most unless you have HUGE open spaces.
For any/all kits you'll at the very least want to invest in a good set of hex drivers (screwdrivers for alen wrench style). Depending on your kit, this may be metric or american standard sizes. Losi, Associated, and a few others sell a multi-size tool for this (I have the Losi) which work well. Once you get your kit I highly recommend also getting a MIP driver for the size you're most commonly working with in the kit, to simply things, give you a 2nd driver, and take most of the wear off of the multi-tool tip. When packing light, just take the multi-tool.
8th scale is larger, but the parts are typically a lot more durable as well, and also easier to work on due to size. While a bit more expensive than smaller scales, you don't go to the REALLY expensive 5th scale, which is also less fun to drive for most unless you have HUGE open spaces.
For any/all kits you'll at the very least want to invest in a good set of hex drivers (screwdrivers for alen wrench style). Depending on your kit, this may be metric or american standard sizes. Losi, Associated, and a few others sell a multi-size tool for this (I have the Losi) which work well. Once you get your kit I highly recommend also getting a MIP driver for the size you're most commonly working with in the kit, to simply things, give you a 2nd driver, and take most of the wear off of the multi-tool tip. When packing light, just take the multi-tool.
09-30-2012, 02:53 PM
#5
hello all,
i'm new to rc cars. i own three. they were ready to race. all i had to do was buy a battery or put fuel in and go.
i'm ready to take the next step. i want to build a monster truck kit. i am wanting to go with a monster truck because the truck is best suited to where i live. i run the car at a local park. the park is nothing but grass. i'd be interested in a buggy if it has enough height to clear cut grass.
i own some basic hand tools. screwdrivers, wrenches, soldering iron.
so my questions are:
what is a good kit for a beginer? (new to rc)
what is a better route to go for learning, electric or nitro?
should i invest in specialty tools? are they needed?
my goals in wanting to build a kit:
- to learn how to work on my own cars
- to have fun tinkering in my garage
so what do you all think?
thanks
pdx
i'm new to rc cars. i own three. they were ready to race. all i had to do was buy a battery or put fuel in and go.
i'm ready to take the next step. i want to build a monster truck kit. i am wanting to go with a monster truck because the truck is best suited to where i live. i run the car at a local park. the park is nothing but grass. i'd be interested in a buggy if it has enough height to clear cut grass.
i own some basic hand tools. screwdrivers, wrenches, soldering iron.
so my questions are:
what is a good kit for a beginer? (new to rc)
what is a better route to go for learning, electric or nitro?
should i invest in specialty tools? are they needed?
my goals in wanting to build a kit:
- to learn how to work on my own cars
- to have fun tinkering in my garage
so what do you all think?
thanks
pdx
However, if you are near a track, get a kit from your local hobby shop as they will have the parts to upgrade or repair the kit when you're ready.
Either way, I would recommend electric vs. nitro unless you are good with small engines.
And yes, you need to invest in a few good tools. DO NOT buy the cheapest thinking that all tools are the same b/c they are definitely NOT the same. Trust me and learn from my mistakes.
If you're racing, I'd start with a Losi or associated. If you're just going to be bashing around the yard, I would point you toward an Axial SCX10 or a Tamiya Mud Blaster or Blackfoot. Tamiya kits have great instructions and high quality components and are virtually indestructible.
Good Luck!
09-30-2012, 06:34 PM
#6
An electric truggy or a thunder tiger mt4 g3 would be best suited for you. All i can say is don't go nitro unless you have a very patient, experienced mentor to help you learnd to tune it. I had no idea how to tune a nitro engine just a few days ago. I did learn how to set the bottom end somewhat but i still require a lot of help getting it just right. There are a lot more rules in nitro on do's and don't's. If electric truggy was an official class nationwide like electric 8th buggy i would vouch for that no questions asked. No matter what anybody tells you, nitro is always more complicated and takes more patience. Electric, you just flip a switch and your good to go. Really tempted to sell my truggy and get an electric 8th scale buggy. Just can't cause i'm low on cash and i'll never get my money back out of it.
