Lipo 2s question help
 

So I bought a new lipo 2s battery I connected the battery just to set up my esc and servo I was wondering if I was suppose to charge it and balance it first ????????

To do what you wanted to do, you should not have to charge the battery.

Oh I forgot and I also did the slipper clutch set up where you grab both rear tires and give it some throttle and make sure the front wheels don't go over 12 inches or so high ????????

In that case then, you will get a more accurate/realistic slipper setting on a full charge as opposed to the storage charge most packs ship with.

Jesus I see now but did I messed up the battery in any way I never put any heavy use on it pretty much just set up some stuff which require me to put the battery and my second question is what is the rule of thumb on lipo 2s batteries once I buy a new pack what are the steps in keeping a good battery ?????

All the LiPo batteries I have received had a storage charge on them, approx 7.6 volts which is plenty for what you did. If you have a LiPo cutoff on your speed control and they were too low, you would not have been able to run your motor at all. The battery should be fine. If you are really worried about it, put it on your charger and use the storage mode if it has one or check the voltage with a voltmeter and see if it is close to 7.6 volts.

??????????

Not likely at all, as long you did not run the voltage too low and a good LiPo friendly ESC will help keep that from happening.

Peak and voltage at 7.70 ?????

The reason I'm asking this is because I bought a venom saddle pack and it says to BREAK IN the battery before first usage and my trinity rectech didn't say nothing about BREAK IN now that's why I'm worry because i paid $110 for the trinity HELP PLEASE

First, I also think everything is OK.

The 7.7V is fine, storage voltage doesn't require an exact voltage, anything from 7.5 to 7.7V, or even a little outside of that, is fine (3.75 to 3.85 per cell). Note the charger only put in 16mAh, a very small amount, this means the pack was not ran down too low, so you are in good shape.

It actually would have been worse in this case to fully charge the pack, do the few setup things, and then leave the pack near fully charged.

The most important thing for break in is to not run the battery down too low or let it get warm. From all the evidence that's not likely to have happened.

For the first few runs, after fully charging the battery, just don't run for a long time, or drive real hard, stop short and recharge. Towards the end of a run is when the pack is far more likely to warm up. If your ESC has an adjustable Low Voltage Cutoff, perhaps set it fairly high, up around 3.6 to 3.7V, (7.2 to 7.4V for the 2S).

1) Don't run the pack down too low. It will last longer if you use a slightly higher LVC than the commonly recommended 3V per cell guideline, say 3.2 to 3.4V per cell, depending on the RC and how heavily it loads the battery. This will only slightly reduce your run time, lipos drop off very quickly at the end. Best to stop as soon as you feel a loss of power.

2) Don't let the pack get hot. Don't leave it in the sunlight, in a parked closed car, especially fully charged, as temperature changes charge state. Check the temp after a run, if it's noticeably warm that's less than ideal.

On the other hand don't charge and use a cold pack, let it warm up first.

3) Don't store the pack fully charged, rather somewhere around half charged, which is what storage voltage is. Either use the storage feature on the charger, or the easy way is to just run half as long on your last run. If racing, a typical race heat frequently leaves the pack close enough, just leave it until next time. Charge just before use.

4) Always balance charge. May not need it now, but the trick is to not let it get to a point where it does need balancing. The old cliché of an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure applies.

12 inches seems high? Especially as Mark mentioned with a half charged pack. I think most use something closer to 3-4 inches tops. Note this is with a quick blip of full throttle, not just holding it, though. Be careful to not overheat the slipper, besides being hard on the pads can give a misleading setting.

Dave H your the best thanks everyone for the help

Everything that has been stated is very accurate. The 12" is too much, that would mean the slipper was too tight or too much throttle was applied. As stated a quick blip of the throttle is all that is needed and the nose should come up and go down almost immediately.

Also depending on the surface you are racing on, you may need to adjust the slipper at the track. A track with more traction will mean a tighter slipper is needed; loose track is opposite. All this is assuming the diff is set up correctly or is a gear diff (no set up reqjuired, other than diff fluid type used).

Well I have the losi 22 2.0 and durango dex410 v3 so far :)

VORTEX R10 ESC

:lol: Those two little seemingly innocent words are so true for many of us. So far. :nod:

Cheers