Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Rookie Zone
Monster Beetle - Newbie Help with Everything! >

Monster Beetle - Newbie Help with Everything!

Like Tree6Likes
  • 1 Post By xl-racing
  • 1 Post By jgil089
  • 1 Post By xl-racing
  • 1 Post By xl-racing
  • 1 Post By xl-racing
  • 1 Post By xl-racing

Monster Beetle - Newbie Help with Everything!

Old 08-06-2020, 10:24 PM
  #1  
Tech Rookie
Thread Starter
 
justsomedude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 8
Default Monster Beetle - Newbie Help with Everything!

Hi all - new member here from Denver!

I used to have a Tamiya King Cab and RC10 back in the day, and was heavily into the hobby as a teenager in the 90s, but have been out of it for more than 25 years. So that means I really donít know anything anymore!

I recently purchased a Monster Beetle 2015 reissue kit to reminisce those glory days, and am a bit overwhelmed with where to start. I got the MIP transfer case, but Iím totally lost on motors, servos, controllers, batteries, and chargers.

Any advice or tips on where to start would be greatly appreciated!

justsomedude is offline  
Old 08-07-2020, 06:49 AM
  #2  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
xl-racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,161
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Re-re monster Beetle kit already comes with ESC and 540 brushed motor in the package. Whats left you'll have to purchase 2 channel radio, Futaba S3003 size servo and 2s lipo battery pack. Here's mine.







justsomedude likes this.
xl-racing is offline  
Old 08-07-2020, 07:34 AM
  #3  
Tech Rookie
Thread Starter
 
justsomedude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 8
Default

Thanks for replying xl-racing !

What do you recommend as a budget or mid-range starter radio? Not cheap, but not the best either - maybe something I can grow into?

And do I have to go with lipos - or do people still use NiMH? Or are lipos just preferred now?
justsomedude is offline  
Old 08-10-2020, 12:15 AM
  #4  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 337
Default

You can use NiMH, or get a round case lipo which looks like the old NiMH. I had both, the NiMH finally died and I haven't bothered replacing them. I bought a dual charger so can charge 2 batteries at once so when my son asks to use the cars we're going in half an hour.

Servo, I would get a cheap metal geared one. I originally had a S3003 I think and it was fine, but I swapped it out for cheap metal geared servo cos I wanted the Futaba one for a boat. I just trust the electronics in Futaba compared to a $5 banggood one.

By MIP transfer case do you mean the MIP ball diff? I found that essential, its a great unit and solved the diff issue. Our one started clicking afet about 12 battery packs with the kit silver can motor and NiMH battery, so its pretty weak.

Radio, I prefer Sanwa and Futaba but have tried cheap ones which work fine. I would suggest the FlySky GT3C (the C has a lipo battery included and is lighter than the older B model) for cheap, the Futaba 3PV for better and reasonable price or look at the 4PM, 4PV etc, or Sanwa MTS or MT44 for mid range which will last you for years.

Oh yeah, get bearings for it too if you havent already. No idea why Tamiya still supply those plastic bushings.

I would run the kit motor and ESC to start, then look at a 13.5T brushless if you want more speed which should run fine with the included ESC and the chassis should handle it (with the MIP diff). Just a cheap motor will be fine, like a generation old SkyRC Ares or Surpass rocket V2 or V3, but has to be sensored to run with the ESC

Its a great car, really good runner (for the age etc).
justsomedude likes this.
jgil089 is offline  
Old 08-10-2020, 04:35 AM
  #5  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
xl-racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,161
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by justsomedude View Post
Thanks for replying xl-racing !

What do you recommend as a budget or mid-range starter radio? Not cheap, but not the best either - maybe something I can grow into?

And do I have to go with lipos - or do people still use NiMH? Or are lipos just preferred now?
Just like jgil089 said Flysky GT3C radio is good for general driving and bashing with abundant receiver unit available online. I'm myself use FLYSKY GT3C radio too but if you go for competitive you can go for SANWA/Airtronics or SPEKTRUM radio to go Pro. Alternative; somewhere in between RADIOLINK RC4GS or RC6GS also extremely best value both features and performance bang for buck. If you are running on supplied stock Tamiya ESC (TBLE-02S) then you can safely use up to 2S Li-po 7.4v battery which give you good punch of power over stock motor and much easy to recharge compare to NIMH pack because NIMH still have issues of 'residue' from previous charging if current not fully drain and also lack of oommpphh!.

I can understand why Tamiya supplied plastic bushing than bearing because if you bash on dirt or sand that microscopic gritty dirt won't jammed the bearing in between which causes friction clogging between ball bearings.
So if you bash on muds, dirt and salty sea water stick to plastic bushing for easy servicing. Stock brush motor won't easily worn plastic bushing around the hubs because of durable delrin plastic material assume you make sure you clean it after bashing. All my Tamiya collection remains stock as it is from the original kit with no hop-ups...just add li-po battery and wwhammm!
justsomedude likes this.

Last edited by xl-racing; 08-10-2020 at 04:45 AM.
xl-racing is offline  
Old 08-10-2020, 04:37 AM
  #6  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
xl-racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,161
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Btw here's my Monster Beetle video in action. Running all stock with 2s Li-po battery.

