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How to determine mesh space?

How to determine mesh space?

Old 06-08-2012, 08:35 AM
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Default How to determine mesh space?

I have a RB5 and during practice the spur melted on 2 quick successions. I use the wedge-a-piece-of-paper between the spur and pinion method, but fellow drivers said this is too loose.

So how should I determine the correct mesh? Thanks,
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:04 AM
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It depends on the paper you use if you want to use that trick. Personally I do 2 things when I set mine, which has worked really well so far...cram it in and back it out a tad. This is a bit more of a full set though to help you get it right.

1) Jam it as tight as possible, but don't tighten the screws down all the way.
2) turn the spur manually and slowly for a couple rotations to see if it has any spot that binds more than others or not (if it does, replace).
3) back the pinion out just a hair (less than the thickness of most paper, more close to tissue paper).
4) Tighten adjustment screws.

At this point, I'll do a really slow powered spin for a few rotations to make sure nothing is binding up badly. Once I stop it, I'll push the car a little forward and back to make sure there is no chatter of the gears. Then, I'll slowly ramp the speed up a bit (all while on a stand and held with wheels free) to make sure the car runs neutral without excess binding. Lastly I'll do a few speed bursts to hard brakes to make sure nothing slips or causes undue chatter.

If you want to see how gears react at different points, cram it all the way tight and tighten it down. Do a little bit of power so you see what "too tight" is like and know what to look for on the checks above. Just don't run this way or do more than a few revolutions this way, as you don't want to be putting this kind of stress on the motor (it is not only extra drag, but extra angular force). When mesh is correct, your car should be at its quietest for both acceleration and braking.
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by gelshocker
I have a RB5 and during practice the spur melted on 2 quick successions. I use the wedge-a-piece-of-paper between the spur and pinion method, but fellow drivers said this is too loose.

So how should I determine the correct mesh? Thanks,

Seeing it helps to clarify.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dmm5hQBfAyQ
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:32 PM
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I do mine by feel. Not with paper or eyeballing. I set mine with just the tiniest amount of play and make sure it still moves freely. I Have been running the same spurs for over a year.
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by gelshocker
I have a RB5 and during practice the spur melted on 2 quick successions. I use the wedge-a-piece-of-paper between the spur and pinion method, but fellow drivers said this is too loose.

So how should I determine the correct mesh? Thanks,
Also ensure engine mounts are cleaned and tight. For me most my strips were caused by the engine moving.
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:58 PM
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Thanks guys, will practice the advice. Cheers,
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Old 06-09-2012, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by gelshocker
Thanks guys, will practice the advice. Cheers,
Somthing a friend showed me when I was learning was to take a pinion 1 tooth above what you plan to use, cram it agenst the gear and tighten the motor down, then remove the pinion and install the one you plan to use and its just about perfect. It will give you an idea at least where it should be
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Old 06-09-2012, 03:08 PM
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Best way, IMO, have a seasoned hobbyist/racer set it, see/feel how it's set and duplicate in the future.
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by LMRacing
Somthing a friend showed me when I was learning was to take a pinion 1 tooth above what you plan to use, cram it agenst the gear and tighten the motor down, then remove the pinion and install the one you plan to use and its just about perfect. It will give you an idea at least where it should be
I'll agree with this. I was taught this trick 20 something years ago and its just about perfect. The paper trick will work also. And I think the best way is to do it by feel. And using the size up pinion trick will give u a good feel for about where u wanna be. You're just looking for a tick of play.
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:02 AM
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This is twice now that justpoet has responded to a question and I have to agree totally with his answer!

I don't do the paper trick (try getting a piece of paper between the spur and pinion on a Xray T3 chassis!). But just as justpoet described will get you in the right spot everytime. Turning the gears to insure that the mesh is correct all the way around is important. You shouldn't notice any issues with quality gearing, but I once tried a $2 Traxxas pinion when I was in a rush and the out of round mesh was pretty noticable.

Good luck!
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:26 PM
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I know this thread hasn't been active for a bit but I thought I'd add my 2c.

I learned a while back how to set my mesh by sound. Since I was a machinist for my last job I found it easier than going by feel. There's a video somewhere on the URC site but here's the basic procedure.

1- Put the car up on a block or car stand.
2- Loosen the motor screws and tighten up the mesh all the way.
3- Turn everything on and give the car about 15-20% throttle and listen to the sound. If it sounds all grindy you need to back the mesh out a little. Keep slowing backing it out until the sound is very smooth.
4- After you find the sweet spot tighten up the motor screws
5- While making sure the car isn't going to take off I like to bring the throttle up to 50-60% and make sure it still sounds smooth.

This has worked for me in every situation, no matter if your car is 4wd, 2wd, buggy or truck, metal spur or plastic.
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:06 AM
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great info.. will try.
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Old 08-02-2012, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Hack-N-Slash
I know this thread hasn't been active for a bit but I thought I'd add my 2c.

I learned a while back how to set my mesh by sound. Since I was a machinist for my last job I found it easier than going by feel. There's a video somewhere on the URC site but here's the basic procedure.

1- Put the car up on a block or car stand.
2- Loosen the motor screws and tighten up the mesh all the way.
3- Turn everything on and give the car about 15-20% throttle and listen to the sound. If it sounds all grindy you need to back the mesh out a little. Keep slowing backing it out until the sound is very smooth.
4- After you find the sweet spot tighten up the motor screws
5- While making sure the car isn't going to take off I like to bring the throttle up to 50-60% and make sure it still sounds smooth.

This has worked for me in every situation, no matter if your car is 4wd, 2wd, buggy or truck, metal spur or plastic.
Thanks. I've gathered that after setup, I should gently run the car to check if it runs 'smooth'. So I'll make note it should both look and sound smooth. Great tips much appreciated. Cheers,
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:29 PM
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Great info. Thanks everyone.
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Old 10-08-2013, 08:13 PM
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Although it was hinted at this wasn't said outright. Spur gears are not neccassarliy round. Some are so bad I won't use them. So you need check to find the tight spot. The loose spot is not a concern (unless the gear is football shaped) Turn the spur with your finger a little bit at a time, every little bit rock the spur back and forth with your finger and feel the "slop". So you are turning a little and rocking it back and forth a little and feeling the slop.... go around to find the tight spot. Mark the spot. The more out of round it is the more time and attention you will need to spend. Go around the gear several times if you have to. (this is when you remind yourself to buy the "good" brand) Once you have that done you are golden.
So it's on the vehicle. Motor screws slightly loose. Teeth engaged..... So as you rock the spur gear at the tightest spot you will "feel" that slop and hear it as well. So how tight should the mesh be ? not too tight or too loose duh. yea maybe the thickness of paper but if you just put a piece of paper in there and push them together it covers several teeth and usually ends up being too loose. The thickness of paper in one tooth maybe... you need a little but almost as little as you can get. Once you think you nailed it, do the quiet test by running the motor. If it's too loose it will be loud, but it also makes a sound when it's too tight (whiny). So go for the quiet. Then as racer1812 said have a pro check it. Probably good to go.
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