newbrc

iTrader: (2)

It took me a while to get the hang of soldering. Now I have the opposite problem. I need to remove the wires from my Tekin RX8 and put new ones on. Does anyone have any specific tricks to make this easier?

I was just going to heat up the solder and see if I can tap it on the bench to get the solder to roll off.

Or, are the posts on the RX8 replaceable?

Any help is much appreciated.

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

Don't worry about getting all the solder off.

Heat the wire side while the rx8 is held down (rubber vice, servo tape to workbench, etc). While heating each wire at the joint, use a pair of needle nose pliers (or anything that won't melt really) to gently pull the wire away from the rx8. As soon as the solder liquifies, that gentle pressure will pull the wire off of the posts, along with the heat source, and everything will be perfectly reusable...basically with both sides tinned.

Repeat for each wire.

scottmen

iTrader: (2)

There is this stuff called solder wick. It works great. You just heat the wick like you are soldering it the post and it just sucks it up.

They sell it at radio shack.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062744

newbrc

iTrader: (2)

Both awesome recommendations. I will try it first without the wick. If I struggle, I will pick some up tomorrow. Thanks again guys.

blis

+1
Goots wicks are handy.

ironzgti35

iTrader: (33)

What about a solder sucker? not sure if they would work on a large post like the RX8 but they do a great job on small boards. I was going to swap my tekin wires out for Dean wet noodles and figured the solder would just serve as a pre-tin to the new wires

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

Master the "heat and flick" method and you won't need any gadgets.

Doing it on the carpet or kitchen table is ill advised though ..

Jtipsy

iTrader: (11)

Stick with the tekin wire for the rx8 the wet noodles dont fit as well as the tekin wire does.

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

LOL I do the heat and flick and when people see it they are blown away, it's the only way I know...
also to get the solder to flow don't keep adding solder, use a little flux and it will flow like water and "tap" right off.

newbrc

iTrader: (2)

Just tried the "heat and flick". All solder is off and new wires are on. Thanks for the help and recommendations.

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Please show me/us how to do the heat and flick method. Better with video.
Want to learn something new.

newbrc

iTrader: (2)

I should probably rephrase my previous post. I used MY interpretation of the "heat and flick." Not sure it is too video worthy yet Basically, I heated the solder up until it was in a liquid form, then tapped or "flicked" the speed control and the solder came right off (on to my finger. OUCH) But I got the hang of it by the time I was done with the ESC.

ziggy1013

iTrader: (6)

could somebody post a video of this pls.

chucko

iTrader: (3)

most soldering irons when cleaned will suck up a little of whats left on to the iron. just don't let it sit there and cook the speed control. a wet sponge works great. tinning the iron helps make it faster to remove wires.. radio shack has braided wire that sucks it off when used. then I take a small dremel and do a small cleaning with a good grinding tip then re tin. dont be in a hurry. let the speed control cool down for 10 min on each post or it could do damage to the inside and there is a video on elect off road page on how to solder and clean its great .