Ironwolf1974

iTrader: (6)

This thing pulls HARD to the left at high speeds, and can be seen a little on low speeds. IVe adjusted the steering on the controller, but it has to be in the 40 to 50% Right adjust to help. Even then it still starts to veer left or right almost randomnly.

Should I just buy another servo? Ive taken the servo horn off, set the servo to middle and then put horn back on. I then had to adjust the turnbuckle to as close to middle as possible. It STILL trys to veer.

Also the stock servo seems a little on the weak slow side.

This is my first ever 1./8th buggy so any help is highly appreciated.

Its got CRAZY speed and power, nothing at all wrong there. And seems tough as nails.

I was looking at this servo:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...eel-Gear-Servo

Rock333

iTrader: (51)

99.9% of all RTR servo's are junk. So it would never hurt to upgrade. Now the saver issue that you talk about I have heard of from using the old style servos like they still use on 1/10 oval cars but never in a 1/8. A lot of times in 1/8 if the saver is worn out or to loose it can cause trouble in the turns and landings but never seen one that continues to veer like you describe. The only way I can see that happening is of the servo horn is stripped and spinning on the servo drive gear or the servo itself is just crap like most RTR servos. Also try running some toe-in, 0 toe or 1-3% toe out will also make the car veer.

Ironwolf1974

iTrader: (6)

The servo was indeed loose in the housing, so I tighted it up. Reset it up and I still cant get it to go straight. It veers hard left, then if I put enough adjust into the controller it still veers a little left, or a little right. It seems like the tunability just isnt there.

Can you recommend a good servo to use?

ww29

iTrader: (15)

throw the servo it came with in the garbage. get your self one with atleast 145oz torq. also run 1 degree toe out in front. i have the mp777 and the inferno ve race spec was built off the 7.5 and 777 buggys if u need setup help send me pm

Ironwolf1974

iTrader: (6)

Gotcha. So I need to look at Torque and not care to much about response time? I cant find specs for this servo that came with the RTR.

I finally figured out how to fix the problem. It goes pretty much straight now, but I still not sure I like this stock servo. Gonna go to my LHS and see what they have or order something.

How to figure out Toe out? It came with at least 3 degrees I would say by eyeballing it. I pulled that in, there is some Toe Out now and it runs alot straighter, but I dont have like a setup board or anything to measure it.

ww29

iTrader: (15)

i will get a measurement for you so u can run same toe out i do. the person u bought it off of didnt have the toe setup right

Ironwolf1974

iTrader: (6)

Thanks to Steve, mike, Sam, chuck at my lhs they got me running. Then I proceeded to destroy the thing. Rear hinge pins, both suspension braces and front hub carrier stripped.

Basically the thing is falling apart. But it was oh so much fun!

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

As long as you had fun while making yourself need replacement parts, tis all good. Now you get the fun of replacing/upgrading things so you can do it again!

Ironwolf1974

iTrader: (6)

Yeah but now have to wait for shipping gah! lol

So I have taken apart the front end, and when I took off the A Arm holder, there is a set of greased gears, Im guessing the front differential? Do I need to regrease it, or put something in there?

Ive been reading about the Losi SCTE and everyone keeps talking about oil they put in, or grease like 5k/5k/2k type of thing. What is that all about? Do I need to worry about with my Kyosho buggy?

Rock333

iTrader: (51)

There is oil inside the diff along with the spider gears. Yes you need to check it every once in a while because the oil breaks down or if the diff is leaking it empties out. It is a silicon type of fluid so make sure when you get some that it is for diffs. If you take out the 4 screws you will be able to open the diff case. If it looks black or is empty then clean it out with brake cleaner and put in new fluid. just don't fill it completely full usually just to the top of the spider gears is good.

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

Depending on how far you're taking it apart, which you'll want to look at.
If you're just opening up the diff case, you'll see a pinion from your drive shaft and a ring gear that mates to it on your diff. These just need a small amount of grease on them, not the whole thing packed full of sludge like the factory likes to make it.

If you're talking about opening up the diff itself, the factory likes to have grease there too, and you'll find a bunch of smaller gears. This is the part that we clean the grease out of and then use different weights of oil to tune how tight the diff action is.

For further details, check in the offroad forums and find your specific car, and search there for tips on adjusting or rebuilding your diff.

Ironwolf1974

iTrader: (6)

As of right now the diffs and gears and tranny still feel really solid, so not going to mess with it just yet. From what I can see there is no leakage.

I basically have to rebuild the front and back ends though. Several hinge pins are bent and have to replace an A Arm or two. The shock towers are both badly bent.

The front hubs are stripped.

All in all I dunno what to think. This is all jsut from 4 packs through practicing on my local track. A little disappointed in the quality.

Performance is outstanding, mind you probably lose that on the rebuild haha!

I Wheelie A LOT

iTrader: (15)

I have a Kyosho Inferno VE Race Spec as well, and i change the Differential oil about 5 times a month...Is that bad or too much? The Shock towers suck, period. But that can easily be replaced by CNC Shock Towers. They cost a lot (About 40 bucks), but are crazy durable. I myself have stripped the front hubs, but i replaced the bolts with stainless steel ones. The Buggy has phillips screws everywhere, but i got the Stainless Steel Screw kit for the Inferno, and changed everything to Allen heads. IMO, the arms are pretty durable, I've owned one for about 6 months now and i haven't replaced an arm yet. This buggy is good, but needs more upgrades to be Awesome!

Ironwolf1974

iTrader: (6)

Im shelving mine for now. Even though I upgraded the shock towers, and yes the A Arms front and back are just beast, they WILL NOT BREAK lol.

Ive had to replace parts, the front hubs have stripped twice now and its just plain twice as heavy as any other 1/8 buggy.

I know my driving style, or lack thereof has alot to do with it. But also it breaks with me just doing slow, no big jump driving.

Ive ordered a Losi Eight-E 2.0, which my LHS has a ton of parts and drivers, so hopefully this will help me out.

On a Kyosho Inferno note though, once you get new shock towers, which is a absolute must - Put a screw and washer into the top screw that holds the shock on. It sucks to do a nice jump but then your shock pops off.