E-FLITE BLADE CX2 CHAT
#31
NICE Thanks a lot I noticed that when I (stir the pot) right stick on the remote the lower blades turn (no good right) this is the Alum one I tried loobing it but it still kind of tight I will try the plastic one again. I switched because it kept coming apart even without crashing but I love this heli I am determined.
#32
I assume you meant 4-in-1. The CX2 doesn't use a 3-in-1. Check your swash movements as outlined in the manual (I think). Also check for proper rotation of the blades. Upper blades rotate counter-clockwise looking down at them from above, lowers rotate clockwise. Right motor in the upper port with the red wire up. Left motor in the lower port with the red wire down.
Good luck
Good luck
the cx2 has a 3 in 1, looking at it now. i think the cx has the 4 in 1. what about checking the mixxing pot for the motors? mine needed a bit of a tweek when i got it.
#33
Tech Rookie
hey guys I just made an account about an hour ago and I have a question on the cx2
I broke the lower blade holder
can someone explain a step by step prosess on how to replace it
an help would be great
thanks
jason
I broke the lower blade holder
can someone explain a step by step prosess on how to replace it
an help would be great
thanks
jason
#34
http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Su...rodID=EFLH1250
I stand half corrected. That'll teach me to buy the first one to hit the shelves.
#35
Right you are. Apparently, they switched to a 3-in-1 on units shipped after Aug 30 '07, as per this article;
http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Su...rodID=EFLH1250
I stand half corrected. That'll teach me to buy the first one to hit the shelves.
http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Su...rodID=EFLH1250
I stand half corrected. That'll teach me to buy the first one to hit the shelves.
#36
If so, the first thing to do is remove the skids and battery holder, by removing the 4 screws that are circled in red in the next pic. Then, remove the lower main gear by loosening the 2 screws indicated by the arrows:
Once the gear is removed, you can slide the upper head and inner shaft up and out of the outer shaft. Then slip the inner shaft bearing retainer off the outer shaft.
Once that's done, you can disconnect the swash links and unscrew and remove the lower blades. From there, it's a matter of unscrewing the lower head and sliding it up off the outer shaft.
Assembly is the reverse. Note the outer shaft has 2 holes in it. when you replace the lower head, make sure it's screws are lined up with those holes.
Hope that helps
#37
wow, nice instructions!
are you writing the manuals?
are you writing the manuals?
#38
Hehe, well this is just some of the type of stuff I do all day. I wish it were for something as fun as rc helis. I just happened to have needed to change the shaft retaining collar on that particular blade (stripped screw hole), so I hadda take it apart anyway, so I just did it during my mid-morning break. Throw it on the seamless, snap a couple quick pics, VIOLA!
#39
this CX2 is a blast, it is my first heli, probibly won't be my last one. gonna give a regular one a try by the summer. i have been flying around my house, outside, fighting the wind, that thing is easy to blow around! have only broken 4 sets of blades! mostly due to blade strikes.
would the CP be a good one to get?
would the CP be a good one to get?
#40
this CX2 is a blast, it is my first heli, probibly won't be my last one. gonna give a regular one a try by the summer. i have been flying around my house, outside, fighting the wind, that thing is easy to blow around! have only broken 4 sets of blades! mostly due to blade strikes.
would the CP be a good one to get?
would the CP be a good one to get?
I noticed that you recommended lots of simulator time to someone on the previous page, and that's excellent advice. I'll go ahead and repeat what I always say, though some people might get sick of reading it. Use the h3!! out of the sim and use your CX2 as a sort of real-time sim. Get nose in hovering down and then nose/side forward-flight/circuits down cold. Practice spot landing the CX on a cd case, taped off square, chalk outline, whatever, and keep practicing until you can do it nose in, side in, with no problems whatsoever. Once you get total and absolute control of the CX, in all orientations, flying a cp heli will be that much easier.
When you ask if "the CP" would be good, I guess you mean the Blade CP...? I started out with the Blade CP. It was my first heli and I had no sim, and no CX to practice with. It was more frustrating than I can put into words to learn to fly that thing.
