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Thinking about getting back into R/C buggy racing and need lots of advice

Thinking about getting back into R/C buggy racing and need lots of advice

Old 03-14-2012, 01:14 PM
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Default Thinking about getting back into R/C buggy racing and need lots of advice

I raced 2wd buggy about 10-12 years ago back when B3s were brand new. I am thinking about getting back into RC again, but as I'm sure all of you know things couldn't be more different.

I've decided I'm getting an AE b4.1 worlds, but beyond that things get a little hazy.

Here are some of the questions I have(I know some of these answers are in other places, but I'd like to be able to respond to individuals):

1. Motor and ESC -
The owner of the local race track recommended that if I decide to start racing to begin in the 17.5T class. If that is best, which motor and ESC will last me through the learning curve and make me competitive once I move beyond practicing?

I'm on a pretty tight budget, yet I do not like having to upgrade constantly either. Is it worth putting 250-300 dollars into a ESC/motor combo off right of the bat? Seems like Tekin, LPR and Team Orion are favored?

2. Charger -
My hobby shop recommended a Racer's Edge SureCharge charger. Seems expensive, but from what I've read about charging and maintaining Lipos this isn't something to skimp on. I know nothing about chargers beyond peak detection and balance are necessities.

3. Servo -
These suckers seem to vary from 5 dollars to 200. Like I said I hate upgrading things over and over, so is a nice digital servo worth the 70-100 bucks for a beginner? People have recommended Savox 1258 or Associated 1015.

4. Batteries -
I've been told everyone uses 5000mAh 7.4V batteries. Again the hobby shop recommended 20-30C discharge rates. He said this is the "initial punch you get and they all max out about the same." Is this true or do I need to move up a tear to 60C? He also said 2 batteries would be plenty for one car. What are the charge times like now?

5. Radio -
I'm all over the place on this one. Expensive radios like the DX3r or MT-4 with telemetry and a million other features seem really cool, but will this stuff actually improve my driving eventually? I only plan on having one car for the foreseeable future, so 20 receiver memory isn't something I'll use. The only things that seems to be appealing is the temp monitors and faster response times. Worth it?

I may be coming off like I expect my equipment to make the car go fast and win races, but that's not my real frame of mind. Like I said earlier, I just don't want to (and can't afford) have a bunch of sub par parts sitting around in a few months. I'll probably practice 3-4 times a month once I get going, so I'm hoping I'll have a steep learning curve.

Help be figure out how to stay happy for a year! Quite the ramble, but thanks for all your help in advance!!
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:03 PM
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Answers in red below.



Originally Posted by InfamousJon
I raced 2wd buggy about 10-12 years ago back when B3s were brand new. I am thinking about getting back into RC again, but as I'm sure all of you know things couldn't be more different.

I've decided I'm getting an AE b4.1 worlds, but beyond that things get a little hazy.

Here are some of the questions I have(I know some of these answers are in other places, but I'd like to be able to respond to individuals):

1. Motor and ESC -
The owner of the local race track recommended that if I decide to start racing to begin in the 17.5T class. If that is best, which motor and ESC will last me through the learning curve and make me competitive once I move beyond practicing? Tekin RS, Revtech 17.5 The Revtech is the fastest 17.5 motor you can buy, with the most available end bell timing

I'm on a pretty tight budget, yet I do not like having to upgrade constantly either. Is it worth putting 250-300 dollars into a ESC/motor combo off right of the bat? Seems like Tekin, LPR and Team Orion are favored?

2. Charger -
My hobby shop recommended a Racer's Edge SureCharge charger. Seems expensive, but from what I've read about charging and maintaining Lipos this isn't something to skimp on. I know nothing about chargers beyond peak detection and balance are necessities. You can go to Hobbypartz.com and spend $40 or $50 on a charger and it will be fine.

3. Servo -
These suckers seem to vary from 5 dollars to 200. Like I said I hate upgrading things over and over, so is a nice digital servo worth the 70-100 bucks for a beginner? People have recommended Savox 1258 or Associated 1015.Both servos listed will work good for you, but Savox servos are very power hungry you may need to run a glitch buster with it.

4. Batteries -
I've been told everyone uses 5000mAh 7.4V batteries. Again the hobby shop recommended 20-30C discharge rates. He said this is the "initial punch you get and they all max out about the same." Is this true or do I need to move up a tear to 60C? He also said 2 batteries would be plenty for one car. What are the charge times like now? What are the charge times like now? 5000mAh is more than enough for racing, I run 4000mAh Shorty batteries and I can run 2 6 min heat on 1 charge. 2 batteries is fine you can charge in around 30to 45 mins or so. I wouldn't go below 25C you will want the punch power, if you can afford it go for 60C batteries.

