using boosted ESC & 17.5 motor in modified class?
 

Looking at getting a new ESC and 17.5 motor (specifically orion r10 pro) for my 2wd short course truck, as my local track runs mostly stock (17.5 with no boost/timing) short course.

However, I don't want to limit myself down the road if I want to be able to run 2wd modified short course at future races.

Looking at lap times from local races (big track at motorama in pa and small local track), seems that 2wd stock is very close to 2wd mod. Would I be competitive in 2wd modified if I used a 17.5 motor and boosted my ESC? Seems that I would, even on a straightaway.

thanks

Yes and no is the answer. Boosted 17.5, especially if you max it out, can be competitive in an open class as long as you don't need the punch to clear a certain jump off a slow corner for example. The one thing you will lack is that little bit of spool early in the powerband before the boost can do it's magic.

thanks! This is good to know. Most of the tracks that I race on are typically the same between 2wd stock and 2wd mod. So, I think this might work for me. Any thoughts on if running boosted 17.5 will make the car not run as smooth, and subsequently, less control vs, say a 13.5 motor?

The reason why it'll be slightly less smooth is the ramping effect of the boost. It's almost like running positive expo on your radio. However, because you want to do this with an R10 and not a Tekin (most people who want to run ludicrous speed boost use a Tekin RS) you will have an inherently better/smoother ESC to start with that, even when maxed, will provide slightly less boost. In other words, maxing the boost on the R10 is much more like just hitting a "more top speed please, switch" than doing so on other ESC's.

FWIW, I ran a boosted 13.5 in a mod buggy class for a little and it matched lap times with my 8.5. When the local track built a huge jump that required a 6.5 to clear in one shot, neither one would so it was still a draw.

this is great info. I actually heard that the r10 is a very smooth ESC, but haven't researched the tekin. good to know about your experience with the tekin. I prefer the smoother laps rather than trying to achieve that higher top speed.

Thanks again

I cleared my setup with my track owner and yours may not allow it, but I run 3S and the 17.5 in mod 0 boost. That way I can just change batteries and run stock (I run the same gearing for both).

Doesn't the added weight mean you actually have to (or at least should be) adjusting at least your ride height but maybe even your whole setup to compensate?

one thing about the tekin vs the orion, you can switch between boost and no boost blinky mode with no programmer or computer just a few taps on the esc buttons whereas the orion you need to change firmwares I believe, which requires at least the program box with you and im not sure if its able to hold both stock and mod profiles on the box at once, so you might even need your computer with you as well to make the switch between blinky and boosted quickly at the track. That is were I was sold on the Tekin, setup my esc once at home with the hotwire and laptop and leave it all at home :) Less I have to carry with me.

I don't have any added weight. I run a 3300 3s pack which provides more than enough runtime. The setup stays exactly the same, the car just moves faster. I do run an external BEC because I like more voltage to the servo, which has to be changed when I run 2S (not really setup related).


http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...217_145259.jpg

You never need a computer at the track with the R10 regardless of what you're doing with it. You need the box but it plugs in via the sensor wire and can be done in 60seconds or less. And, it's just that much better on the track than the Tekin to be worthwhile.

I meant the weight of the batteries themselves (usually a 3s is roughly 4oz heavier than a 2s) should be changing at least your ride height just by putting them in but it is an interesting thought.

I understood what you meant. But isn't that when you're using ones with the same capacity? The batteries I use are within 13g of each other. They're physically the same size, and they're the same cells so pretty much the same density.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-50c-50...case-2222.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

Ah, didn't catch the smaller capacity on the 3s.

I wasn't aware that the box stored multiple firmware on it. To each his own about motors and speed controllers and so forth, I can say I've never driven with an Orion so I can't contest smoothness over the other jus stated my reasons why I think the Tekin is simple...

If you didn't get a chance to run the 222 software before they pulled it off the site, your in for a pleasent suprise when 223 comes out soon. Throttle and brakes are now as smooth as any speedo out there. Plus like you mentioned, the ability to have saved boosted setups at the press of a couple buttons makes it the best option out there IMO..... Not to mention the best customer support by far.