Push

It's been 20+ years since I left the hobby and I'm starting from scratch.

Lots of new stuff in that time - Mid-motor, LiPo, Brushless, Sensored, and clay becoming a standard are the major changes.

I'm looking for bang-for-your-buck type gear where possible, but I don't want to skimp where performance would be significantly diminished.

I plan on racing just 17.5 1/10 ebuggy to start, with the goal to begin running modified at some point, then branch into other scales and classes, and eventually some on-road and nitro.

This is what I've picked to start, I'm trying to keep the budget at or under 1,000. Let me know if you think that I should change something around, or if I'm forgetting something. When it comes to the new battery and motor/esc tech I'm kind of at a loss. And the brands that I used to run such as Novak, LRP, etc aren't around.

Losi 22 5.0 DC kit - After careful consideration I've decided to go back to Losi. The new 22 seems to be innovative.

Gens Ace 2S 5000mAh 50C x2 batteries - I think the price point for these batteries is good at just over 40. The 50C rating should be plenty for the stock class, and will make good practice batteries later when I branch out into other classes. Or, am I wrong in thinking this?

Protek Prodigy 680 Charger - Seems like a good value at less than 80, has the features that I want. Is ProTek a reputable brand? Are these chargers going to last? Or should I go up to something better that will give me more longevity? What should I go up to?

Tekin RS GEN 2 SPEC ESC - Is Tekin still a solid brand? Is this overkill for the stock class? Could I save money going with a motor/esc combo that's cheaper? Any thoughts on this ESC?

Tekin Redline Gen3 Spec-R 17.5 Motor - Again, I just picked this motor due to name recognition. Is there a better, cheaper option for 17.5? Does the motor have much of a difference on the track these days? I want to stay within ROAR specs.

Pro-Tek 100T Servo (could definitely use some advice on the servo) - Picked this due to price and torque rating. I know nothing about this company or this servo. Advise?

Futaba radio (base model 3PRKA) - I always like Futaba's. I've used other radios but I like the feel of Futaba, and I've never had a problem with them. Still make a good product? The price point is great at under 85.

I am going to get a transponder, as well.

Is there anything that I'm leaving out? I'm really concerned about the batteries and motor/esc combo. Hobbywing is a brand that I know nothing about but seems to be prominent in the hobby now. Tekin seems to be under the Horizon roof. Not sure about any of this stuff anymore. Please advise me!

EDITED** to ask about weights. It seems that ROAR has minimum weight of 1500g, and that drivers are placing weights on the chassis to change the weight distribution or meet spec. Should I start off with some brass weights with this kit?

Thanks,
Daniel

Darkstorm05

iTrader: (9)

I returned from a similar break late last year, and have a very similar setup. I started with a TLR 4.0. I use a similar Gens Ace battery(4600) and have no problems. Same with the Futaba TX/RX. I did start with a Tekin ESC and motor, and found it to be a spot I could have saved a ton on. When I expanded to a 2nd buggy, I just got a Hobbywing Justock for less than $60 shipped brand new. My Tekin stuff is great, but I don't use any of the settings in stock racing at all. Maybe a few years down the line if I get better at racing it will become a factor, but right now, no difference. I also picked up a couple used Reedy ESC's for my kids and as spares. 600/800/1000z. Cheap, reliable, nothing missing that we need for club level stock racing.

sweems

You may want to rethink the RS Spec esc if you want to run mod. That esc is only rated to a 13.5 motor. The RSX or RS Pro BE may be better long term solutions although they both add to the cost. The tekin is reliable I still use one of my original RS Pros from 08 or 09.

Push

OK, thanks. Man, it's tough getting back in. Those Gens Ace batteries seem like a strong value. I think based on what Sweems has said that I may go with a cheaper ESC, and then upgrade when I decide to go to modified. What did you end up doing for a charger? Did you guys also invest in some transponders for the track?

Thanks, sweems. I think when it's time to go to mod I'll probably invest in a better esc. For running stock for the next year or so, do you think that esc is a solid choice?

sweems

That ESC is fine for stock, I ran the RS Gen2 in my F1 for a couple of years never had a problem. That ESC is the same as the Spec except the programming.

I run multiple cars(6) so my equipment choices may not suit your situation. I use an icharger 406 and have transponders in all my cars for ease of use. No last minute running to swap after forgetting no getting to track and realizing the transponder is in a car at home.

