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Duratrax Intellispeed ESC trouble

Duratrax Intellispeed ESC trouble

Old 04-05-2009, 11:39 PM
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Default Duratrax Intellispeed ESC trouble

Hello,

I just got a Duratrax 16T Intellispeed ESC, and am having some trouble with it. Firstly, my car runs whether ESC is switched on or off, which in the manual says the drive transistor might be blown. Could this affect anything else in the car, or should I just not worry about it?

Then, some problem trying to set it up. It says I must follow some directions (press full throttle, wait for red light, etc) but I never get the red light, etc. The ESC seems to work though, so might not have to worry about this. Also, when I set a delay in reverse to avoid too much strain on the gears, there is only a delay when swithching from reverse to forward, but not from forward to reverse. And lastly, everything works fine except when I choose to disable reverse, the car breaks when I press forward on the transmitter and goes forward when I press brake in the transmitter.

Anyone having these same problems or know how I could possibly solve them? Should I send my ESC in to have it repaired (manual said it could require service if it ran when it was switched off). I really appreciate the help! Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
Fer
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Old 04-06-2009, 06:41 AM
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What radio? It sounds like you need to reverse the throttle channel on your radio. Need to know which radio you have to tell you how. Some have a little switch and others are done in a programing screen.
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Old 04-06-2009, 07:28 PM
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Hi,

I have a Futaba 2pl transmitter, but the problem is not the throttle reversal. For some reason, when I am on two of three settings (no delay for reverse, .8 sec delay for reverse) the car works fine (except the delay only works when going backwards to forwards, not forwards to back), yet when I change to the third setting (forward, no reverse), the car goes backwards when I try reverse and brakes when I want to go forward. I tried doing throttle reverssal but it doesnt work. Also, what happens if the drive transister is blown? Should I send my ESC in for repair? How long do they usually take?

Thanks in advance for the help!
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Old 04-08-2009, 03:54 PM
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your throttle is reversed on the radio, and most likely so are your motor leads. That's why it seems to work until you use the reverse delay or lockout. If I remember correctly on duratrax blue is ground, white or yellow should go to the positive on the motor. It's a common mistake
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Old 04-11-2009, 05:47 PM
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Hi again! Thanks RC dad, you were right, my motor leads were reversed. I fixed that, and did a couple of runs, and the car was running perfectly. However, I am now having another problem, and I am pretty sure its linked to the electronic speed control as well. My car runs perfectly for 5 minutes or so, but then suddenly stops. The steering servo still responds properly, and the correct leds light up in the ESC when I do throttle or reverse, but the car doesnt move. if I turn the ESC and transmitter off for a couple of minutes and try again, the car starts to work fine again. However, if I bump into somethng, even if its a very light bump, it stops again. Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be? Is there a way to fix this or do I need to get a new ESC? Also forgot to say, neither the ESC or the motor is hot to the touch.

Thanks a ton for all the help, awesome forum.
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Old 04-11-2009, 11:45 PM
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What condition is the motor in? If it's had a hard life the brushes could be getting hung-up in the channel, or the brush shunt could be snagged preventin the brush from making a proper contact to the comm.
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:07 PM
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It could be a motor brush, but since the motor's not hot I'd suspect you still have the factory white (Tamiya) connectors on your car. As they get old they tend to get loose or black inside with corrosion. After a few minutes of running they get hot and expand, breaking contact, a bump would cause this also. They'llpass enough current for a servo but stall when the motor trieds to pull current. You can tell when they're bad because they get really hot, I've even had them melt the plastic and fuse together.

I'd replace them on both the esc and batteries (and your charger) with Deans or Traxxas connectors that are tighter and able to handle more current. Sux to buy several sets the first time but well worth it!
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by RC Dad
It could be a motor brush, but since the motor's not hot I'd suspect you still have the factory white (Tamiya) connectors on your car. As they get old they tend to get loose or black inside with corrosion. After a few minutes of running they get hot and expand, breaking contact, a bump would cause this also. They'llpass enough current for a servo but stall when the motor trieds to pull current. You can tell when they're bad because they get really hot, I've even had them melt the plastic and fuse together.

I'd replace them on both the esc and batteries (and your charger) with Deans or Traxxas connectors that are tighter and able to handle more current. Sux to buy several sets the first time but well worth it!
Brushes can easily stick without the motor getting hot. Yes the tamiya plugs should be the first thing to get rid of!
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Old 04-15-2009, 07:32 PM
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thanks for all the responses guys, much appreciated. I do have Tamiya connectors, but I doubt its that. I just tried running it again inside my house, it ran for about a minute and I never had it accelerate past maybe 1/10th full speed since I was inside, and it stopped. I have only run maybe 5 full battery packs or so with this motor, so I would have guess its in decent condition but I dont know.

Its my first car, so I dont have any experience with motors. Does anyone know where I migt be able to find an explanation on how to check if the motor is fine (or whether brushes hung up in channel or brush shunt snagged as described by JR)?

I will follow your advice and get deans connectors though. Thanks again for everything, this forum is great!
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Old 04-22-2009, 06:32 PM
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Hi again. Ive been unsuccessfully trying to fix this. It wont go at all anymore. So guess is its probably the motor? Should I just try replacing it?

Thanks again for all the help.
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by fergzzq
Hi again. Ive been unsuccessfully trying to fix this. It wont go at all anymore. So guess is its probably the motor? Should I just try replacing it?

Thanks again for all the help.
Take the motor out and replace the motor brushes in the motor.
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Old 04-28-2009, 11:49 AM
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Are you running the 20T Photon Speed that it came with? Those things are notorious for shorting out and melting brush springs which would also cause this. I'd borrow or buy another stock motor and try that first.

If it does the same thing go back to the white Tamiya Connectors. Really. You can test them cheaply by just bending one of the prongs in slightly so it has more pressure for a better connection. Stick a pen or a hobby knife in the male end to do this. If that makes a difference - it's time for new connectors.
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