help wont start

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Old 04-08-2006, 01:59 AM
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Default help wont start

im new 2 all this i cant seem to get my rc car started its brand new n hasnt yet been broken in can u help
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Old 04-08-2006, 03:00 AM
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Dany first of all whast your car, speed controler, Radio set?

I'm thinking you didnt wire it correctly.
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Old 04-08-2006, 01:51 PM
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I'm thinking it is nitro....
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Old 04-08-2006, 02:21 PM
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well, you could break in a electric motor... with a hammer! jk.

you mean a nitro engine, right? make sure you have a good/new glowplug battery! i got blisters puling on a pulstart for 30 minutes, and realized the ignitor was dead!

also make sure the engine is not flooded. take the plug out, and turn the engine upside down, and pull on the start. drops of fuel will come out IF it is flooded.

Good luck!!!!
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Old 04-08-2006, 06:54 PM
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He's talking about nitro for sure, but if you electric people actually did what you were supposed to when you first bought an electric motor you would know that even electrics need to be broken in.

Now, first off try blocking the exhaust outlet (Stinger) with your finger and give the engine a few cranks. Make sure your glow plug is in good condition and the ignitor is charged. If the engine is cold, or the area you are trying to run is cold, heat the engine with a heat gun or blow dryer to get the piston and sleeve down to a more managable size. Now try starting your engine with the ignitor on.

It should start up. Blocking the exhaust with your finger and trying to start the engine will bring fuel to the carb and prime it. Checking the glow plug is just something you're always supposed to do anyway, and making sure the batteries in the glow ignitor are fresh are a good practice to get into. The blow dryer thing is a good idea to prevent wearing in the piston and sleeve to much in the first few minutes of running. The piston and sleeve will change diameters as they get hot, so there will be some loss in compression as they reach running tempurature. At the point of manufacture, the sleeve is a conical shape, meaning it's diameter is ever so slightly smaller at the top than at the bottom. This is refered to in the hobby as "Pinch." It hels reduce wear on the piston, keep things running without much friction, and also improves compression at the top of the pistons stroke. When the engine is brand new, the fit between these two items is very tight, and often hard for the engine to overcome by itself. Drop some after run oil (Or if you must, some 3N'1) into the glow plug hole and try the heat gun trick. It should be easier to crank, and easier for the engine to turn over. When the cylinder is dry (Without lubrication) it can be hard (And dangerous) for the engine to run. Don't skimp out on proper break in procedure. If you do you will be met with a terrible engine later on. It will be finicky, non-reliable, and hard to start if you don't break it in properly. Another thing to remember is when the engine is warm from a tank of fuel, make sure you leave the piston at BDC (Bottom dead center) when you let it cool down. This is the point where the piston is at the very bottom of the sleeve. This way, when the internal engine parts shrink back down, it won't squish the piston and potentialy (In cases of a brand new engine) sieze the motor. Always leave the piston at BDC while it's cooling. This is about 1/4 of a turn of the flywheel past the point of compression. So after you feel the harsh resistance stop (Meaning the point where all resistance is released and you hear the little blurp from the exaust) turn the flywheel another 1/4 of a turn and you're near BDC.

Good luck!
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