5. Radio -
I'm all over the place on this one. Expensive radios like the DX3r or MT-4 with telemetry and a million other features seem really cool, but will this stuff actually improve my driving eventually? I only plan on having one car for the foreseeable future, so 20 receiver memory isn't something I'll use. The only things that seems to be appealing is the temp monitors and faster response times. Worth it? I run Futaba 3PM-X for about $170 its loaded with goodies, Spektrum is also good.

I may be coming off like I expect my equipment to make the car go fast and win races, but that's not my real frame of mind. Like I said earlier, I just don't want to (and can't afford) have a bunch of sub par parts sitting around in a few months. I'll probably practice 3-4 times a month once I get going, so I'm hoping I'll have a steep learning curve.

Help be figure out how to stay happy for a year! Quite the ramble, but thanks for all your help in advance!!
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:14 PM
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Heres another go at your questions. in red below.

Originally Posted by InfamousJon
I raced 2wd buggy about 10-12 years ago back when B3s were brand new. I am thinking about getting back into RC again, but as I'm sure all of you know things couldn't be more different.

I've decided I'm getting an AE b4.1 worlds, but beyond that things get a little hazy.

Nice car

Here are some of the questions I have(I know some of these answers are in other places, but I'd like to be able to respond to individuals):

1. Motor and ESC -
The owner of the local race track recommended that if I decide to start racing to begin in the 17.5T class. If that is best, which motor and ESC will last me through the learning curve and make me competitive once I move beyond practicing?

I'm on a pretty tight budget, yet I do not like having to upgrade constantly either. Is it worth putting 250-300 dollars into a ESC/motor combo off right of the bat? Seems like Tekin, LPR and Team Orion are favored?

If you are going to ride "blinky" then just get something cheap to start with, it will take you a long way and you wont cry too much when you kill it one way or the other.

Other than that I have come to really like Hobbywings XERUN ESC line. They dont cost a fortune and they are quite competetive.


2. Charger -
My hobby shop recommended a Racer's Edge SureCharge charger. Seems expensive, but from what I've read about charging and maintaining Lipos this isn't something to skimp on. I know nothing about chargers beyond peak detection and balance are necessities.

There are a few schools of thought on this one.
You can eigther get a few of the cheap ones and be able to charge several batteries at the same time, or you can splash out the dough to get something that will last a long time and perform well.

The cheap ones are not very advanced in their programming, but with battery prices being so low these days some will not mind having to buy new ones more often.

I prefer the quality chargers simply for the peace of mind. They are less likely to cause a fire in your home.
My personal choice is Hyperion chargers:
http://media.hyperion.hk/dn/


3. Servo -
These suckers seem to vary from 5 dollars to 200. Like I said I hate upgrading things over and over, so is a nice digital servo worth the 70-100 bucks for a beginner? People have recommended Savox 1258 or Associated 1015.

When it comes to servoes im relegious: Hitec
Hitec makes servoes in so many qualities and price classes that you can spend as much or as little as you like and still get a good deal.


4. Batteries -
I've been told everyone uses 5000mAh 7.4V batteries. Again the hobby shop recommended 20-30C discharge rates. He said this is the "initial punch you get and they all max out about the same." Is this true or do I need to move up a tear to 60C? He also said 2 batteries would be plenty for one car. What are the charge times like now?

Any battery that can deliver >25C should do it for you.
Try hobbyking


5. Radio -
I'm all over the place on this one. Expensive radios like the DX3r or MT-4 with telemetry and a million other features seem really cool, but will this stuff actually improve my driving eventually? I only plan on having one car for the foreseeable future, so 20 receiver memory isn't something I'll use. The only things that seems to be appealing is the temp monitors and faster response times. Worth it?

These days you can get a nice 2.4GHz radio for almost no money at all. Go with one that fits your hand.
Forget about telemetry, its mostly wrong and you dont have the time to look at it when racing anyway.
I bought the Futaba 3PL
It comes with an understandable menu, 10 model memory and a reasonable price tag.


I may be coming off like I expect my equipment to make the car go fast and win races, but that's not my real frame of mind. Like I said earlier, I just don't want to (and can't afford) have a bunch of sub par parts sitting around in a few months. I'll probably practice 3-4 times a month once I get going, so I'm hoping I'll have a steep learning curve.

Help be figure out how to stay happy for a year! Quite the ramble, but thanks for all your help in advance!!
These are my opinions, please understand that no matter how well prepared you are, you will end up buying a few items that you will regret later.
Go to your local track and talk to them about what they think, and then make up your own mind.
You are not going to win from the start, so maybe you dont need that extra edge the super expensive gizmos may or may not give you.

Have fun
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Old 03-15-2012, 05:37 AM
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Thanks for the feedback guys! I really appreciate it.

After talking with a couple guys at the track I decided to pull the trigger and here is what I purchased so far:

B4.1 world's
dx2s radio with SR3300t rx
LPR SXX TC spec speed controller
X12 vector stock spec 17.5T and a 13.5T(because I got 15% off everything)
Savox 1258TG servo
SureCharge 2010 charger
Racers Edge 20C 5000mAh 7.4v battery

Please let me know your opinion on this stuff, good or bad. I know these things are somewhat subjective, but 'I hate LPR' doesn't help me much. Thanks!

