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Changing motors for different tracks > Changing motors for different tracks

Changing motors for different tracks

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Old 03-11-2012, 05:23 PM
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Default Changing motors for different tracks

I'm building a 1/10 Losi XXX-SCT to run on our outdoor clay road track with jumps, FZRC in Sarasota. The guys suggest running something like a Tekin 13.5 and Tekin RS ESC. The track has 180 degree turns that almost stop a car and then the need for quick acceleration.

If I then take the same car to an oval requiring continuous high speed, I can always play with the spur/pinion, and other things. However, I wonder if a different motor, such as a Tekin 8.5 or whatever would be better.

If I change motors, I wonder about using bullet connectors instead of soldering frequently. Are these connectors reliable? They seem to be easy to use and make relatively quick motor changing. How do I identify the really good connectors?
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:32 PM
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The technical short answer: The less connections you make, the less resistance, and the more power.

The down to earth answer: Under no circumstance beyond not knowing how to solder or plug something in will you find a real loss of power by using bullet or banana connectors. Just make sure they're in a place where they won't come partially apart and that you don't end up with too much loose wire from it.

I run my short course this way without issue for the same ability to change motors, though I haven't done so yet. My buggy is also being built the same way so I can swap software settings in my ESC and quickly go between a modified setup and a 17.5 setup for the same race day.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:02 AM
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You want bullets that look like this, large solid prongs:



Not the flimsy spinning cage style like this:



Like mentioned, make sure they are protected some, well insulated, and don't pull apart. I've seen some guys stagger them along the wires to prevent shorts.


Another option is a 3 wire connector like this:



5mm Ultra High active power 3P motor connecto
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:39 AM
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For the part of the question related to actual motor choice, I'd say this. It's easy to make a 8.5 slow down to the speed of a 13.5 (punch levels on your ESC, throttle epa on the TX) but hard to make a 13.5 run like an 8.5 (it'll take a bunch of boost, not always good) so if you're only going to buy one of those, buy the faster one.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:34 PM
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As to the connection popping off during a run, just zip-tie the ends together. No way in hell that's going to come off. I use the 4mm bullets(like the first pic) for the battery connection (male and female on one side, so crossing up the polarity is impossible) and even practicing whoop/washboard sections for 10 mins does not budge them.
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