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Relax guys, lots of tracks limit the batteries on indoor 1/8 cars. It's certainly not new.
The Rx8 is the clear choice for ESC, but motor wise you have a few options: 1. Go with a 3s and T8i 2700kv 2. Go 2s with a Pro4 HD 4300kv 3. Convince the local track that 4s is more efficient and simply follow the 1/8 "Lite" class rules I posted a few years back(you can Google it). Simply run 4s and limit the KV and diameter of the motors being used to reduce power, etc. |
So for outdoor large tracks, running 4s....is the 1900 still the normal motor found in top level drivers cars? Or have the new 2000, 2050 and 2100kv motors proven to be better choices for 4s outdoor tracks? |
Originally Posted by PorTX
(Post 15398373)
So for outdoor large tracks, running 4s....is the 1900 still the normal motor found in top level drivers cars? Or have the new 2000, 2050 and 2100kv motors proven to be better choices for 4s outdoor tracks? Motor Length: 4030 Buggy 69mm / 2.71" 4038 Truggy 77mm / 3.03" |
Originally Posted by PorTX
(Post 15398373)
So for outdoor large tracks, running 4s....is the 1900 still the normal motor found in top level drivers cars? Or have the new 2000, 2050 and 2100kv motors proven to be better choices for 4s outdoor tracks? |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 15399043)
I prefer the 1900kv. Some like the 2050.
I think that is what people would be interested in and we might learn things to consider that some of us hadn't thought of. |
That is what I was trying to learn. I am thinking the 1900 might have a smoother powerband? If the 2050 just had more top end I could see the top level guys wanting that. However, wheel spin is always an issue with outdoor 1/8 racing so a flater torque curve would make the power more predictable? Who knows? Seems to be a question very few want to tackle?
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1900 is a why wind, 2050 is a delta wind. imo, delta is sometimes a bit harsh.
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Originally Posted by ta_man
(Post 15399383)
Saying "I prefer" implies you have a reason. Would you share your reason(s)?
I think that is what people would be interested in and we might learn things to consider that some of us hadn't thought of. |
Randy,
I was curious. I had 2 gen 2 rx8's go dead on me after hard landings at the new Nitro Compound track and it kept me from running their first nitro warm up race. I have since obtained a new rx8 gen 3 and was instructed to use zeal tape under it and also to open the case and add a layer of servo tape under the board. Is that last step really needed? Thanks for any input. |
Originally Posted by azdakota97
(Post 15400597)
Randy,
I was curious. I had 2 gen 2 rx8's go dead on me after hard landings at the new Nitro Compound track and it kept me from running their first nitro warm up race. I have since obtained a new rx8 gen 3 and was instructed to use zeal tape under it and also to open the case and add a layer of servo tape under the board. Is that last step really needed? Thanks for any input. |
Opening up the case to add extra support was a Gen 1 trick. Definitely isn't needed anymore and might even stress the components more.
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Awesome. Glad to hear that. I didn't really want to. Thank you for the quick replies!
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Note: This question relates to the RX8 Gen I, that I have put in a RX8 Gen 2 case, but this RX8 thread is more active. Also, this question might be a generic ESC mounting questions as well.
I have a Losi SCTE, but I'm running it with an 1/8 scale buggy body, Badlands MX28 wheels, Tenshock SC411 4700kv, 11t pinion, Gensace 2s 5000mah 50c. My RX8 Gen 1 case started to crack about about 18 months after I installed it, then I moved and stopped using my SCTE for a few years. About a month ago I started repairing and upgrading my truck and that included replacing the cracked Gen 1 case with a new Gen 2 case. I had to open up the hole for fan plug a little, but other than than everything went together smoothly. I had previously learned that double sided tape does not hold very well, so I fastened the ESC to the plastic mount with small screws from below into the supplied mounting holes on the case. I ran a few packs through it on flat ground doing some tuning and testing. Then yesterday I took it to a dirt jump track and after three modest jumps (landing on the down slope from about 4'-0" high) the Gen 2 case completely cracked in half and appears to have separated the boards inside. See attached photos. My questions are as follows.
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Originally Posted by Apexscalpel
(Post 15401136)
Note: This question relates to the RX8 Gen I, that I have put in a RX8 Gen 2 case, but this RX8 thread is more active. Also, this question might be a generic ESC mounting questions as well.
I have a Losi SCTE, but I'm running it with an 1/8 scale buggy body, Badlands MX28 wheels, Tenshock SC411 4700kv, 11t pinion, Gensace 2s 5000mah 50c. My RX8 Gen 1 case started to crack about about 18 months after I installed it, then I moved and stopped using my SCTE for a few years. About a month ago I started repairing and upgrading my truck and that included replacing the cracked Gen 1 case with a new Gen 2 case. I had to open up the hole for fan plug a little, but other than than everything went together smoothly. I had previously learned that double sided tape does not hold very well, so I fastened the ESC to the plastic mount with small screws from below into the supplied mounting holes on the case. I ran a few packs through it on flat ground doing some tuning and testing. Then yesterday I took it to a dirt jump track and after three modest jumps (landing on the down slope from about 4'-0" high) the Gen 2 case completely cracked in half and appears to have separated the boards inside. See attached photos. My questions are as follows.
At the very least, don't toss the esc. Tekin offers the ability to send in your old RX8 in any condition for a discount on a brand new Gen3 RX8. I want to say it would be about $140 to exchange your broken setup for a Gen3, which is way more durable than the gen1 or 2. |
if i decrease brake strength but increase rpm brake that should lower the high speed braking but keep the low speed close to where it is now , right?
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