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beginner RC builder

Old 06-12-2012, 07:04 PM
  #16  
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The most important tools quality wise are the allen/hex drivers. The other tools, nut drivers and such are usually less critical. I think the Dynamite red handled drivers are a good value. Not saying they are the best, but good enough for a good start and more reasonable in cost. Taking some time while driving the screws, keeping the wrench straight, will help a lot too.

Thread lock is generally only for screws that go into metal, not plastic. Can actually attack some plastics if Iím not mistaken.

Yes, paint the inside of the body. Protects the paint some from crash damage, the body adds a sheen to the look. Color wise paint dark colors first, then light colors. Other wise any dark overspray ruins the light paint. Paint lightly, too heavy and it canít flex with the body and will tend to flake off, leave it opaque some when viewed up close in good light. Use some shoe goo or tape to protect the paint on the inside where it might rub against the chassis and stuff.

Sounds like you are the perfect candidate for a build, good luck and enjoy! (Only dumb question is the one you don't ask.)
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave H View Post
The most important tools quality wise are the allen/hex drivers. The other tools, nut drivers and such are usually less critical. I think the Dynamite red handled drivers are a good value. Not saying they are the best, but good enough for a good start and more reasonable in cost. Taking some time while driving the screws, keeping the wrench straight, will help a lot too.

Thread lock is generally only for screws that go into metal, not plastic. Can actually attack some plastics if Iím not mistaken.

Yes, paint the inside of the body. Protects the paint some from crash damage, the body adds a sheen to the look. Color wise paint dark colors first, then light colors. Other wise any dark overspray ruins the light paint. Paint lightly, too heavy and it canít flex with the body and will tend to flake off, leave it opaque some when viewed up close in good light. Use some shoe goo or tape to protect the paint on the inside where it might rub against the chassis and stuff.

Sounds like you are the perfect candidate for a build, good luck and enjoy! (Only dumb question is the one you don't ask.)
I totally agree with that last statement this is why I have 302 posts and I joined in fubuary it can't hurt to ask if your confused just ask!
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:06 PM
  #18  
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First off, congrats on getting into the hobby! I've been in it on and off since the mid 80's. I remember when the Avante came out. It was Tamiya's first serious 4wd car. Should be a fun build! I am fully in favor of getting into the hobby by building up a kit, rather than buying a Ready To Run package. We didn't have RTR kits back when I started and I feel like a lot of the people today are missing a huge experience by not building up their own ride. You learn so much about tuning it and how it all works together. When something eventually breaks (and it will) you will already know how to repair it, since you've done it already!

I agree with the others.... take your time. If you get stuck ask questions. Quality tools will help, for sure. Looking at the kit on Tamiya's site, it looks like a motor and speed control are included. You just need to supply a radio, receiver, and steering servo.

For your first build, I agree with the recommendations for Spektrum. Futaba and Airtronics are also very respectable brands for radio controller gear. So comparison shop with radio options from them too. They make nice stuff. You could go a little more inexpensive though then the Spektrum stuff, if you don't plan on racing. Here are some things to look for:

If you plan on racing, get a 2.4ghz radio. Radios that broadcast on this frequency share a unique code with the receiver. So you never conflict with anyone elses gear. On the other hand, you could get an AM radio and save a bunch of money. The only downside is that with an AM radio you are locked in to broadcasting on a single channel. If someone else at the track or in the neighborhood is on your channel you will both experience interference. Either way, the working range on both radios will be about the same - as will the features. I'd step up to a 2.4ghz radio if you will race, to avoid problems at the track. Otherwise I'd save yourself some money and get an AM one.

This is a good beginner AM radio under $50 bucks if you plan to do primarily neighborhood or park bashing with your car.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXASX2**&P=7

On the other hand, a radio is something that a lot of people will say to buy the best most expensive one you can get right away, since it will last through your whole R/C career. That thinking is true. Radios can be used with multiple cars and will last forever. If you're sure the hobby is for you, and you're not just dipping your toes in the water, then maybe starting off with a high end radio is for you.

I'm really fond of this computer radio. It's not too spendy, but it's really nice:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXRL8&P=ML

You'll also need a battery charger and some packs. I'd recommend using 6 cell NiMH packs to a beginner. LiPo batteries require some extra care and handling and a computer charger along with knowledge of charge rates, which is just one more thing for you to learn. If you want to get that right away, thats certainly fine. You'll probably want them eventually, but for a greenhorn I'd start a little more basic.

This charger and maybe 2 or 3 of these battery packs would be great.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTCJ8&P=ML

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXUP0&P=ML

No matter what, you're gonna have some fun! There will always be more expensive gear to buy, and a ton of upgrades always available. New cars come along to tempt your wallet all the time Remember that the #1 upgrade is free. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. The guy at the track who wins is the one who makes sure he isn't hitting the walls or flipping on jumps or rolling on the turns, not the one that spent the most money. Consistent laps = more laps = more wins!
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Old 06-13-2012, 06:14 PM
  #19  
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I've heard the spektrum DX3C is nice
http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...ProdID=SPM3300
If that is a heavy car try this Brushless out
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...inder_sct.html
If it is light try this both available for 140 bucks
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...inder_sv2.html
Savox servos are supposed to be good
http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SC1258...vsc1258tg.html
Duratrax onyx things are supposed to be good value
http://www.hobbywarehouse.com/DTXDTXC1864-GP
http://www.hobbywarehouse.com/Onyx-2...-Balancing-LCD
These will save you a lot of frustration
http://www.cowrc.com/#ecwid:mode=cart
This will be helpful with gearing
http://www.nitrorcx.com/72p-b7078-themometer.html
BE SAFE WITH LIPOS!
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN1400

Once again have fun and Welcome if you get frustrated don't give up on it!
Wow I didn't know I could post that many links LOL
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:12 PM
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thanks alot guys.
i appreciate all the suport.
I am definitely going to run into trouble when I begin building, and I will sure plat questions along the way.
this is surely different from those gundam model kits i used to build.




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Old 06-14-2012, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by clayrebel View Post
thanks alot guys.
i appreciate all the suport.
I am definitely going to run into trouble when I begin building, and I will sure plat questions along the way.
this is surely different from those gundam model kits i used to build.




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There is so much difference you have a driveline electronics etc and I know this is off topic but what scale models do you build I was on a kick for those rebel snaps a few years ago I liked them but they weren't as durable as. I thought lol
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Old 06-14-2012, 07:13 PM
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I used to build the 1/100 scales and up. but I became tired of the snap kits and moved on to building those resin kits made by G-system.
I always had an interest in building electronic kits but was too intimidated. (those wires/ gears & circuitry seemed complicated.)

I won't start building until I can commit fully to this project, which could be weeks.
and I certainly don't want to rush things, especially since I've spent $500 on just the RC kit. (I still have to purchase the radio control & battery, yikes).






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Old 06-19-2012, 03:03 PM
  #23  
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How are you making out?
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