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Squeaky dampers

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Old 07-21-2019, 12:37 PM
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Default Squeaky dampers

I just built a TLR 22 2.0 and the front dampers squeak when I compress them. The rears are fine. I used Protek Premier Blue on the x-rings, could that be the problem? Any other ideas?

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Old 07-22-2019, 03:58 PM
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Are you sure you got the guides in properly?
Primarily the bottom guide.
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Old 07-23-2019, 11:03 AM
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Rebuilt them yesterday. Guides are in properly. There is still a small squeak, but it is better. It isn't the whole stroke of the damper, just at a certain point. I am going to run them a couple times to see if it changes as they break in.

Thanks for the response.
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Old 07-24-2019, 05:23 PM
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  • In my 8EB4.0 I was thinking about getting different pistons, like two staged, or o-ringed type.
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Old 07-25-2019, 12:00 PM
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I'll give it a run and see what happens. It doesn't bind or anything, just makes noise. If it is a problem I'll have to get new parts and try a re-build in case I got some that were defective. Thanks for the ideas of what may be the problem.
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Old 07-30-2019, 10:54 PM
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Air bubbles inside?
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Old 07-31-2019, 10:34 AM
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If you are pulling them apart, try rolling the shock shafts across a flat surface. This can show any slight bends in the shafts.

Try bleeding the shocks too. Hold the shock compressed, undo the bleed screw, allow any oil or air to escape (make sure at least some oil comes out), replace the bleed screw then finally release the shock to allow it to extend.
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Old 07-31-2019, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
Air bubbles inside?
Aren't there always some air bubbles in emulsion dampers?
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Old 07-31-2019, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mushroomed View Post
If you are pulling them apart, try rolling the shock shafts across a flat surface. This can show any slight bends in the shafts.

Try bleeding the shocks too. Hold the shock compressed, undo the bleed screw, allow any oil or air to escape (make sure at least some oil comes out), replace the bleed screw then finally release the shock to allow it to extend.
I didn't think to check the shock shafts as they are brand new, but I will pull them apart and try that. I bled them properly I believe, but I'll be sure to follow your directions when I rebuild them again. Thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 07-31-2019, 06:01 PM
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You will need a small amount of air inside the shock with both emulsion or bladder type. The bladder just separates this air from the oil. If bladder is chosen, when setting up shocks with oil, work the piston and let sit until most of the air is out, top off so the oil beads over the brim and then install the cap, leave the bleeder screw tight. Emulsion shocks should be worked upside down several times before a race. Don’t try to remove all the air otherwise there will be too much pressure on a full stroke and can pop seals or the opposite can occur and cause vacuum and no rebound.
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Old 08-01-2019, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Juglenaut View Post
You will need a small amount of air inside the shock with both emulsion or bladder type. The bladder just separates this air from the oil. If bladder is chosen, when setting up shocks with oil, work the piston and let sit until most of the air is out, top off so the oil beads over the brim and then install the cap, leave the bleeder screw tight. Emulsion shocks should be worked upside down several times before a race. Donít try to remove all the air otherwise there will be too much pressure on a full stroke and can pop seals or the opposite can occur and cause vacuum and no rebound.
This is my first set of emulsion shocks. I appreciate the different tips you guys are giving me regarding setup. I'll re-build them again and see how it goes.

Thanks for the help
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Old 08-02-2019, 03:11 PM
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I rebuilt them again. The sound is gone for the most part. I haven't run the car yet, so I'll take it out and break the shocks in and see what that does.
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Old 08-08-2019, 08:45 AM
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Good luck, give the shocks a bleed regularly. For racing you could do this before every run, as the temperature of the air and oil will change how much air is in the shocks. If you aren't racing you can do this less often, but it is a quick and easy way to check your shocks and keep an eye on the oil levels inside.When i can't see any oil at the inside of the bleed screw, I know the shocks are overdue for more oil and a rebuild.
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