1101

Savox. (Or futaba if you have lots of spare cash :-) )
Theres nothing worse than a bad/flaky servo.
Over the years Ive tried many cheap servos, never had any real luck with them.
Not a hater, just what Ive found. The Turnigy 1258TG was the last straw, went flaky on the first race I used it. From now on I'll buy savox.
But in saying that, I used to use Ko_propro servos: very expensive(approx $80-$120 each). They all failed (5 of them) except their budget one , thats alot of $

Not a hater, I still buy alot of Hobbyking stuff. Just not the HK car servos. The plane servo's Ive bought a ton of those .

With my Xcar esc, I did find that some firmware made it run backwards. Very strange but easily fixable with other firmware.

1101

I need to buy some HK shorty lipo packs.
Should I get the standard nano, the A-Spec or the ultimate ?
Ive read that the A-spec wernt much better (but dont cost much more now)
The standard nano shorty are the lightest .

Mwildmann

iTrader: (8)

This past monday i placed an order for a build i'm finishing. It shipped out that day from the international warehouse and DHL Express was the carrier. It was on my doorstep wednesday afternoon! Bravo HK for finally contracting with a quality carrier! I dont even get stuff that quick from the USA warehouse! Very impressed right now.

Now I have a question. Got everything hooked up and working. Im running a DX2L tx, GR300 rx, Trackstar 120a SC ESC (Gen. 1) with a Turnigy 3674 2200kv motor. I cannot, for the life of me, get the damn ESC to calibrate. Read the instructions and troubleshooting multiple times. Anyone got any tips? Thanks.

kvrc

iTrader: (10)

I outfitted my B5R buggy with all trackstar components and can't be happier. 120a genII esc, 17.5 roar motor, TS 920 servo and shorty battery. Ive been buying their batteries for years now and have a turnigy charger so it's not my first experience with them.
Car really pulls hard in stock blinky mode and servo is very smooth and strong.
I do have a question. I'm having problems getting the program box to link consistently with my laptop. When setting the punch control is setting it at 99% and 30/30 giving it max punch?
I know I can play with the settings and have. When I raced it Saturday they were all 3 set a 1% and it seemed fine. Now I set it up on my laptop and it had no pop at all in those settings. Then I went back and set it at 99-30-30 and it seems super punchy.

ILRacer

iTrader: (32)

Let me first say I am not a newbie been running off road for 30 years. I just purchased a couple of Trackstar Redcan motors 6.5t and 5.5t for my B44.2 and the solder tabs are quite small and narrow. How are you guys soldering the esc leads to the motor tabs. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Mike

Sir_CrashAlot

Very carefully..... If I understood your question correctly here's what I do, I take some masking tape and place it between the terminals while soldering to prevent any accidental solder bridge. I usually start with the middle wire/tab first and then move to the outer terminals. Obviously pre-tin the tabs and wires, it shouldn't be to messy from that point on.

Once I have a few runs on the system and fully satisfied, I then cover the solder terminals in "Liquid Electrical tape" (found at any home improvement center/hardware store and fairly easily peeled off if needed), to prevent any accidental arcing or bridging should any foreign conductive material come in contact with the terminals while running.

On another note, I really like the Trackstar motor lineup but I got a little unlucky with one motor. The magnet come loose from the shaft, it was an easy fix, so off I went to the auto parts store and bought some high temp metal to metal epoxy. Sand and cleaned both inside the magnet and also the shaft followed by finish cleaning with a solvent. Mixed up epoxy and re-glued the magnet. Been holding up great ever since then without issue. Problem is when the magnet come loose it come in contact with the sensor board shorting out and killing a HK 120a ESC. Of course I didn't discover this until I bought another ESC (Hwing SCT Pro), it would suddenly shut-off and then reset. After a long hunt and motor dis-assembly did I discover the magnet had come loose from the shaft from a poor glue job at the factory (one single little drop). I should have RMA'd it, but I had it fixed and back running by the time an e-mail would have been answered. I'm sure the balance isn't perfect but I've had no issue since. I just ordered another motor (diff KV) if that tells you anything, but I will be checking that magnet before installation. Good luck!