09-30-2012, 08:57 PM
#7
Nitro is fun and I love it. It will make you pound your head very quick. Tuning is key and regular matinence. I got lazy and when it got down to running a 30min main in my truggy I didn't check my clutch bell bearings. So 17 min in unless I stayed on the gas it would cut off. So for 13 min of staying on the gas, it was a rough night. I still placed and was happy with that
But if you are having problems keeping a Trx motor to idle I'd stay electric
But if you are having problems keeping a Trx motor to idle I'd stay electric
09-30-2012, 10:42 PM
#8
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
It may be hard to find, but an 8th scale electric truggy would be great for your purposes. Nitro is common in 8th scale truggy, but not electric at this point, so if you WANT to learn Nitro engine tuning and the like, then this is definitely the way to go. Most places will also still let you run the truggies with 8th scale buggies outside if you hit a track at some point too and the class isn't running currently. The biggest difference in setup would be that you'd drop the ride height for a race and keep it up for your park bashing.
8th scale is larger, but the parts are typically a lot more durable as well, and also easier to work on due to size. While a bit more expensive than smaller scales, you don't go to the REALLY expensive 5th scale, which is also less fun to drive for most unless you have HUGE open spaces.
For any/all kits you'll at the very least want to invest in a good set of hex drivers (screwdrivers for alen wrench style). Depending on your kit, this may be metric or american standard sizes. Losi, Associated, and a few others sell a multi-size tool for this (I have the Losi) which work well. Once you get your kit I highly recommend also getting a MIP driver for the size you're most commonly working with in the kit, to simply things, give you a 2nd driver, and take most of the wear off of the multi-tool tip. When packing light, just take the multi-tool.
8th scale is larger, but the parts are typically a lot more durable as well, and also easier to work on due to size. While a bit more expensive than smaller scales, you don't go to the REALLY expensive 5th scale, which is also less fun to drive for most unless you have HUGE open spaces.
For any/all kits you'll at the very least want to invest in a good set of hex drivers (screwdrivers for alen wrench style). Depending on your kit, this may be metric or american standard sizes. Losi, Associated, and a few others sell a multi-size tool for this (I have the Losi) which work well. Once you get your kit I highly recommend also getting a MIP driver for the size you're most commonly working with in the kit, to simply things, give you a 2nd driver, and take most of the wear off of the multi-tool tip. When packing light, just take the multi-tool.
it looks like i will need some tools. regardless of the route i end up taking.
i won't be racing. the nearest track is a 45min drive for me. it isn't an option for regular use.
i don't have a nitro mentor. so i will have to learn on my own. yeah, my traxxas tmaxx sometimes is a bear to get running. i like the power of the nitro car. it runs on the grass pretty well.
i own a slash 4x4. when i run it on the grass, the batteries drain quick. less than 5mins quick.
i would buy another battery powered rc. they get up and move. the torque produced by some of them electric motors is just unreal.
if i understand correctly, regardless of which type i get, the electronics is sold separately? the servos, the hand held radio, the motor (electric models).
i'm a basher and will be looking to just putt around the park kicking up grass and dirt.
i started looking at youtube videos of different 1/8 scale cars. darn there are some great looking RC's out there.
some of the examples i saw:
losi 8ight
lst xxl
Kyosho DMT
inferno
rc8.2e
just some beautiful RC's
10-01-2012, 12:42 AM
#9
If you're looking at 8th scale buggy kits, the Tekno EB48 is worth a look too. Great instructions and the fit and finish of the parts is awesome. They also have amazing customer support.
For most, but not all, kit electrics, you'll need to get everything beyond the kit. There are often RTR's with so-so electronics in them, but then you aren't building a kit and often get slightly less quality parts too.
If you're going cheap, just get another receiver for a transmitter you have (Traxxas transmitters do support switching between vehicles, though it isn't obvious unless you read their manual). If not, go find a radio you like and get receivers for all your vehicles for it.
There are different types of batteries and capacities, etc. A typical 10th scale like the slash runs on 2s batteries while a typical 8th scale runs on 4s batteries. Bashing will often be 3s/6s respectively instead, as this allows for higher power/speed, but at the cost of more expensive batteries and more heat/shorter electronic life unless you set up for it initially.
