OFFICIAL BOAT THREAD!
05-31-2007, 10:30 PM
#46
WOW just saw this thread and i do get into my boats, and cars,ac,heli so on so on.....im addicted,,, yes ive seen sv27rtr $545.00Aus
one word JETSPRINT
But just thought i would share my newest boat with all its a ripper....talk about handle and im working on a lipo-brushless conversion to kneeboard, 25kg of thrust.....a bit exe but a lot of fun, and this is where you can get one.
www.swashdrive.com.au
one word JETSPRINT
But just thought i would share my newest boat with all its a ripper....talk about handle and im working on a lipo-brushless conversion to kneeboard, 25kg of thrust.....a bit exe but a lot of fun, and this is where you can get one.
www.swashdrive.com.au
06-02-2007, 10:23 AM
#48
Enjoyed a really good run with my hydroplane this morning. Loved the look of it skipping across the water, shooting up a rooster tail. Turns real nice under full power too. We have a nice long pond and its only a few blocks from home. Good place to run the boat. I'll be back at it this evening.
06-05-2007, 07:00 PM
#50
Ran the boat tonight with 2 Orion Carbon 3200 lipo's wired in series. The boat really comes to life with them. Much snapier from a standstill to get up on a plane with the lighter weight. I seem to be getting an audience every time I take my boat to the pond, another guy comes over and asks where he can get one too. I guess this is how it all starts.
06-13-2007, 04:07 PM
#53
06-15-2007, 09:50 AM
#55
Things are going good. I had to replace the servo, I think the water damage finally got to it. That time I ran it with the hatch not taped down (ran out of tape) and it sunk. I guess corrossion eventually damaged the actual motor in the servo. It looked like it was getting corroded and stopped working. Luckily HS225mg's are not expensive and work well. I sealed up the new one with silicone before installing it. I doubt I'll ever have another incident like I described. Totally my fault for continuing testing without taping the hatch down.
I picked up some brass tubing to do brush cooling. There presently isn't enough clearance beneath the motor to have a cooling coil. Not unless I dremel away some of the plastic motor mount beneath the can.
How long will this wire drive last? One guy on the net who has a H & M viper said flex drives are better for hydo's as there is too much bend near the transom for a wire drive. What do you think? I don't think the wire bends much at all, as the prop shaft is only slightly below the prop strut bushing before you slide it in. Can't be much bend?
Did you make the 1/16 wire drive or did you buy it already made up? I'm thinking of picking up a spare prop or two. I want to try the graupner carbon filled plastic props, as they are cheap and don't require balancing or sharpening. Would be good to have a spare just in case.
I've also ordered a lipo cutoff that I'll wire into the esc to protect the lipo's. I know Im not running them down too far, but I'd like to have a safety net with a cutout. I like the lipo's. The boat is faster and quicker to get going with them.
I picked up some brass tubing to do brush cooling. There presently isn't enough clearance beneath the motor to have a cooling coil. Not unless I dremel away some of the plastic motor mount beneath the can.
How long will this wire drive last? One guy on the net who has a H & M viper said flex drives are better for hydo's as there is too much bend near the transom for a wire drive. What do you think? I don't think the wire bends much at all, as the prop shaft is only slightly below the prop strut bushing before you slide it in. Can't be much bend?
Did you make the 1/16 wire drive or did you buy it already made up? I'm thinking of picking up a spare prop or two. I want to try the graupner carbon filled plastic props, as they are cheap and don't require balancing or sharpening. Would be good to have a spare just in case.
I've also ordered a lipo cutoff that I'll wire into the esc to protect the lipo's. I know Im not running them down too far, but I'd like to have a safety net with a cutout. I like the lipo's. The boat is faster and quicker to get going with them.
06-15-2007, 10:15 AM
#56
no problem with wiredrives. A they are less rotating mass B. the driveline is 1000% smoother and runs more efficently . unless you go all donky kong. and put a severe + or - tilt on the prop . wich you dont. nor need. then wire drives suffer.
i have never had a issue with a wire drive. and i got it premade. you can find them online and such. i belive you just have to trim to length.
stick with the wire drive. as even if you wanted to switch youd have to tear the boat up . and put in a new stuffing tube. which you probably. wont to do. and i wouldnt fix what isnt broken.
the servo. probably got its last dose of dousage. lmao...
you should take out the new servo and put some electroplate in it. it makes the electronics water resistant. and will take a few good soakings.
then coat the whole servo case in a light thing of silicone
and then put grease on the output shaft.
i wouldnt worry about a cooling coil around the motor. if temps arent bad. but the brushes id definatly do. and keep on top of bushings.. oiling and cleaning and such.
like i said. if you ever have any questions. just give me a ringy dingy.
take care and happy boating
i have never had a issue with a wire drive. and i got it premade. you can find them online and such. i belive you just have to trim to length.
stick with the wire drive. as even if you wanted to switch youd have to tear the boat up . and put in a new stuffing tube. which you probably. wont to do. and i wouldnt fix what isnt broken.
the servo. probably got its last dose of dousage. lmao...
you should take out the new servo and put some electroplate in it. it makes the electronics water resistant. and will take a few good soakings.
then coat the whole servo case in a light thing of silicone
and then put grease on the output shaft.
i wouldnt worry about a cooling coil around the motor. if temps arent bad. but the brushes id definatly do. and keep on top of bushings.. oiling and cleaning and such.
like i said. if you ever have any questions. just give me a ringy dingy.
take care and happy boating
06-16-2007, 07:28 PM
#57
It to hot to be racing inside right now, so I went and got a boat, the one I picked up was sitting at the hobbyshop since it opened 6 years a ago. I got a kyosho speed vee 800, it was cheap but it seemed like a nice basic boat to mess around with for on a budget. Has anyone used on of these before, I was just looking for a top speed.
06-16-2007, 08:43 PM
#58
expect to see around 10 to 15 mph
for more performance and better reliablilty.
the most important upgrade would be the outboard.
i find alot of people using the ob from the aquacraft profisherman.
its metal .. gear drive. and has a nice racing style lower unit.
get one of those and couple it with a 600size motor and 10 cells and your off.. probably around mid 20s
ive owned one and they are nice units
for more performance and better reliablilty.
the most important upgrade would be the outboard.
i find alot of people using the ob from the aquacraft profisherman.
its metal .. gear drive. and has a nice racing style lower unit.
get one of those and couple it with a 600size motor and 10 cells and your off.. probably around mid 20s
ive owned one and they are nice units
06-16-2007, 09:34 PM
#59
This pic will not last long, I will fix it tonight. Anyone know if a good place to race elec. in so cal?
The boat has x447's, turn fin/dive plane combo, and grubner U-joints. Asie form the water cooling, everything else is stock.
The boat has x447's, turn fin/dive plane combo, and grubner U-joints. Asie form the water cooling, everything else is stock.
Last edited by SocalSnakeEyes; 06-18-2007 at 12:54 AM.
