Soldering help ?????!!!!?!??
 

The wires are not sticking to the motor leads help please

http://img1.imagehousing.com/16/a5e3...bcd36fbfbb.jpg

Have you sever soldered before? if not $10 at home depot for a soldering / wood working kit (get it, it's cheaper than buying a soldering gun then a separate tip) and then go and get some nice silver rosin to use, it's made for electronics and will come wound up in a tube for $2-$8 depending on the quality and amount. (it's also fairly thin). practice if you want, but the goal is to make it so when you touch the tip of the iron the solder (or rosin / resin) liquifies immediately. heat it up and melt the pre-made solder beads then stick the wires in and add a touch of the silver for a intent high flow high current connection

I have this one 60% tin and 40%lead ??????
http://img1.imagehousing.com/80/9a9e...1479e71be8.jpg

You have a very cold joint. Tin both wire and motor terminal, then put the two together and heat until both flow. Use a hit iron and rosin core solder.

Yeah, tin the motor connectors first, and the wire, get them both super hot until they flow together.

That works great for R/C stuff to, silver is for high quality electronics (computers cellphones etc.) and isn't nessecary, but over-kill is under-rated. That's most likely the same or higher grade than what it was already made from

Here's everything you need to know.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...ef-lesson.html
I learned a lot from it.

If you do not want to buy a soldering station, then get a good Weller 40-60 amp soldering gun (not the trigger gun type as they suck, but the "pencil" plug in kind). I purchased mine from Sears, which cost about $25. Once it heats it instantly solders motor connections, etc. with great ease. You also might want to put a very small amount of flux on each the motor tabs and speedo motor wire ends....This facilitates the cleaning of the metal, once heated, and the adhesion of the actual solder once melted. Higher the temp. of the soldering unit the better.

That's the same thing as home depots soldering gun / wood working kit, just a lot cheaper at home depot (for future reference) i've snagged 3 of em for $10 each and use 2 for soldering (one travels on sits in my garage) and 1 for whatever i feel like burning patterns into.

Is this one ok ?
http://img1.imagehousing.com/83/3886...2cd0c99fb0.jpg

That's fine, I use the same one without the LED's. I use the smaller chisel tip.

Soldering is one of those things that is tough to learn from pictures or text. You have two choices. Either learn through trial and error and screw up a lot of stuff, or have someone who knows how show you the proper way to do it.i recommend the later.

Next time you head to the track look for an Experienced racer who has a solder station on his pit table. Soldering up that motor is like a 30 second job and they can show you the proper way. 60/40 though is a lot easier to work with than the silver or lead free stuff.

I would get a hotter iron than that. Thicker wires need more heat and make things easier and faster.

As Jsk said, the best way is to practice and you will get better. Get or make a jig as well (I use a cheap cutting board with various size holes drilled in it) and things get even easier but nothing beats practice.

A wider wedge head is better for motor wires.
It heats it faster cause its bigger and it provides a good solder flow.
Less time on the electronics is better but you still have to get it hot enough to flow it out.
Tin the motor posts first.

Don't use lead free of silver solder that stuff is garbage and requires an arc welder to flow it.
Kester 63/37 is the best makes a nice shiny joint that flows well.

Flux, you need flux. And like the others have said you need to tin both the connector and the wire.