Video:
justsomedude likes this.
xl-racing is offline  
Old 08-10-2020, 12:01 PM
  #7  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 5
Default

...
Spencersprocket is offline  
Old 08-10-2020, 02:35 PM
  #8  
Tech Rookie
Thread Starter
 
justsomedude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 8
Default

Originally Posted by jgil089 View Post
You can use NiMH, or get a round case lipo which looks like the old NiMH. I had both, the NiMH finally died and I haven't bothered replacing them. I bought a dual charger so can charge 2 batteries at once so when my son asks to use the cars we're going in half an hour.

Servo, I would get a cheap metal geared one. I originally had a S3003 I think and it was fine, but I swapped it out for cheap metal geared servo cos I wanted the Futaba one for a boat. I just trust the electronics in Futaba compared to a $5 banggood one.

By MIP transfer case do you mean the MIP ball diff? I found that essential, its a great unit and solved the diff issue. Our one started clicking afet about 12 battery packs with the kit silver can motor and NiMH battery, so its pretty weak.

Radio, I prefer Sanwa and Futaba but have tried cheap ones which work fine. I would suggest the FlySky GT3C (the C has a lipo battery included and is lighter than the older B model) for cheap, the Futaba 3PV for better and reasonable price or look at the 4PM, 4PV etc, or Sanwa MTS or MT44 for mid range which will last you for years.

Oh yeah, get bearings for it too if you havent already. No idea why Tamiya still supply those plastic bushings.

I would run the kit motor and ESC to start, then look at a 13.5T brushless if you want more speed which should run fine with the included ESC and the chassis should handle it (with the MIP diff). Just a cheap motor will be fine, like a generation old SkyRC Ares or Surpass rocket V2 or V3, but has to be sensored to run with the ESC

Its a great car, really good runner (for the age etc).
Thanks - this is a huge help!!!

I have a quality dual balanced charger from my DJI drone days, so I'll stick with that and some 2S LiPos for now.

And I think I have the rest of the build dialed in:

- Futaba 3PV radio
- Futaba R304SB T-FHSS receiver
- Futaba S3004 servo
- Hobbywing 1060 brushed ESC (for the lipo cutoff)
- Kimbrough Servo Saver
- FastEddy bearing kit
- MIP Ball Diff
- Tamiya Stock motor

How much run time can I expect from a 3,000mah 2S ... 20-minutes? more?

Also... if I wanted to go with a metal gear servo, what would you recommend?

justsomedude is offline  
Old 08-10-2020, 02:36 PM
  #9  
Tech Rookie
Thread Starter
 
justsomedude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 8
Default

Originally Posted by xl-racing View Post
Btw here's my Monster Beetle video in action. Running all stock with 2s Li-po battery.

Video:
Ahhhhh!! That video is awesome!!!!!

Can't wait to get this thing built!!
justsomedude is offline  
Old 08-12-2020, 08:09 PM
  #10  
Tech Rookie
Thread Starter
 
justsomedude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 8
Default

Originally Posted by xl-racing View Post
Btw here's my Monster Beetle video in action. Running all stock with 2s Li-po battery.

Video:
Iíve been checking out some of your videos... did you end up keeping the Frog axles installed on your MB?
justsomedude is offline  
Old 08-12-2020, 11:39 PM
  #11  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
xl-racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,161
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by justsomedude View Post
I’ve been checking out some of your videos... did you end up keeping the Frog axles installed on your MB?
Not sure if i interpret your question correctly but MB was originally based on the frog chassis/axle with front shock mounting and tall body mounting post. So axle remains original stock as it is from the kit.
justsomedude likes this.
xl-racing is offline  
Old 08-13-2020, 03:20 AM
  #12  
Tech Rookie
Thread Starter
 
justsomedude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 8
Default

Originally Posted by xl-racing View Post
Not sure if i interpret your question correctly but MB was originally based on the frog chassis/axle with front shock mounting and tall body mounting post. So axle remains original stock as it is from the kit.
In your MB Still Problems - Frog Universal Drive Shaft vs Dogbone video... what parts are those, and which did you end up using?
justsomedude is offline  
Old 08-13-2020, 05:18 PM
  #13  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
xl-racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,161
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by justsomedude View Post
In your MB Still Problems - Frog Universal Drive Shaft vs Dogbone video... what parts are those, and which did you end up using?
Oh ok i know, you're reffering to Nordic RC video:

Mine still running stock CVD so its does have binding issues when not on the ground but when running on the ground with weight chassis weight pressure no problem at all with binding and runs smooth. Stock CVD will take time to 'break-in' via wear and tear before it smoothen itself.
justsomedude likes this.
xl-racing is offline  
Old 08-13-2020, 10:14 PM
  #14  
Tech Rookie
Thread Starter
 
justsomedude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 8
Default

Originally Posted by xl-racing View Post
Oh ok i know, you're reffering to Nordic RC video:

Mine still running stock CVD so its does have binding issues when not on the ground but when running on the ground with weight chassis weight pressure no problem at all with binding and runs smooth. Stock CVD will take time to 'break-in' via wear and tear before it smoothen itself.
My apologies - I got mixed up and thought that was your video for some reason!!

And thanks for the info! Still trying to figure this all out.
justsomedude is offline  

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.