Some examples of how vehicle type/weight affects run time:
My 2wd 1/10 short course will run 40ish minutes with a 5300mah 2s pack.
My 4wd 1/10 short course will run 12ish minutes with a 6600mah 2s pack.
My 4wd 1/8 buggy will run 15+ minutes with a 5000mah 4s pack (and have gobs more power and speed).
For most, but not all, kit electrics, you'll need to get everything beyond the kit. There are often RTR's with so-so electronics in them, but then you aren't building a kit and often get slightly less quality parts too.
If you're going cheap, just get another receiver for a transmitter you have (Traxxas transmitters do support switching between vehicles, though it isn't obvious unless you read their manual). If not, go find a radio you like and get receivers for all your vehicles for it.
There are different types of batteries and capacities, etc. A typical 10th scale like the slash runs on 2s batteries while a typical 8th scale runs on 4s batteries. Bashing will often be 3s/6s respectively instead, as this allows for higher power/speed, but at the cost of more expensive batteries and more heat/shorter electronic life unless you set up for it initially.
Some examples of how vehicle type/weight affects run time:
My 2wd 1/10 short course will run 40ish minutes with a 5300mah 2s pack.
My 4wd 1/10 short course will run 12ish minutes with a 6600mah 2s pack.
My 4wd 1/8 buggy will run 15+ minutes with a 5000mah 4s pack (and have gobs more power and speed).
10-01-2012, 02:13 AM
#10
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
If you're looking at 8th scale buggy kits, the Tekno EB48 is worth a look too. Great instructions and the fit and finish of the parts is awesome. They also have amazing customer support.
For most, but not all, kit electrics, you'll need to get everything beyond the kit. There are often RTR's with so-so electronics in them, but then you aren't building a kit and often get slightly less quality parts too.
If you're going cheap, just get another receiver for a transmitter you have (Traxxas transmitters do support switching between vehicles, though it isn't obvious unless you read their manual). If not, go find a radio you like and get receivers for all your vehicles for it.
There are different types of batteries and capacities, etc. A typical 10th scale like the slash runs on 2s batteries while a typical 8th scale runs on 4s batteries. Bashing will often be 3s/6s respectively instead, as this allows for higher power/speed, but at the cost of more expensive batteries and more heat/shorter electronic life unless you set up for it initially.
Some examples of how vehicle type/weight affects run time:
My 2wd 1/10 short course will run 40ish minutes with a 5300mah 2s pack.
My 4wd 1/10 short course will run 12ish minutes with a 6600mah 2s pack.
My 4wd 1/8 buggy will run 15+ minutes with a 5000mah 4s pack (and have gobs more power and speed).
For most, but not all, kit electrics, you'll need to get everything beyond the kit. There are often RTR's with so-so electronics in them, but then you aren't building a kit and often get slightly less quality parts too.
If you're going cheap, just get another receiver for a transmitter you have (Traxxas transmitters do support switching between vehicles, though it isn't obvious unless you read their manual). If not, go find a radio you like and get receivers for all your vehicles for it.
There are different types of batteries and capacities, etc. A typical 10th scale like the slash runs on 2s batteries while a typical 8th scale runs on 4s batteries. Bashing will often be 3s/6s respectively instead, as this allows for higher power/speed, but at the cost of more expensive batteries and more heat/shorter electronic life unless you set up for it initially.
Some examples of how vehicle type/weight affects run time:
My 2wd 1/10 short course will run 40ish minutes with a 5300mah 2s pack.
My 4wd 1/10 short course will run 12ish minutes with a 6600mah 2s pack.
My 4wd 1/8 buggy will run 15+ minutes with a 5000mah 4s pack (and have gobs more power and speed).
i run lipo batteries in my team associated buggy. i haven't run it on grass yet. only on solid ground or modest dirt. the batteries last about 40mins.
it seems when driving my slash 4x4 on grass, the grass seems to suck juice from a battery.
using my current radio controls for the new car would be cool. didn't know i could do that. i was under the impression that the radio control was "bonded" to one electronic controller.
see i'm learning already.
since i plan on using this as a basher, i want to build a quality car. i don't want to build a 'toy".
i want to be able to, when my project is built, fix broken parts on my car. right now, i'm a little unsure on what to do if anything breaks on my "ready to race" cars. i'm not bashing (
) ready to race cars. they are fantastic. i have a lot of fun with them. but a new person like myself doesn't really get the understanding of the workings in a RC car. i'd like to get to where i can feel comfortable replacing a shock, or a drive line. or upgrade something with a new part. i like the looks of the 1/8 scale buggies. and i like the go anywhere durability of the monster truck.
