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-   -   Weird Radio Behavior (https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/892394-weird-radio-behavior.html)

jbsmith05 09-17-2015 05:08 PM


Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer (Post 14187560)
As I was reading through this thread, I was going to suggest that you check your connections to the motor because it sounded like you might have had a poor solder joint.

Since you are using bullet connectors between the speed control and motor, you obviously have checked those. If you continue to have intermittent issues, make sure there are no loose connections from the wire to the actual bullet connectors.

Because you are using the vehicle to make jumps, a bad solder joint would eventually come loose. Also a poor electrical connection will cause the wire/connectors to heat up due to the resistance at that point in the circuit.

Interesting - I'll have to now check this because tonight it ran fine for about 20 min...then did the same jerking/cogging thing. I reversed the wires and back then it worked again???? :confused:

Geezatec 09-18-2015 08:11 AM


Originally Posted by jbsmith05 (Post 14187887)
Interesting - I'll have to now check this because tonight it ran fine for about 20 min...then did the same jerking/cogging thing. I reversed the wires and back then it worked again???? :confused:

Have to ask you couple of things. Can you post photo of wiring(motor & ESC)? And what do use for battery charger. 20min time of running, Plenty of speed runs, or a lot of bashing.

Dave H 09-18-2015 09:35 AM


Originally Posted by jbsmith05 (Post 14187887)
Interesting - I'll have to now check this because tonight it ran fine for about 20 min...then did the same jerking/cogging thing. I reversed the wires and back then it worked again???? :confused:

Sure sounds like just a classic loose connector issue. Problem occurred, then by taking them apart and resetting the connection was restored. At least for a little while. Replace with new good quality connectors or better yet eliminate the connectors and wire direct.

jbsmith05 09-18-2015 09:36 AM


Originally Posted by Geezatec (Post 14188545)
Have to ask you couple of things. Can you post photo of wiring(motor & ESC)? And what do use for battery charger. 20min time of running, Plenty of speed runs, or a lot of bashing.

Charger is a Thunder AC6, batteries are SPC LiPo 65c 5000maH. Mostly just running around in the driveway and street for these testing. No bashing. Battery sent the problem as I've tried multiple and it does the same thing.

The wires aren't bent at severe angles even though you can't really tell from this pic.

https://copy.com/Y8tuD2Dp0fE0Pw4a

jbsmith05 09-18-2015 09:40 AM


Originally Posted by Dave H (Post 14188681)
Sure sounds like just a classic loose connector issue. Problem occurred, then by taking them apart and resetting the connection was restored. At least for a little while. Replace with new good quality connectors or better yet eliminate the connectors and wire direct.

Thanks. What connectors would you recommend... I've never had issues with this type before.

Geezatec 09-18-2015 12:32 PM

Bullet connector shouldn't have too much problems.

AC6 Charger, good charger. I use the BC6 charger. Basically they're the same charger. After 20min run, I'd like to know what voltage your battery reading, when it start to cog. Take reading not with a DVM, a reading on your charger. Set charger to discharge, connect battery lead & Balancing, Start discharge the press the INC button. It should read the individual cell reading.

Thanks JB!!

Dave H 09-18-2015 04:50 PM


Originally Posted by jbsmith05 (Post 14188692)
Thanks. What connectors would you recommend... I've never had issues with this type before.

I recommend direct wiring for the motor. Much more reliable. If connectors are needed then they need to be checked and maintained regularly.

In either case watch for strain damage to the wiring just before the connections to whatever. Typically connectors have and need that section shrink wrapped just like your picture. The wrap can hide this common wiring failure, and this could also be your issue. Try flexing the wire a bit right as it connects to the connectors, see if any seem flimsier than the others.

Most direct wiring leaves the end exposed which helps with detection. Of course the exposed ends can be a risk for shorting from unexpected contact, but most don't have issues. Just something to be aware of.

jbsmith05 09-19-2015 05:38 PM


Originally Posted by Geezatec (Post 14188878)
Bullet connector shouldn't have too much problems.

AC6 Charger, good charger. I use the BC6 charger. Basically they're the same charger. After 20min run, I'd like to know what voltage your battery reading, when it start to cog. Take reading not with a DVM, a reading on your charger. Set charger to discharge, connect battery lead & Balancing, Start discharge the press the INC button. It should read the individual cell reading.

Thanks JB!!

happened 5 min in with a full battery...

Nonetheless here' are your pictures - after it was charged...and in discharge mode just after it happened.

Just charged:
https://copy.com/L1CCLMPYJuJeZfmE

Just after it happened in discharge mode:
https://copy.com/nvlIfsuapaIMPHcV



Also a video of what it does when it happens.

https://youtu.be/-M0Gr4qOyBI

jbsmith05 09-19-2015 05:40 PM


Originally Posted by Dave H (Post 14189148)
I recommend direct wiring for the motor. Much more reliable. If connectors are needed then they need to be checked and maintained regularly.

In either case watch for strain damage to the wiring just before the connections to whatever. Typically connectors have and need that section shrink wrapped just like your picture. The wrap can hide this common wiring failure, and this could also be your issue. Try flexing the wire a bit right as it connects to the connectors, see if any seem flimsier than the others.

Most direct wiring leaves the end exposed which helps with detection. Of course the exposed ends can be a risk for shorting from unexpected contact, but most don't have issues. Just something to be aware of.

I think you might be right - as when it happened today when I wiggled the wires it started working. Granted I don't know if its the connectors, or the endpoints at the esc or motor.

Geezatec 09-19-2015 07:52 PM

Probably 4mm bullet connectors.

Since ESC & motor are new, where did you purchase it. You can exchange the motor for new. Or if you're good solderer you can change all three wires. Your LHS should have what you need.

Put the car on a brick and give it throttle, wiggle wires one by one, you'll know what wire to change.

jbsmith05 09-20-2015 04:15 AM

I just saw that the esc has a thermal overload protection...not that is it? I mean the motor is warm enough to the touch after a lot of speed runs you don't want to keep holding it but not skin melting hot.

Geezatec 09-20-2015 08:16 AM

If thermal it normal after it cool down after 15min or so. I would think its thermal if the state of an LED Changes, maybe to red. Heat of ESC and motor may seem the motor working to hard. Heat on motor critical, especially brushless. Your pinion maybe too small, at 16t. 16t would of been good with brushed motor. maybe a 22t pinion is better for you. Speed you'll gain ,I wouldn't go 28t pinion it may cog more.

jbsmith05 10-10-2015 12:19 PM

Sorry it has taken me so long to report back...I just had the chance to do some work on this. I replaced the motor to esc bullets that came with the combo pack with some 4mm Tekin bullets. That seems to have fixed the issue - I just ran it hard on the road and front yard in the rain and had no issues at all.

In looking at the old bullets - they are the swivel kind...not sure why you'd make them like that. And there was some corrosion on them but I'm guessing its the swivel that was causing it.

Thanks for all the help! So as of now - I'm assuming it's fixed.


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