Novak ?
 

When ever i hear about novak,its always about some one complaining about their motor or ese's not working.Has anyone ever had their novak electronics work with out a hitch?

I've never had any trouble with their motors, but I don't like their ESC's. I've had them blow up, I've had a couple that had no brakes to speak of regardless of re-calibration, etc.

Usually the replacement that I get works flawlessly. I have several of their ESCs and motors and am quite happy with both. I've just had to return my initially purchased item each time.

I bought a kinetic, fried in two weeks, they replaced it with a pulse for free, so I can't complain. Amazing speed controller, I love the no laptop ideA, and they're irvine based so if ur in SoCal it's just too easy... And their motors are solid and competetive IMO.

I like their colors... Haha. This is the way I see it. There's you top shelf electronics( tekin, lrp) then novak in the middle, then all the rest (castle, hobby wing, speed passion, and everything else that I'd consider budget). Solid stuff, good warranty and also the underdog. But they were doing this long before everyone else.... Gotta count for something.

such a great Positive post LOL..I just call their Product Slowvak..

The stuff I have had from the has all been very reliable equimpment. But for the money I think the hobbywing speed controls are faster and their are definitely better motors out there.

Hara, Fisher & Andy Moore use HW. I wouldn't call their speedies "budget". And SP has been successfully used by Mark Reinhard.

Orion, Speed Passion, and Hobbywing are all made by the same company and then they just get different labels put on them. I agree with you, the price point is budget but the performance is high end.

Back in the days of the Novak T-1 and T-4, and the original rooster... I was totally pleased. These days, I've had really good luck with their motors. They work very well for VTA class. Inexpensive and long lasting. Solid motors. I suppose though, Novak is responsible for bringing brushless to R/C so I suppose they have more experience than anyone.

OTOH, I've had nothing but issues with my GTB2 speedo, to the point where I sold it and bought something else. I had a brand new, in package, Novak Edge that I didn't even bother to mount based on the trouble I had with the GTB2. Sold it without even trying it. Replaced them both with Hobbywing Justock's and haven't looked back.

My Castle MMP 1-cell has been amazing (as long as you stay under 80 amps). With the software they provide, etc... I wouldn't call it budget. Plus, it's the only small ESC that I know of that will run 6s.

I have 8 GTB's (all orginal NONE LiPo ) and untill last winter all were working perfectly.
I had only 2 of them die (due to connecting the power backwards) on me after 6 long years of running.

Still to this day I think the GTB is the best for Spec racing.
I run Tekin & LRP for boosted 13.5 and mod.
For 1/8 scale I still prefer Castle Creations MMM over the Tekin RS8.
I have no idea about 1S classes YET:sneaky:
Just my $.02

I think there are rules that you must follow with Novak esc's more than any other brand:
#1 : always disconnect the esc to the battery as soon as you turn the esc Off: bad marshalls always forget to do that....
#2 : always run deans connectors so you won't connect the battery backwards...
#3 : no bench testing period....
#4 : clean carpet fibers regularly from your chassis to stop static electricity....
#5 : always use two double stick pads under your speedy to dampen shock better, or else the esc will shut Off after every small hit...
#6 : run a glitch buster in your radio (preferably Futaba)...
# 7 : if all of the above fails, then turn Off LVC , turn Off dragbrake, use highest minimum throttle, and time your runs...
#8 : DO NOT TURN YOUR FRONT TIRES BY HAND WITH THE ESC OFF AND CONNECTED TO THE BATTERY.... NO WRENCHING WITH ESC CONNECTED ON OR OFF !!!!!

Also, I 've never burned a Novak esc or any other esc for that matter following these rules.... The only esc that quit while running on me was a LRP super reverse esc, but I got it replaced under warranty... Insufficient airflow .....

I also forgot to mention that you need to have at least twenty Minutes between six minute runs, and run a small room fan blowing on your esc and motor for the duration of the break......

Never, ever, ever again.