Quality batteries for racing.
#1
Quality batteries for racing.
I have done stock class 17.5 offroad racing for a few years off and on over the last decade. I am now doing 17.5 carpet racing as well as onroad parking lot 21.5 and 25.5 racing. 2S hard case batteries. I am ANAL about storing my batteries at 3.85v they are never more than a few hours at charge. in all this time I have NEVER had a single battery that didnt puff in less than a year. I have tried several brands. SMC, Hobby king, and some $$$packs in the past I forget the name to. in that same time I have had 30 soft pack air batteries and I maybe lose a couple to puffing. my latest batch of HK batteries are all puffed after maybe 4 months.
does anyone make a hard case pack that isnt total dog S$%^
does anyone make a hard case pack that isnt total dog S$%^
#2
Tech Master
iTrader: (81)
Hmmm I never store mine I only keep them around 3.8-9
U get what u pay for both smc and hk r on the lower side
Plus lots of factors some pack case's r smaller so a little puffing will happen
Charging to much or not a good charger
Nitro pro or nothing bro
U get what u pay for both smc and hk r on the lower side
Plus lots of factors some pack case's r smaller so a little puffing will happen
Charging to much or not a good charger
Nitro pro or nothing bro
Last edited by Goof; 11-27-2023 at 11:41 PM.
#4
I have done stock class 17.5 offroad racing for a few years off and on over the last decade. I am now doing 17.5 carpet racing as well as onroad parking lot 21.5 and 25.5 racing. 2S hard case batteries. I am ANAL about storing my batteries at 3.85v they are never more than a few hours at charge. in all this time I have NEVER had a single battery that didnt puff in less than a year. I have tried several brands. SMC, Hobby king, and some $$$packs in the past I forget the name to. in that same time I have had 30 soft pack air batteries and I maybe lose a couple to puffing. my latest batch of HK batteries are all puffed after maybe 4 months.
does anyone make a hard case pack that isnt total dog S$%^
does anyone make a hard case pack that isnt total dog S$%^
Frankly speaking, it's physically impossible to lose so many packs in such a short amount of time through normal usage.
Please revise your battery usage habits before buying any more packs.
#5
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
If you're losing nearly all your packs to puffing, you are abusing your packs quite badly. You're either subjecting them to extreme temperatures or you're discharging them below 2.9v every run.
Frankly speaking, it's physically impossible to lose so many packs in such a short amount of time through normal usage.
Please revise your battery usage habits before buying any more packs.
Frankly speaking, it's physically impossible to lose so many packs in such a short amount of time through normal usage.
Please revise your battery usage habits before buying any more packs.
#6
#7
Scrap your charger and charge leads.
Balance boards and plugs don't last forever, and easily corrode, giving false readings. There's only one viable charger in racing for a reason.
I suspect crash damage as well.
Consider switching to brands your competition uses.
Balance boards and plugs don't last forever, and easily corrode, giving false readings. There's only one viable charger in racing for a reason.
I suspect crash damage as well.
Consider switching to brands your competition uses.
#8
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
I no longer race 1/10 stock, but the only battery I grew to trust was the Trinity White Carbon series.
There's a guy over here who did a bunch of comparison testing among budget brands to consider as well:
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads...9/post-1368906
There's a guy over here who did a bunch of comparison testing among budget brands to consider as well:
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads...9/post-1368906
#9
That comparison test shows that guy charges at 30 amps and discharges at 35 amps. Just pointing tat out since people say never to charge at higher amps. I will agree that 30 amps seems a bit high but I10-20 amps seems fine as long as battery health is being monitored and the battery isn't being physically abused.
#10
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
If you want to be competitive in stock racing, then you need to pump your batteries, I pump mine at 40A to get the lowest possible IR, more info here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blWFtoiqEaE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blWFtoiqEaE
#11
Charging batteries at that rate needs to stop. It's outdated information that unfortunately keeps circling around for some reason. Lipos are not NIMH batteries; where you could get better performance by "pumping".
The better packs are able to hold a higher voltage under load and have a lower IR from the factory.
The better packs are able to hold a higher voltage under load and have a lower IR from the factory.
#12
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
Charging batteries at that rate needs to stop. It's outdated information that unfortunately keeps circling around for some reason. Lipos are not NIMH batteries; where you could get better performance by "pumping".
The better packs are able to hold a higher voltage under load and have a lower IR from the factory.
The better packs are able to hold a higher voltage under load and have a lower IR from the factory.
I love it when my competitors refuse to pump, then I get the advantage
#13
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
If you want to be competitive in stock racing, then you need to pump your batteries, I pump mine at 40A to get the lowest possible IR, more info here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blWFtoiqEaE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blWFtoiqEaE
#14
agreed that 90% of people do not NEED this. People may want all the speed they can get but at the end of the day not everyone can handle it effectively. Set up should always be the number thing. Imagine every speed secret but your alignment and camber is out of wack. What most people probably need to do is time and gear their motor effectively, like in that video. Get the most out of your motor before destroying your battery before no real gains. I laugh at all the low fixed timed motors in 17.5 blinky. That’s a way bigger advantage than 30 up 30 down.
#15
I usually charge at 1C sometimes as high as 2c but its rare. they have been stored in my garage which gets hot in the summer. but my air packs are there too and they dont puff. the latest 2 packs I stored in my bedroom to make sure they dont get hot and they still puffed. I really dont want to have to spend over $100 for a 2s battery. where can you even buy a 2s trinity stick pack? its looking like they stopped selling batteries.