Darkstorm05

iTrader: (9)

We run a Hitec X2 for our charger. I'd like one of the bigger badder chargers, but I can't justify the cost vs functionality gain. Multiple transponders though. I started out with 1, thinking we would just velcro them in and swap, but wow, that gets old after about the 2nd heat on day 1.

Chase1472

iTrader: (76)

I would possibly rethink battery/charger. If your racing at a Highly competitive track that has elite stock racers. The package you picked up will not be competitive. Everyone is using a iCharger 406 and doing 40AMP charge discharge to bring IR down. That method isn't needed for MOD however. But if I can recommend one thing get a Icharger 406. you will not need 2,3,4 lipos if you have one because you can charge a quality lipo pack in under 10mins. Less lipos less expense.

redmonster27

iTrader: (34)

If your going to get back in and stay I would invest in a little better radio system myself. Cars gear tools come and go but a good radio will be around for awhile Sanwa in my opinion is the brand to have

Push

That's a good point, and I totally agree. Definitely something to consider. But I'm really pushing my budget. I think when I plunge into the second kit I'll also pick up a nice radio that can save telemetry adjustments for multiple rides/tracks. Then, the cheap radio will serve as a solid emergency backup.

Wow, ok. So, the 406 can safely charge LiPo's very quickly without cell degradation? If that's the case then I would definitely shell out for one of those. I'll still pick up the second battery as a backup, but 10 minute charge times and less internal resistance sounds like a win-win combination.

Haha. Started out with one like "this will be fine".. then 500 dollars later one in each car and the kids cars! lol. One thing about the transponders, what's the different between the 2 wire and 3 wire? Which one should I get?

I guess I'll be picking up the iCharger. Chase said the same about the 406. So, does that charger allow you to charge quickly without the cells degrading?


Thanks for the input everyone. Such a great community.

redmonster27

iTrader: (34)

Cells degrade over time and the harder u charge and discharge them speeds up the process u could buy the new icharger x6 for about 100 bucks or get 2 of them and a power supply for less then a 406. And again if your blasting your batteries with high amperage they will degrade. I would still buy a good radio before the best charger most of us can't tell a difference in lipo performance anyway

Push

Ah, ok. That's what I thought. I don't know if it's really worth it, then. It is quite a significant jump in price and would put me well over my budget. Thanks for the input. I'll check out the x6, too.

killer rock

for stock racing do battery research. The speed of your rc is greatly affected by your batteries resistance. same goes for the batteries and speed controller. nick adams on you tube does some good testing in my option.

as far as hobby-wing vs tekin you can be just as competitive with either as demonstrated many time on my home track. most guys at my track feel tekin speed controllers are smother. but for many of them price is a bigger factor.

many of the sanwa remote controllers are superior to all futaba's remotes but the cost $$$ are greatly higher. i run futaba (4pls) i highly recommend not to get a remote inferior to it. 3prka is very very much inferior. and will leave you wanting more on the track. dont get me wrong. its a very good remote, and i would recommend to any one "bashing" aka not driving on the track.

motor wish not a bad choose, id refer you to nick adams videos again. till your all cot back up on tech changes i wouldn't spend the extra $$ on team motors. and if your looking for a good cheaper alternative motor trackstar 17.5t v2 very good and cheap. you can also pull the outer housing for better heat dissipation.

Push

Yep, I think you guys are right about the radio. Just thinking about it, even though I don't own more than one vehicle and won't for some time, I will be racing at multiple tracks. So, I should get a better radio. I'll watch more of Nick Adams content, I have subscribed to him the other day as he had some useful videos on tuning and dyno'ing brushless motors.

Thanks for answer the Hobby Wing question as well. Looks like we're going over budget..... lol

killer rock

Yes we all go over budget. But look at the bright side. If this was some kind of motor sport we be look at 600-1000 every time we when out. As expensive as the initial gun how is it's cheap hobby and sport. Good luck have fun.

Get something highly programmable you won't regret it.

sweems

The difference in the 2 and 3 wire transponders deals with the track's decoder box. The 3 wire transponders only work with RC4 decoder boxes, the 2 wire transponders work with the RC4 decoders and the older boxes still in use at many tracks, I've noticed more tracks upgrading and being compatible with the 3 wire. You need to check with your local track to make sure they have an RC4 decoder before buying the 3 wire. Also in the Radio and Electronics section there is a thread about the transponders with compatibility information.