Oh one last thing, I'll be assembling my buggy later and wanted to know if I should use loctite on anything? And also if I should upgrade anything on the buggy right off the bat?
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by InfamousJon
Thanks for the feedback guys! I really appreciate it.

After talking with a couple guys at the track I decided to pull the trigger and here is what I purchased so far:

B4.1 world's
dx2s radio with SR3300t rx
LPR SXX TC spec speed controller
X12 vector stock spec 17.5T and a 13.5T(because I got 15% off everything)
Savox 1258TG servo
SureCharge 2010 charger
Racers Edge 20C 5000mAh 7.4v battery

Please let me know your opinion on this stuff, good or bad. I know these things are somewhat subjective, but 'I hate LPR' doesn't help me much. Thanks!

Oh one last thing, I'll be assembling my buggy later and wanted to know if I should use loctite on anything? And also if I should upgrade anything on the buggy right off the bat?

Looks like your going to start off with some nice stuff you can grow with. The only thing that you probably should have done was gotten a higher C rate battery. Running 17.5T Stock the better battery will really show.

As for what to upgrade on the B4.1 cant help ya there I run the Losi 22.
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:10 AM
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That seems like a good collection of items you have decided on

Blue loctite goes on anywhere a metal screw is screwed into another metal peice.

Upgrades are easy, just upgrade the parts as they fail.
Beware of the bling factor, most of the time you only need alu on high stress points. The rest of the time plastics are the better solution because of lower weight.

I havent had the pleasure to own a Associated car yet, so i cant advice you on any known weak points.

One thing to keep an eye on: If you have a ball diff in the car and havent any experience with these, you might just be better off with a gear diff.

I hope this helps
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:44 AM
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It will most likely be quite some time before that battery is a determining factor in you winning or losing. In other words, unless you're one of the best 3-4 drivers in your class, that battery will be fine and won't matter
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:43 AM
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The b4.1 worlds is a highly adjustable car that you should be able to compete with quite well, and grow on easily. 17.5 is a great class for (re)honing driving skills, as it reduces the difference between cars (though differences still exist).

A note on batteries:
Gens Ace from HobbyPartz are often out of stock, but GREAT bang for the buck, and quite good batteries too. I've been running their 5300mah 30c and the 5000mah 50c. I'm not amazing, but I think I've only ever seen a performance difference between the two c ratings once. That being said, with a 17.5 class, the C rating is one way you get more power more quickly (punch), so it gives you more of an edge when the motors are all equal. As mentioned though, unless you're battling for 1st or second around the track most of the time, you won't ever see that difference.

A note on ESCs:
Each one has a slightly different driving characteristic. We have folks that swear by Tekin, LRP, and Orion. They've all tried each of them and like what they've now settled on the best, swearing it cuts a half second off their laptop since they changed to it. In the end, they'll all be good and all last, and likely all be able to be re-sold if you want to use a different one.

A note on parts:
I don't run an Associated car myself, but many of the folks running Associated at our local track say the main/first thing you want to do is replace the ball cups with RPM ones.
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:13 PM
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the only parts I can think of you need loctite is:

1. tranny screws to motor plate. If you get them tight the trans binds so better to put thread locker on them and just barely snug them.

2 screws that hold on the front wheels.
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by InfamousJon
Thanks for the feedback guys! I really appreciate it.

After talking with a couple guys at the track I decided to pull the trigger and here is what I purchased so far:

B4.1 world's
dx2s radio with SR3300t rx
LPR SXX TC spec speed controller
X12 vector stock spec 17.5T and a 13.5T(because I got 15% off everything)
Savox 1258TG servo
SureCharge 2010 charger
Racers Edge 20C 5000mAh 7.4v battery

Please let me know your opinion on this stuff, good or bad. I know these things are somewhat subjective, but 'I hate LPR' doesn't help me much. Thanks!

Oh one last thing, I'll be assembling my buggy later and wanted to know if I should use loctite on anything? And also if I should upgrade anything on the buggy right off the bat?
Good on you for asking the locals.. maybe reconsider LRP SXX TC, or better still try and get a response from their customer service dept first, maybe it's just at this end of the world we have problems.
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by blis
Good on you for asking the locals.. maybe reconsider LRP SXX TC, or better still try and get a response from their customer service dept first, maybe it's just at this end of the world we have problems.
I got everything together and did a little testing on the street with some old wheels and tires, everything seems to be working great so far.

I had no issues with setting up the sxx. What problems are you having?
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:56 AM
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Default Rear Wheel Offset

I found some old rear wheels with tires already mounted and because the tread is in good shape, I'm planning on using them for practice. One question, though, they have about a 3/8 inch offset and I'm wondering how that affects my 2WD buggy?
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