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Old 04-18-2004, 04:53 PM
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hi i was jsut wondering how and what to you do to tune your electric motor?
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Old 04-18-2004, 05:25 PM
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motor tuning,

1-Disassemble the Motor
*2- Take the Can and get some cheap Toothpaste(equate), Put the Arm on a Dremel and run the shaft in and out of bushings w/ toothpaste.
3- Take a Brush hood Alignment tool and Align the Brush hood(Critical Must be done For Best performance)
4- Cut the Comm
5- Put new brushes in the motor
6- Get new springs if wanted
7- Put the Fabric(dunno how called) Shim on Top and a .10mm shim on top. Put a .10mm shim on bottum. screw the motor hood back on. Spin the Arm until it balances in center of magnets and shim the Side that has play.
8- Break in Motor at 2V for 2min \

*dont have to do #2 but Most prefer Too. Make Sure not to use some of the good Toothpaste(Colgate, etc etc) becasue it will wear the bushing too much

Thats what I do, I could be totally wrong on everything
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Old 04-18-2004, 11:52 PM
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If your going to run in the bushings, ALWAYS take them out of the can. You can easily damage the bushing if you leave it in the can while running them in. Also to get the hoods aligned perfectly you MUST align the brushes, cut a set of brushes so they are flat faced, put them in the motor and run it for 5 seconds. If the brush wears perfcetly in the center the brushes are aligned, if not adjust the hoods till they wear perfectly in the center. There is no tool that can get you brushes aligned perfectly, you have to put in the 30 minutes of work to get it right.

Motor tuning is done via the brushes and springs. The stock spring setups are usually fine in most cases.
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Old 04-19-2004, 03:35 AM
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Originally posted by True R/C Racing

7- Put the Fabric(dunno how called) Shim on Top and a .10mm shim on top. Put a .10mm shim on bottum.
Just an FYI, that spacer is called the phanolic(sp) spacer. NEVER run your motor without that in place, otherwise, your comm may chip from slamming against the bushing. Be careful, they break easily.
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Old 04-19-2004, 10:32 AM
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that may be true, but the fabric spacer(thats what i like to call it), also protects the comm from bushing lube and other chemicals. So there are 2 big reasons to have them in place. But don't do what i did when i just started, put a total of 3 of them on, because i didn't have enough of the gold spacers.
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Old 04-19-2004, 10:43 AM
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yeah the phenolic washer (fabric/fiber) is something good to have in your motor definitely helps by keeping lube off the comm.

one word of warning with running in your bushings is that they wear out faster if you do so. then slop comes into play which isnt good. as long as you oil yuor bushings i dont see a reason to run them.


For your original question on timing,

increase timing= more top end and overall power

decrease timing= more low end torque




so u mest be reading and saying more top end and overall power why not run high timing all the time and for that the higher the timing the hotter, less efficent and harder on brush/comm.


hope this helps
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Old 04-21-2004, 04:23 PM
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Originally posted by True R/C Racing
motor tuning,

1-Disassemble the Motor
*2- Take the Can and get some cheap Toothpaste(equate), Put the Arm on a Dremel and run the shaft in and out of bushings w/ toothpaste.
3- Take a Brush hood Alignment tool and Align the Brush hood(Critical Must be done For Best performance)
4- Cut the Comm
5- Put new brushes in the motor
6- Get new springs if wanted
7- Put the Fabric(dunno how called) Shim on Top and a .10mm shim on top. Put a .10mm shim on bottum. screw the motor hood back on. Spin the Arm until it balances in center of magnets and shim the Side that has play.
8- Break in Motor at 2V for 2min \

*dont have to do #2 but Most prefer Too. Make Sure not to use some of the good Toothpaste(Colgate, etc etc) becasue it will wear the bushing too much

Thats what I do, I could be totally wrong on everything

if you have a time try to look for a precision bearing to replace the bushing this will help the motor stator to run better as compared to the bushing.. Precision bearing have a better life span than the bushing itself....
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Old 04-21-2004, 04:59 PM
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Originally posted by Wency_TA03R-PRO
if you have a time try to look for a precision bearing to replace the bushing this will help the motor stator to run better as compared to the bushing.. Precision bearing have a better life span than the bushing itself....
Yes but thats illegal to put bearings in stock
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Old 04-21-2004, 08:01 PM
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Originally posted by True R/C Racing
Yes but thats illegal to put bearings in stock
but how is it if a stock motor comes w/ a bearing installed already form the factory?!
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Old 04-21-2004, 08:19 PM
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True is talking about roar legal stock motors in the US. Under roar rules all stock motors (27x1) in the US have to run bushings to be legal. In Asia and surrounding areas 23t stock motors are used, I'm not sure if they come with bearings but they are completely different to the US roar legal stock motors.
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Old 04-21-2004, 08:56 PM
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Originally posted by True R/C Racing
Yes but thats illegal to put bearings in stock
Ah ok.. I think I better go with the modified motor instead.....
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