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My first ever RC car complete!

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My first ever RC car complete!

Old 03-20-2021, 01:54 AM
  #1  
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Default My first ever RC car complete!

Hey guys! New to this place and I just finished my first RC car ever! Always wanted one since 25+ years back since my big brother had an engine car which was super cool when I was a toddler.

Anyways, my first car is a Tamiya Plasma Edge Gun Metal (TT-02b chassi) and I love it.
My little setup is the following:
Transmitter: Futaba PV3
Motor: Tamiya TBLM-02s 10.5T
ESC: Hobbywing quickrun 10BL120
Servo: some best selling servo on amazon for 20 bucks.
Battery: Nastima 7.2V NiMH 4000mAh

Everything runs pretty smooth BUT I have one question about when Iím running my little rocket is that a lot of times it does not go full speed when giving it full throttle. Sometimes it goes full speed sometimes it donít and after holding max throttle in for a while it sort of takes of like a little nitro boost. I donít have the programming card for the ESC so it runs on factory settings right now. Do any of you guys know what might be the cause? Is the battery not giving it proper juice? Some esc setting that I need to set properly?
Thank you guys in advance!

Ps. Changed my pinion gear from 17T to 25T, and for some reason I got some cogging on super low throttle, opened up the car and just reattached the motor and the cogging was gone, I have no clue why but it works apparently ds.
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Old 03-20-2021, 03:30 AM
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Invest in a 2 cell lipo. not sure if your charger will charge those type of batteries.
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Old 03-20-2021, 05:56 AM
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Was thinking about going for lipo batteries at first but then reading up on them they are a little too much for me maintenance wise.
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Old 03-20-2021, 11:15 PM
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Not sure what your specific problem is but I'd check the following items
Calibrate esc to transmitter-the process will be in the esc manual
Is the esc low voltage cutoff set for the NiMH battery? I haven't seen any esc that defaults to NiMH the default is usually LiPo. Check the manual and it should show the default setting and how to change.
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Old 03-21-2021, 04:42 AM
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Thanks for the reply, probably need to buy the esc programming card and see if itís get better
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Old 03-22-2021, 10:42 AM
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It appears that the Tamiya motor that you are using is a sensored motor (https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/elect...brushless-540/)

The ESC you are using can automatically recognize if you are using a sensored or sensorless motor. (https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/prod...=2139725987868)

Since you are using a sensored motor, you should have a sensor wire going between the ESC and the motor. Make sure that the sensor wire is plugged in securely and is not damaged. If possible try a different/new sensor wire and see if the problem goes away. You should never get any cogging when using a sensored motor and speed control unless there is a problem with the sensor wire, sensor board in the motor, or defective ESC. I would always troubleshooting motor cogging first by checking the sensor wire as it can come loose or get damaged more easily than the other electronic components.
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Old 03-23-2021, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by GreenCap View Post
Was thinking about going for lipo batteries at first but then reading up on them they are a little too much for me maintenance wise.
look into getting spektrum G2 batteries and charger. They are literally plug and play charge technology. They also have a built in feature that will discharge them after 24-48 hours of inactivity. I'll be making the swap once they release 2s shorties.
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Old 04-03-2021, 09:22 PM
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Default Thanks all the replies guys!

I bought the programming card for the esc and it will be arriving today, will check if there is any setting I might have missed. Also bought a new sensor cable to have as a spare if the current one gets damaged. But how do you know when the cable is damaged? I tried to take it loose and run the car and it will still run, some cogging on low throttle.

If itís a sensored motor should cogging be non-existent?

And I also bought a 2s LiPo with a charger to test that out as well.

And does the power cable size matters? The power cable that was from the ESC was pretty thick would say around 2mm, but the connector I soldered on had almost half the thickness of the cables, might that be a problem too?

Cheers again guys!
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:17 AM
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Often it is hard to notice that an individual wire has become damaged on a sensor cable due to the small individual wires. Often it is just easier to trouble shoot issues by swapping out the cable, in part because it forces the individual to make sure the cable is plugged in fully and properly at both ends. A cable that isn't plugged in securely can cause intermittent issues.

Most people who race with sensored motors usually keep spare sensor cables since they are relatively inexpensive.

----------

You can never 100% eliminate cogging due to the very nature of how brushless motors are designed. However in practice, you shouldn't experience any noticeable cogging and/or acceleration issues when using a properly setup sensored brushless motor system in an r/c car.

I race touring cars on-road using slower sensored brushless motors (25.5 or 21.5). The start of most main events will occur from a dead stop. If my car is working properly my starts will always be smooth whether I mash the gas or gently apply forward throttle. If I experience any problems with acceleration from a dead stop, getting to top speed, or otherwise unusual performance from the motor it often is from a problem with the sensor cable.
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Old 04-07-2021, 08:27 PM
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Default Thanks again for the reply!

A quick update, I changed my sensor cable, and tried with my new 2s LiPo battery(omg that was a snug fit!) and it was no problem what so ever! Holy cow! It takes of like a rocket, havenít tried my other NiMH batteries yet but I have a feeling it was the sensor cable that was the culprit.

And thanks again for your replies! Super helpful!
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