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Does TT-01 has a potential?

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Does TT-01 has a potential?

Old 06-04-2005, 04:55 PM
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and also what are shims
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Old 06-04-2005, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by kid TT-01
and also what are shims
Shims are little circular pieces of metal (sometimes made of other material) that are used to take up the space that has slop or play. For example, if you can wiggle your front tire around a decent amount, there is some play in possibly your axles or steering column. I use O-rings and shims to get rid of all the slop.

kid TT-01, you got a good attitude it's people like you who make me keep my TT-01... and hopefully one day kick butt too!

rayman, the impression I'm getting from your replies is that, regardless of which way I go (ball diff, gear diff, one-way), if I smack a wall, all will have the same chance of breaking, eh?
I might just stick with gear diffs and play with the grease on them or bind them somehow. that way, I get limited slip diff action atleast, although if I could get used to a one-way, that might help me take out some TA04s.
I plan on staying 27T stock, so hopefully that'll allow my molded dogbones to last a while. I guess dog bones aren't cheap cuz they keep breaking? Is that the case?
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Old 06-04-2005, 05:40 PM
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thanx dugrant153 for that coment i been thinking of doing a concept of a TT-01 a carbon fibre one, it may be a bit hard but should be worth while if i get it done
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Old 06-04-2005, 10:35 PM
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dugrant153- yes if you hit a wall the bevel gear in front will break eventually. With a one way you can add the one way bearing to that bevel gear that will break. It doesnt matter what kit, one ways will break if not used carefully. Dont bind the gear diff in front or you'll lose steering!
You can do that with the rear diff, but then again I only do that with offroad kits, might not be good on touring cars.
The dogbones broke on my friends tt-01 with a silver can. I told him not to buy it anymore coz if he upgrades to a 27t roar stock or a 23t tamiya motor, all of them will break. I think a pair of universals cost about a set of 4 dogbones.
I think the tt-01 has potential in 27t roar stock with the following hop ups
bearings
cva oil damper(cheap)
alum prop shaft
alum motor mount and heatsink
adj turnbuckles
metal outdrives, universal
upper graphite deck
no bling blings, no ball diff just the essential so cost is cheap. invest in good batts instead.
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Old 06-04-2005, 10:38 PM
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thats what im doing no more hop ups for now im investing in 2 3300 batteries, then il buy more hop ups
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Old 06-05-2005, 12:28 AM
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thanks for the tips, rayman

I think I'll keep my current diff settings for now (semi-loose rear, semi-tight front). That way it doesn't completely lock but I still get a bit of a limited slip effect. The front and rear diff grease broke in once I ran it tonight. So it's a bit looser, but not totally loose that it just spins. No leaks either But will have to keep an eye out.

I guess I'll pass on the one-way for now, although getting the universals AND outdrives is proving to be VERY expensive, especially if I do it for front and rear.
And I haven't broken any dogbones yet. Unless I got straight into a wall, there doesn't seem to be any potential for dogbone damage, even with my P2k (at that rate, I'd be surprised if NOTHING got damaged!). The car has flipped a few times and hit a wall or two, but no missing dogbones or broken ones either. I think the TT01 dogbones are quite thick.

The Universals seem like a costly upgrade. From my shopping, the cost of a pair of universals is about 2.5x times more expensive than a pack of dogbones.
Maybe I'll hope on the dogbones and go with Venom batteries

Last edited by dugrant153; 06-05-2005 at 01:26 AM.
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Old 06-05-2005, 12:50 AM
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yep with out batts what are you gona do, nothing thats what lol
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Old 06-05-2005, 02:49 AM
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yup, batts give a big advantage. a 12T mod with zapped or matched batts can compete with a 10T mod with regular batts on the straightway. Batts should last till your next kits, so you should invest in it along with a good charger.

I forgot to mention you need type a or b slicks, new inserts, 24mm wheels. chaching.
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Old 06-05-2005, 03:08 AM
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hey are sanyo and gp batteries the only good ones out
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Old 06-05-2005, 05:08 AM
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Yeah basically but GP is the more prefered company.

Sean
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Old 06-05-2005, 08:55 AM
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You guys should follow every advice that rayman gives. He beat a guy driving a nitro with his tl01 at our racetrack. He knows his tamiya kits so well....

kid tt01: you could also try the intellect cells... i hear they're pretty wicked with the proper charging...you could ask rayman on this.
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Old 06-05-2005, 01:39 PM
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ooh... he beat a nitro with a TL01?! SICK!

Rayman, I think I might have to skimp on the Universals for now. The TT01 dogbones seem pretty tightly fit into the outdrives. And the oneway... well, I was talking to a guy at the track and he said get Universals with a one-way. So... time to buy BATTERIES!! mwa ha ha ha

And 24mm tires :P oi... caching indeed
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Old 06-05-2005, 01:40 PM
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If anyone is thinking of getting rid of their TT-01, please PM me pictures and how much you want for it. Thanks.
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Old 06-05-2005, 03:04 PM
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i've got pretty much everything on Rayman's list except adj turnbuckles
metal outdrives, universal i dont know what they are i have an idea but not sure.

i've got takeOFF27s, they do me very well, they are wearing out so i may need to get new ones.

i have sanyo batteries at the moment 2400mah and 2 3000mah, they got heaps of punch compared to my 2 1800mah venom's.

as for the bling bling, i broke my front knuckle arm like 3 times, so i invested in alloy ones because i figured i'm gonna keep buying the plastic replacement and waste more money! oh and breaking them wasnt because i drive crap a 415 hit into me damn those alloy cars
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Old 06-05-2005, 04:33 PM
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hey yeh if you want to get stronger arms get the alloy far more stronger then the platic ones but i wana get the adjustable for cambering the wheels and also a nitro car being beeten by a TL_01 thats funny but still proves that you dont need a heaps good car
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