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Which old cars to bash with?

Which old cars to bash with?

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Old 01-21-2012, 05:13 PM
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Default Which old cars to bash with?

I'd like to get back into at least goofing around with R/C cars.

I raced pan car oval when I was a kid, then switched to 1/12 road course when that dried up. Eventually all the racing within a 3 hour radius dried up and so did my interest.

I still have the 10LSS and 12L, but I also have a nitro RS4-2 that I picked up a few years ago.

I'm trying to figure out what to do or which car to focus on. The RS4 never really ran right, never managed to get the full potential out of the engine, etc. I REALLY want to run the bodies that I ran when I first got into the hobby 20 years ago, and luckily they're the only ones still available (mcallister GTP), the only issue is that they will never fit a nitro RS4. My dad painted up a gorgeous Silk Cut Jag that I'd like to replicate for this- kind of in his honor. He passed away about 10 years ago, but now I have a son of my own that I'd like to keep that stuff alive for- kind of an extension of something from the grandpa he will never get to meet.

I've considered rebuilding the 10L into a wide car to run those bodies, but pan cars aren't exactly good unprepped parking lot cars. The RS4 would likely be a better starting point with the 4WD and actual suspension, but the shock towers and engine get in the way of the body. I can probably work around the shock towers with some bellcrank treachery, but what are the chances it would make a decent electric car? I'd need to widen the track a bit (can one get to 235mm using high offset touring car wheels?) too. I guess I'm saying I could make the GTP bodies fit the RS4 if I switched to electric but would it be worth it?

The other question is electronics. I ran sanyo reds and blacks when I raced. I don't have any of those left, and the capacity of the LIPO batteries is definitely amazing compared to the 4.003 minutes we got out of the reds.

The 10L setup would be plenty fast with 2S, but I think I'd need 3S to get similar performance out of an electric converted RS4 due to weight and drivetrain loss. I'm debating whether to buy a cheapo brushless setup or just stick with the mild mod motors (19-21t) and Tekin 410K ESC from way back when. I'm also not sure a 410K could handle 3S voltages (it's the BEC I'm worried about, the PWM drive is open collector so voltage doesn't matter as long as it doesn't exceed the breakdown voltage of the MOSFETs).

Honestly, I never plan on racing again so spending more than $60-70 on a brushless ESC is a waste IMO. I'd mostly be looking at the hobbyking stuff. Given that, I *think* I'm probably better off just sticking with the 410K and brushed motors. I do plan to pick up a cheap 2.4GHz radio setup just for some added range so I can drive it on 1/4 ovals, etc. I still have the mag jr and magnum PB AM radios but they never had very good range- actually almost destroyed my F103 when I was a kid hitting a pole at full throttle from a glitch). Kind of wish I hadn't harvested the 3PB PCM radio I got for free for parts though

I'm pretty decent at fabbing parts, so that's not really an issue. I may have access to a small lathe if I need it.

tl;dr- I have a 10L, an RS4-2 nitro and a 12L (and an F1 in bad shape) and want something that runs GTP bodies for bashing in the parking lots/roadcourse shaped sidewalks of MN. What would you do?

I do plan on keeping the 12L in case Stinkyface ever wants to race for real.


Thanks!
-karl
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:19 PM
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Also, the other thing I like about the RS4 is the 2 speed transmission. It makes me giggle like a little kid when it shifts and takes off in the next gear. I'd like to keep that if possible...

And yes, I know I'd need a low battery failsafe if I kept the 410k with lipos.

Last edited by Arik350; 01-21-2012 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:54 AM
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I'm in a similar situation and let me tell you what my wallet has found out in the last month of getting back into this. I've been out for about 15 years and wanted to get back into it with my son. I thought I was doing well buying two tamiya buggies (gold standard back when I was in RC last) and gear trying to get back into it on the cheap. He is 7 and not ready for anything to fast so I stuck with brushed motors and NiMH batteries.

The tamiya buggies aren't any better designed than my 15 year old road car and we were ready for more speed on the brushed motors within 24 hours. Within 48 hours both cars were broken due to poor design and I spent the last 4 weeks spending double what I spent on the entire setup just trying to keep the buggies together!

One day at the local track while trying to piece together at least one functional buggy for my son to drive I broke down and bought a Slash 4x4. Best $400 I've spent so far. We have both had so much fun running the modern hardware. The technology just doesn't compare... Brushless motors, programmable ESCs, suspensions, chassis tech, radio tech... I do feel like buying an RTR is kind of cheating... I'm sure you grew up the same way, building everything from scratch but for sheer enjoyment and fun with your kid you can't beat it.

Hind sight being 20/20 I would have gone this way from the beginning. There are enough upgrade parts and maintenance so there will be enough tear down and rebuild time to learn every nut and bolt. Don't make the mistake that took me $600 in worthless buggies to learn... That could have been my Vorza!
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:07 AM
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arik
if you want the same speed as nitro but in electric id recomend going with a brushless conversion kit. ive seen electric 1/8 scale buggys beat the snot of a nitro buggy that was geared the same
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Old 01-26-2012, 04:35 PM
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As you're aware, the 10L or any other true pan car will just have too many traction problems to be much fun on an unprepared parking lot. I'd look elsewhere for what you want to do.

The price of some of the Traxxas RTR's that will do 60mph these days is so low that unless you want a headache, I'd investigate those even if they won't use a GTP-style body.
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