egobrkr

iTrader: (29)

I think your biggest problem is the esc. The novak 4.5 motor need a lot of power to give it max. I use the activ8 with 14t pinion and 40 spur. My timing on the end bell is at 30 and in the esc I run 25 degrees from 16k to 29k. I do not have a lack of torque. I run on a large indoor track and have no problem with the tekin boys. They have beat me before but it was not the system that beat me. It was driver error or just not my day but I have beat them too. I have not thought to switch to the 550 4pole. I have not felt that I needed to as I still have more in the system that I have now if I need it. I also run in roar races and the last time I checked the 550 4pole is still not roar approved. Just remember the fastest motor does not win races. It smooth and consistent thaf wins.

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

I know a guy who has real data to bring to the table. I know this tread is old, but lets get things back on topic with some interesting proofs

EJ2civic

Thanks Josh...

I have done the testing on a HIGH grip carpet track. My testing has yielded that a 540/545 4 pole motor creates MORE stress on the rest of the power system. This stress being MORE HEAT in the ESC and battery. ESC temps were at least 15 degrees higher, battery temps were 10 degrees higher while pulling way more mAh out of the pack. All tests were done with 2 IDENTICAL batteries from Psycho Cells Racing. As far as speed and torque, all that needs to be done is make slight adjustments to the ESC boost and turbo timing as well as punch. My current SCTE 2.0 is powered by a Hobbywing V2.1 and a Novak Ballistic 4.5T 550.(YES IT WORKS AND NO IT DOES NOT OVERHEAT THE ESC) ESC temps after a 8 min main are 110-120 degrees. Battery temps after the same main are 105-115 degrees.

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

Tell them about the felt power difference and caps used Mike!

EJ2civic

Right...I forgot...

Current Hobbywing V2.1 in my truck has been slightly modded. I replaced the shit stock HW fan with a WTF(Wild Turbo Fan) 3010 which is a bigger overall fan that produces MORE CFM and RPM. Secondly I added a 5600uF "glitchbuster" cap to the battery inputs on the ESC ALONG WITH the factory 2 cap bank. Overall power is insane. It has the about the same amount of torque that a Pro4 HD produces and MORE torque than a 540/545 4 pole. Physical motor timing is still stock at 30 on the endbell with 10* of boost timing with an additional 5* of turbo timing.

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

Have you run the exact same setup with and without the 5600 capacitor? What was the difference?

Have you temped the capacitor after a run?

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

Temping a capacitor doesn't tell you enough of the story in my opinion to even be worth doing unless you know a whole lot about the specific caps.
There are a lot of variances when it comes to capacitors, such as the caps ESR values which would have to be taken into consideration.
There are a couple different electrolytic cap manufactures, with some better than others in quality and impedance claims.
My caps also are run with a schottky diode in parallel as well. Something all cap packs should have. Most of the better cap pack manufactures have them soldered on their SMT boards.
Not doing this can allow spiking to occur, which in turn can give you a false sense of heat measurement since it would have run cooler had it not reversed polarity when under hard loads, causing said current spiking.
Point blank, the cap packs are always going to help your system no matter what.

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

Temping a capacitor could tell you if it was being overworked and might indicate whether it is suitable for the application.

Capacitors used by ESC manufacturers on their ESCs are Low ESR. They generally cost more than caps that are not Low ESR and there is really no reason for a supplier of "Glitchbuster" caps used in receivers to use Low ESR caps for this purpose since the voltage fluctuations have a much lower frequency.

If the Cap used on an ESC is not a Low ESR cap it will me mostly ineffective since it can't counter the the voltage fluctuations that occur at the PWM frequency as well as a Low ESR cap. But if it is not Low ESR those voltage fluctuations would still be trying to push current in and out of the cap against the higher resistance, leading to more heat in the cap.

So there is a reason to temp the cap.

And that's also why I asked if there was a back-to-back test with and without the cap but no other changes.

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

True. Didn't think about the caps on the vehicle in discussion. I defiantly use Low ESR caps on all my stuff and forget most don't know about the difference of cap types