10-01-2012, 03:49 AM
#11
Tech Addict
what is a good kit for a beginer? (new to rc)
what is a better route to go for learning, electric or nitro?
should i invest in specialty tools? are they needed?
my goals in wanting to build a kit:
- to learn how to work on my own cars
- to have fun tinkering in my garage
pdx
what is a better route to go for learning, electric or nitro?
should i invest in specialty tools? are they needed?
my goals in wanting to build a kit:
- to learn how to work on my own cars
- to have fun tinkering in my garage
pdx
“learn how to work on my own cars” Either route electric or Nitro would be good. As long as you are building a true kit you will learn how it all goes together regardless of what it is.
“To have fun tinkering in my garage” This screams Nitro to me. I own both families of vehicles and the one I am tinkering with the most is nitro. The nitro engines require attention pretty regularly and come with a bit of a learning curve. Electric on the other hand is pretty much plug and play. Once you have it built and set up you run it, charge it and run it again. Another thing to consider here is how long you want to be able to run your car/truck. As long as you have fuel the nitro engine will run all day, just pull in squirt in some fuel and get back to it. Personally I prefer the nitro due to sound smell and noise!!! If you are looking to be a tinkerer Nitro is the way to go hands down.
“Should I invest in specialty tools?” Specialty not so much but a good set of tools will more than prove their worth. I have 7 builds and countless repairs on my Team Associated tools and they are still perfect. The number one thing in RC is you get what you pay for. A good set of tools is a must for us tinkerers!
“what is a good kit for a beginner?” Monster Trucks do well in grass but they are awful in the handling department. Also the Monster Truck class is no more race wise (at least around here) so if you have any desire to race they will do you no good. You mentioned buggy also. Buggies are awesome race bread off road machines. With that being said they aren’t that great in grass… Maybe we should put them together Truggy, the best of both worlds. The speed and precision of a buggy mixed with the terrain dominating traits of the Monster Trucks. Tuggies are by far my favorite for bashing. All that being said this is what Id go with if I were you.
http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/861/
Here is why. Being a basher but a new basher you want that extra durability of a monster truck. The Savage X is the toughest hands down. Lets say you get way crazy and end up breaking something which is really rare. If it is plastic get the RPM replacement and forget it ever happened. RPM is any bashers favorite for plastics. The 4.6 that comes with this kit is really easy to tune in and will only require tuning as the motor breaks in. Yes you can tune every time you run like I do but it is not necessary since you aren’t shooting for max rpm in a race engine. The Savage sells itself just throw it into youtube. Enjoy!
Last edited by TerribleTy; 10-01-2012 at 04:08 AM.
10-01-2012, 06:00 AM
#12
thank you all for the input.
it looks like i will need some tools. regardless of the route i end up taking.
i won't be racing. the nearest track is a 45min drive for me. it isn't an option for regular use.
i don't have a nitro mentor. so i will have to learn on my own. yeah, my traxxas tmaxx sometimes is a bear to get running. i like the power of the nitro car. it runs on the grass pretty well.
i own a slash 4x4. when i run it on the grass, the batteries drain quick. less than 5mins quick.
i would buy another battery powered rc. they get up and move. the torque produced by some of them electric motors is just unreal.
if i understand correctly, regardless of which type i get, the electronics is sold separately? the servos, the hand held radio, the motor (electric models).
i'm a basher and will be looking to just putt around the park kicking up grass and dirt.
i started looking at youtube videos of different 1/8 scale cars. darn there are some great looking RC's out there.
some of the examples i saw:
losi 8ight
lst xxl
Kyosho DMT
inferno
rc8.2e
just some beautiful RC's
it looks like i will need some tools. regardless of the route i end up taking.
