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-   -   Types of Solder? (https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/974347-types-solder.html)

lexyp 01-18-2017 09:25 AM


Originally Posted by Eric Bryant (Post 14806455)
My first thought is that maybe the wire has an enamel insulation coating. While I haven't come across that in battery leads, it's common in low-voltage audio cables (such as for headphones and microphones), and of course we see it all the time in motors.

My second thought is that the wire isn't copper.

I'd start by separating the wire into separate strands, and then gently scrape or sand the surface to remove any insulation or oxidization. If it has an insulation coating, you can also use heat to remove it (a solder pot is preferable, but I've used a small butane torch as a field-expedient methods); just be careful not to overheat the battery cell itself!

Yeah, the sandpaper is a good idea. Never heard of the enamel insulation coating before tho. Regardless of what material the wire was, since it was a battery lead, they had to have soldered it somehow before I cut it. No way I would've used a butane torch considering how short the leads are on those small lipos. Some things just aren't worth the risk. ;)

EbbTide 01-18-2017 09:44 AM


Originally Posted by jiml (Post 14806544)
I was under the impression that the only solder you can get is lead free. Am I wrong? Gotta love RoHS :mad:

This is the stuff I use. As far as I know it's proper leaded solder ;)

http://www.frys.com/product/5841933?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

lexyp 01-18-2017 02:15 PM


Originally Posted by EbbTide (Post 14806634)
This is the stuff I use. As far as I know it's proper leaded solder ;)

http://www.frys.com/product/5841933?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

I miss Frys. Wish they would expand to the east coast.
MG Chem. makes a nice conformal coating I use to waterproof all my electronics.

EbbTide 01-18-2017 02:28 PM


Originally Posted by lexyp (Post 14806951)
I miss Frys. Wish they would expand to the east coast.
MG Chem. makes a nice conformal coating I use to waterproof all my electronics.

I would be lost without a frys near me lol. I get all my solder accessories from them. MG also makes awesome solder wick. I prefer it over a pump

lexyp 01-18-2017 06:38 PM


Originally Posted by EbbTide (Post 14806959)
I would be lost without a frys near me lol. I get all my solder accessories from them. MG also makes awesome solder wick. I prefer it over a pump

Yeah, just rub it in, why doncha? :)
They do get sketchy sometimes and you have to watch out for the open box returns they try to seal up sometimes with a bit too much tape. Do they think we don't notice??
Solder wick looks fascinating and I'm still waiting for an opportunity to try it. You must do work on your receivers and escs as well to have experience with it?

EbbTide 01-18-2017 06:50 PM


Originally Posted by lexyp (Post 14807227)
Yeah, just rub it in, why doncha? :)
They do get sketchy sometimes and you have to watch out for the open box returns they try to seal up sometimes with a bit too much tape. Do they think we don't notice??
Solder wick looks fascinating and I'm still waiting for an opportunity to try it. You must do work on your receivers and escs as well to have experience with it?

Lol yeah I hear you on that. Which is why I try to not buy anything major there. So laptops, video cards and pc components I usually get from Newegg or Amazon. Mostly I shop there for accessories. Like zip ties, hook and loop, wire retainers etc.

I've never worked on a receiver before but I've had to desolder countless terminals on ESC's and the wick makes it a cleaner removal. Sometimes with a pump it creates little solder peaks that require reheating. And with the wick you just cut off a strip and slide it between the terminal and the iron and it soaks it up like a sponge.

It's also useful to remove excess solder if you used too much for pre-tinning because you can better regulate the amount of solder you remove. You end up with just enough solder to cover the posts.

Advent 01-18-2017 07:54 PM


Originally Posted by lexyp (Post 14805734)
lead solder rosin core (standard stuff). 60w iron on full. basically the same combo i usually use on 10awg wires, but wouldn't work in that particular circumstance on a thin wire for a 250mah lipo. didn't try to break up the threads...maybe do that next time.

Your soldering iron is too hot. Oxidation happens faster at higher heat and you're burning the flux, preventing it from doing its job. I'm assuming your iron has an adjustable temperature because you said you use it on full. Set your iron for 550˚F to 600˚F (290˚C to 320˚C).

lexyp 01-20-2017 05:49 PM


Originally Posted by Advent (Post 14807316)
Your soldering iron is too hot. Oxidation happens faster at higher heat and you're burning the flux, preventing it from doing its job. I'm assuming your iron has an adjustable temperature because you said you use it on full. Set your iron for 550˚F to 600˚F (290˚C to 320˚C).

It was on full really as a last resort. I first tried it at the temps you suggested when i noticed something "fishy" with that particular wire. I was hoping to burn off whatever may have been on it with the temps on full solution.

lexyp 01-20-2017 05:53 PM


Originally Posted by EbbTide (Post 14807240)
Lol yeah I hear you on that. Which is why I try to not buy anything major there. So laptops, video cards and pc components I usually get from Newegg or Amazon. Mostly I shop there for accessories. Like zip ties, hook and loop, wire retainers etc.

I've never worked on a receiver before but I've had to desolder countless terminals on ESC's and the wick makes it a cleaner removal. Sometimes with a pump it creates little solder peaks that require reheating. And with the wick you just cut off a strip and slide it between the terminal and the iron and it soaks it up like a sponge.

It's also useful to remove excess solder if you used too much for pre-tinning because you can better regulate the amount of solder you remove. You end up with just enough solder to cover the posts.

Nice, I'll openly admit that my solder joints are not as clean as yours. ;)

platgof 01-20-2017 07:00 PM

i use Alpha Metals 63/37 .062 diameter. I like the .062 diameter, easier to use.

racer1812 01-20-2017 07:16 PM


Originally Posted by Advent (Post 14807316)
Your soldering iron is too hot. Oxidation happens faster at higher heat and you're burning the flux, preventing it from doing its job. I'm assuming your iron has an adjustable temperature because you said you use it on full. Set your iron for 550˚F to 600˚F (290˚C to 320˚C).

:weird::rolleyes:


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