Sir_CrashAlot.......

RC who 55

This is the thread I am looking for.
I need help for my waterproof trackstar 70A ESC.
Got this ESC few weeks ago, test it out when I received it,
It took 4 to 5 minutes before it will power up, everything seem to work ok and smooth,
Only problem I had is when returned from reverse to neutral, it brake very hard.
I had try to hook up with 3 different sensor motors and radios and calibered all 3 of them. It still had the same problem.
Every time I take this ESC out and test it. It won't power up after 4 to 5 minutes later or some time it won't power up at all.
Once it power up, it work like normal, I can turn it on and off and replace motors and radios. Sometimes I can't turn on or off this ESC if the radio is not on.
Even connect to the program box, it won't power up,
Do I have a defective ESC or I did something wrong?

Ps: I had a HK 120A and a 60A and all different brands of ESC, this is the only one that act weird !!
Someone at HK support center told me that is normal for this ESC to brake hard when return from reverse to neutral. Is that true?

RC who 55

Yes bravo to HK, I like their stuffs, have a lot of choices, fit your budget.

Mwildmann you were right, shipping with DHL express is great, took three days ship to my house at Canada from HK China.
It took EXOTEK two week ship two parts weights 300G and cost me 24$us. From San Diego to Canada.

Christophoclese

All of the Trackstar Turbo 120A Gen 1 ESCs I have do that reverse thing. If you engage reverse without a load and let the trigger go back to neutral the wheels will stop abruptly. In part because of this I have the reverse power set at 50% on the ESC.

Everything else you've described sounds pretty abnormal. Sounds like a bad ESC if it really wont power up unless it has been connected to a battery for a few minutes.

RC who 55

Thank you for the reply,
That clear up my mystery, I never had an ESC did that. Because it took long times to power up so I thought that neutral brake was abnormal.
I think my 70A ESC had a bad BEC, if I connected this ESC to my Wraith with external BEC, it will power on or off with the radio TX turn on, if the TX is off , you can't even turn off the ESC, my external BEC was wired properly, i am still connecting with my HK 120A ESC,
I had requested a RMA from Hobbyking.
Is that really all the trackstar gen1 Hextronik ESC do the hard brake at neutral?

shagzternz1

iTrader: (2)

Just spreading some trackstar love lol ..Currently using a Turbo 80a esc in my onroad Associated Pan 10r5 235mm chassis here in NZ with a 13.5T Fantom Aspec, this is my first year racing in this class and racing on carpet, last week was my second meeting using this set up, it is taking alot of trial and error especially with limited knowledge about esc and turbo settings etc but I have found that i was well on pace finishing second overall after 3 heats and a final, esc runs nice and cool and have had no issues.. What would have been handy is a ESC for dummies sheet with it so you have a better idea of what you are adjusting from the outset rather than needing to race meetings to get closer to the optimum and some motor plugs..otherwise can't fault it

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

My 6 year old twins are each running a 17.5 trakstar red can in their T4's, along with hobbyking 80A esc's and Zippy 4000 mah batts. I couldn't be happier with the equipment. They bash the crap out of them, and the smiles on their faces are absolutely priceless!

I am thankful for HobbyKing making such affordable products available that I can outfit the entire family with their own vehicles. For that matter, I bought all the cars used off the RCTech buy/sell forums, so I am grateful for these forums as well.

MikeHavo

iTrader: (3)

Question:
I just am getting back into the hobby after being out for quite a few years got the Gen II esc and 17.5 red can that I am putting in my B5M and not sure where to solder the Resistor... anything would help
Thanks Mike

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

Assuming you are talking about the capacitor bank.. I looked at the manual and it didn't show where to solder. Checked some of my cars with turnigy, and hobbyking esc's, and the capacitors solder onto the same esc tabs that the battery wires do.

So capacitor + and the battery + solder to the same esc tab.
Capacitor - and the battery - solder to the same esc tab as well.

MikeHavo

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Jbrow1
That's what I was assuming but you know how that goes people who assume mess up....