IMHO the Fantom is really good. Really! Had a D4 Fantom and it was retarded fast but very expensive top of the line unit. Now I have an FR1 and it is almost as fast for 1/2 the money!

help with tekin redline 17.5
 

Hey everyone I am struggling to get any power out of my tekin redline 17.5 gen 2, I've got it in a tlr 22 racing on a short clay indoor track. it seems I have no low end torque compared to others at my track,everyone can clear this triple jump on the current layout except me I come up short every time. When I run my other 22 with a Novak ballistic 17.5 have no problem clearing the tripple. Gearing is identical on both cars 27/70. but the redline feels flat I've tried motor timing at 40 and all the way back to 0 only change I get is motor temp. Any thoughts on how to wake up the tekin?

Is this on a small track? If it's not you're under geared a bit. The Gen2 is a good motor but the Gen3 is head and shoulders better to be honest.

The Gen2 likes to be around 35-40 on the can. Is it the standard can or the RPM?

My track small indoor 80x40 I will try going up a tooth or two on my pinion. I have the standard can not the rpm version

Ok. I'm going to venture into stock. Been running mod 2wd and 4wd the last year. I have a 22 3.0 ready to go for Stock (17.5). What is a slipper eliminator and which one do I need? If Schelle, does anybody know exactly what I need? Part #?

*I'll be running on a medium to high bite indoor clay track, medium size. Is a slipper eliminator even needed on that type of track?

to be honest I am liking using garolite style disks (Mckune pads?) as they don't fade and still offer some slipper action. Better than the stock pads. May be better for your conditions versus no slipper.

Interesting.. So simply swap out the pads within the kit slipper?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/exotek-...xo1419/p441110

I use this in my 22 3.0, you need the kimbrough spur gears to mount to it though.

yup thats what I use. These:

http://www.rcshox.com/ae-b4-44-t4-garodisc-pucked/

Confirm they work but the version is basically what I have on my B6 as taken from a B4.2. The Mckune pads I have look very similar in material too:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mckune-...r10011/p469221

I have the Mckunes for my Durangos.

The slipper eliminator is also cutting weight from the drive line. 17.5 is never going to need a slipper. Switching pads is a waste. Just tighten the stock slipper down all the way until you get a lock out.

In the middle of a BD6 build, its my first offroad race car and am gonna run 17.5, should I just swap out the kit slipper with a lockout from the jump? or should I drive it box stop for a while to appreciate lockout vs slipper? if this car is only gonna be used to race, should I just start with the lockout as I learn to drive?

use the stock slipper first... as you gain throttle control coming out of the corners and landing from a jump, you can upgrade into the lockout. I have both and use either one of them according to track condition.

ok...sounds good

I agree, slipper eliminators can be very effective, but they're not ideal for everyone. And just getting into it, I'd also suggest starting with the car close to box stock, & get a feel for how it handles, before you try making changes. Also keep in mind that the eliminators are at their best on high grip surfaces, if your track doesn't have much grip(& there are still tracks like that around), then you may need the slipper to keep wheelspin under control....:cool:

Ran carpet yesterday with the maclan 17.5 in 2wd buggy, B6 and the motor worked excellent. Garolite discs had no fadd and excellent punch.