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Hobbywing Xerun V3

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Old 12-16-2013, 04:08 AM
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Has anyone tried the HW 3.1 1cell esc with a speed passion 3.0 1cell motor?

I recently tried that combination (3.5T motor) with the Andy Moore settings in HW's web page. Compared to my other motors (ThunderPower) it was suprisingly slow.

I want to give it another go and is wondering if anyone has advice as to what way to go with gearing and esc setup. At the moment it's lacking punch and top end speed..
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by hyujmn View Post
I had this same problem with several HW ESCs (from v2.1s to v3.1s) and a Revtech 17.5 motor. Unfortunately, I never resolved that problem with a Revtech motor. I had to switch motors in order to gain braking. I STILL don't know why my Revtech 17.5 had almost 0 brakes, even on full 100% brakes.
I resolved my braking problem by putting a 13.0mm rotor in my D3.5 motor (I'm running a 10.5 in an open touring class). I guess braking strength is a function of both rotor strength and the air gap between the rotor and stator...

Now I'd love to know why my V3 has a nasty habit of shutting itself off... Fresh battery in the car, no collision necessary - I can run the car for a few laps, and if I stop for any reason (e.g., after a few warmup laps) there are times the ESC powers itself off. Anyone else observe this behavior?
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:03 PM
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Are you holding the brake on when you're stopped?
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:07 PM
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[QUOTE=oeoeo327;12819383]I resolved my braking problem by putting a 13.0mm rotor in my D3.5 motor (I'm running a 10.5 in an open touring class). I guess braking strength is a function of both rotor strength and the air gap between the rotor and stator...

Now I'd love to know why my V3 has a nasty habit of shutting itself off... Fresh battery in the car, no collision necessary - I can run the car for a few laps, and if I stop for any reason (e.g., after a few warmup laps) there are times the ESC powers itself off. Anyone else observe this behavior?[/QUOTE

If your holding the brake while stopped for more than 5 secs the esc will shut down it is a feature of the data logger to save the data.

As for your brakes issue when shimming make sure your rotor is as close to the hall sensor board as possible.
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Old 12-17-2013, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve S View Post
Are you holding the brake on when you're stopped?
Just read CobraRacing's post... Wasn't aware of that feature (and, quite frankly, think the 5 second window should be extended a bit - maybe 10 seconds?) - now I'll know not to hold the brake... Thanks for the assistance.
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Old 12-17-2013, 03:11 PM
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Off the subject thinking of buying Xerun 3.1 for 12 th scale is this a good speed controller for the money I have been running LRPs, will this be a noticeable improvement and do I need to buy the program box also

Thanks Chris
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Old 12-17-2013, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
Just read CobraRacing's post... Wasn't aware of that feature (and, quite frankly, think the 5 second window should be extended a bit - maybe 10 seconds?) - now I'll know not to hold the brake... Thanks for the assistance.
5 seconds is.... quite frankly a very long time when racing. How often do you hold down the brakes for more than 1 second?

Heck, 5 seconds is almost half a lap on our medium sized carpet track.
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by hyujmn View Post
5 seconds is.... quite frankly a very long time when racing. How often do you hold down the brakes for more than 1 second?

Heck, 5 seconds is almost half a lap on our medium sized carpet track.
While actually racing - yes, 5 seconds on the brakes would be a long time - but while waiting for the race to start, holding the brake while adjusting the brake endpoint on the transmitter could take 5 seconds (and for whatever reason, I have to hold the brakes while making this adjustment).

I never made this connection, but this is most likely the scenario that powers down the ESC. Knowing that this occurs, I'll avoid doing it in the future.
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by bigcracing View Post
Off the subject thinking of buying Xerun 3.1 for 12 th scale is this a good speed controller for the money I have been running LRPs, will this be a noticeable improvement and do I need to buy the program box also

Thanks Chris
One of the best out there, im sure others will agree. The program box is nice.
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:07 PM
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Default New PDF Setup Sheet for V3.1 ESC

Guys,

I wanted to share this Editable PDF Setupsheet I just put together for the Hobbywing V3.1 120 & 100 Amp ESC.

Xerun 120A V3.1 ESC - 12-17-2013.pdf

Let me know if you have any questions.

Alan
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:17 PM
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HELP-

I'm currently using a Hobbywing v3.1 stock spec esc (100a version). Running the updated firmware for the both the 3 in 1 program card, and on the ESC itself. I updated this with software vs. 3.4.

I just switched over to a MM3 transmission, and I need to be able to reverse the motor direction. I know for sure that I can do this with the v2.1 ESC's. But there isn't an option for this on either the PC or the Program Box! Am I just out of luck, or is there a way for me to download an older firmware and flash to ESC back a version to give me this option. I have no other choice other than to buy a new ESC at this point if I can't figure it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated if you could even provide a direct link for me to click on and D/L that'd be the best. I can't find any older firmwares just the 3.4 usblink software.

Thanks so much!

P.S. running in sensorless mode isn't an option, I already tried removing the Sensor wire and switching 2 of the wire on the motor and it gives me this weird half-throttle to full throttle ramp up. Car is not race-able in that state.
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:17 PM
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HELP-

I'm currently using a Hobbywing v3.1 stock spec esc (100a version). Running the updated firmware for the both the 3 in 1 program card, and on the ESC itself. I updated this with software vs. 3.4.

I just switched over to a MM3 transmission, and I need to be able to reverse the motor direction. I know for sure that I can do this with the v2.1 ESC's. But there isn't an option for this on either the PC or the Program Box! Am I just out of luck, or is there a way for me to download an older firmware and flash to ESC back a version to give me this option. I have no other choice other than to buy a new ESC at this point if I can't figure it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated if you could even provide a direct link for me to click on and D/L that'd be the best. I can't find any older firmwares just the 3.4 usblink software.

Thanks so much!

P.S. running in sensorless mode isn't an option, I already tried removing the Sensor wire and switching 2 of the wire on the motor and it gives me this weird half-throttle to full throttle ramp up. Car is not race-able in that state.
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:41 PM
  #343  
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Originally Posted by jensen123 View Post
When will that new V3 available in Hong Kong, still waiting now!
T_T
We can sale for you, IF YOU WANT, PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS.
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Old 12-20-2013, 01:31 AM
  #344  
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Hello,

I need your help. I have combo of blue Xerun V3.1 and new 4-pole Tenshock motor 5.5T, about 7.5:1 FDR.

See: http://www.rctech.net/forum/12815299-post189.html

On the first run, the car ran great, motor was about 45C after 5 minute run. On the secong run the first laps were OK, then I lost lot of power till 50% and above 50% throttle I got unmanagable boost of power. The motor was 90C hot after the run!!
I got blinking green light on the controller. I tried it for the third time with new sensor wire, but it was the same, and I stopped after 3 laps. Green blinking light.

I have box stock controller, only calibrated, bought at Giant Shark 3 weeks ago.

Please advise before something goes up in smoke.

My other combos Xerun V2.1 and Xtreme Stock are working perfectly tough.

Thanks for your support! Keep up the great work! Really appreciate that!

Regards,
Miha
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Old 12-21-2013, 09:32 AM
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Questions?? Xerun 120A 1S V3.1

Any updates on ROAR approval for this ESC?
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