i won't be racing. the nearest track is a 45min drive for me. it isn't an option for regular use.
i don't have a nitro mentor. so i will have to learn on my own. yeah, my traxxas tmaxx sometimes is a bear to get running. i like the power of the nitro car. it runs on the grass pretty well.
i own a slash 4x4. when i run it on the grass, the batteries drain quick. less than 5mins quick.
i would buy another battery powered rc. they get up and move. the torque produced by some of them electric motors is just unreal.
if i understand correctly, regardless of which type i get, the electronics is sold separately? the servos, the hand held radio, the motor (electric models).
i'm a basher and will be looking to just putt around the park kicking up grass and dirt.
i started looking at youtube videos of different 1/8 scale cars. darn there are some great looking RC's out there.
some of the examples i saw:
losi 8ight
lst xxl
Kyosho DMT
inferno
rc8.2e
just some beautiful RC's
10-01-2012, 06:33 AM
#13
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
dang, the Savage X SS is a great looking monster truck. i youtube'd the name and found some nice videos of it in action.
10-01-2012, 06:36 AM
#14
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
people seem to agree that hpi and losi are durable.
later today, i am going to my local hobby shop to see what parts they carry. i will take a look at the tool sets they have too.
if i end up with a kit that i have to order parts for online that is okay too.
10-12-2012, 01:48 AM
#15
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
well, i think i found the kit to be my first.
i'm looking at the axial wraith rock racer kit.
one thing....
i went into my local hobby shop and asked about kits in general. he said most kits will have some challenges. but the biggest hurdle for most people is... soldering.
i am not a skilled soldering person. so i purchased some traxxas connectors and deans connectors and some 12 awg wire.
i picked up a bottom shelf soldering iron from radio shack and some 0.022 rosin core solder.
my first four sets of plugs are terrible. functionally bad and they look even worse. on my best attempt, i was able to get a couple of wires soldered to the metal pins but couldn't get them to fit into the connector. either too much solder and connector doesn't fit or too little and the thing falls apart with the first test.
the 40w iron has small a pencil tip. i went back to radio shack to see about a chisel tip and there isn't any for the bottom of the line model iron i purchased.
so, my next question is:
what is a good soldering iron?
what is a good solder/flux combo?
do i need flux?
i won't get a kit until i can solder these plugs without issue. i don't see any point really until i get this basic skill down. because i understand that eventually you have to solder the wires to the motor and to other components of the assembly. if i can't solder a plug then i can't expect to solder any thing else in the kit either.
thank you all for your help and input.
one soldering station i was looking at was:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXATBK&P=ML
the tk-950 soldering station. cost is roughly between $80 - $120 usd.
i hear weller brand soldering stations are good too.
i'm looking at the axial wraith rock racer kit.
one thing....
i went into my local hobby shop and asked about kits in general. he said most kits will have some challenges. but the biggest hurdle for most people is... soldering.
i am not a skilled soldering person. so i purchased some traxxas connectors and deans connectors and some 12 awg wire.
i picked up a bottom shelf soldering iron from radio shack and some 0.022 rosin core solder.
my first four sets of plugs are terrible. functionally bad and they look even worse. on my best attempt, i was able to get a couple of wires soldered to the metal pins but couldn't get them to fit into the connector. either too much solder and connector doesn't fit or too little and the thing falls apart with the first test.
the 40w iron has small a pencil tip. i went back to radio shack to see about a chisel tip and there isn't any for the bottom of the line model iron i purchased.
so, my next question is:
what is a good soldering iron?
what is a good solder/flux combo?
do i need flux?
i won't get a kit until i can solder these plugs without issue. i don't see any point really until i get this basic skill down. because i understand that eventually you have to solder the wires to the motor and to other components of the assembly. if i can't solder a plug then i can't expect to solder any thing else in the kit either.
thank you all for your help and input.
one soldering station i was looking at was:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXATBK&P=ML
the tk-950 soldering station. cost is roughly between $80 - $120 usd.
i hear weller brand soldering stations are good too.
Last edited by pdx; 10-12-2012 at 04:00 AM. Reason: added link