The upside is;
1. They're cheap!...however you may spend several times the purchase price in repairs. With some people, something just clicks though, and they do fine with it.
2. Once you can fly the blade cp, you can fly anything (IMO).
Once I got to the point that I could sorta fly the BCP, I bought a t-rex. The setup/build is a bit more complicated, but flying a heli with a belt driven tail is ridiculously easy in comparison. Having the tail rotor and the main rotor mechanically connected, just makes for a MUCH more pleasant experience, as opposed to having a separate little motor that is prone to overheating and failure, struggling to drive the tail. All it takes is a little inconsistency from the tail motor, and if you're not prepared for it, it's all over. That's where having nose-in orientation down, becomes really important. I still have my original blade cp and a cp pro2 that someone gave me, and after owning/flying several other helis, I can come back to the BCPs and fly them easily now, but I'd still say the BCP is one of the biggest pieces of crap on the market. If you find that you just can't resist buying a BCP, at least go for the BCP Pro2. It's just slightly less crappy.
With that said, I'd say get something with a belt driven tail, and with local parts support. The 500-600 sized electrics, would be very nice to learn on IMO, but are pretty pricey. AMA membership is also a must with a heli of that size, cuz you'll want that insurance available. If you haven't already invested in any radio equipment, want to buy new, and just want to get your feet wet, I still say the Blade 400 is the way to go. Otherwise you can sometimes find a bargain from a frustrated beginner that just wants out, or someone that's moving up. Most of the ARF 450s are near the same price as one another ($200+), and are just gonna cost a buncha money to set up, and it's not like you're going to be doing any hardcore 3D right away. Of course, you may just turn out to be some kinda prodigy.
+ YouTube Video | |
#41
that video is just wrong! lol. thats some awesome flying.
my LHS says the same thing about the BCP, not to get it, get the blade 400 at least. he even has one there he will sell me! how convienient i have been practicing with it, flew over to the nieghbor's today and landed on his AC unit and flew back, only 40 feet or so, but i did not walk with it, sat on my steps. the nose in flying is a pain, i keep getting the side to side mixxed up, and forward and back. that's what spare blades are for!
my LHS says the same thing about the BCP, not to get it, get the blade 400 at least. he even has one there he will sell me! how convienient i have been practicing with it, flew over to the nieghbor's today and landed on his AC unit and flew back, only 40 feet or so, but i did not walk with it, sat on my steps. the nose in flying is a pain, i keep getting the side to side mixxed up, and forward and back. that's what spare blades are for!
#42
Tech Rookie
thanks a ton man
I have a nother prob
my cx2 is always going forward rather agresevly with the trim set all the way back
help would be great
jason
I have a nother prob
my cx2 is always going forward rather agresevly with the trim set all the way back
help would be great
jason
#43
First, with your transmitter turned on and the trims of the right stick (mode 2 USA) set to neutral, connect the battery to your CX and make sure that both servo horns are in a "close to horizontal" position. If they are off by ~15° or more, you may have to remove the screw and center the servo horn.
Basically if the heli is pushing forward, remove the ball link from the left side of the swashplate (the linkage that goes to the left servo, looking at the heli from the rear) and screw it further onto it's linkage (clockwise looking at it from above) a half turn and carefully snap it back onto the swashplate. Power the heli up and see if it needs further adjustment. Keep adjusting it a half turn at a time, until you can hover with the trim as close to center as possible. If this takes a lot of adjustment, it may affect the side to side (aileron) trim. In that case the heli may want to drift left, so you would disconnect the link on the right side of the swash and screw it further onto it's linkage a half turn at a time until it hovers with the trim close to center.
Give that a try and see if it works for you. If it doesn't you may have a swashplate issue.
Hey a thought just struck me. Did it push forward like that before you replaced the lower head, or has it just started since then?
#44
Tech Rookie
thanks I will try that
and ya it just started to happen when I got the aluminum
and ya it just started to happen when I got the aluminum
#45
added lights to my CX2. look for ufo news around Tampa!!