CHANGING TO LIPOS
 

Ok so im sick of nimh i want to go to lipos. i dont race at this point. i run a 1/10th truggy. with an xerun 120A brushless esc and 8.5T 4000kv motor. the system will handle lipos but i need somebody to help me get started. im so confused with discharging etc. i just want an average quality set up. and for someone to explain them to me..

please help!

Discharge is simple - not needed. Discharge them with your RC. You don't discharge lipo like you do with NIMh. Only time needed is when you need to put lipo in storage and lipo voltage is above storage voltage.



Explained better in here - http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html

any recommendations on a getting started package?

This should fit an will be a good place to start -

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html


The similar size Gens Ace lipo from Hobbypartz is out of stock, otherwise I'd list it as well.

You want a AC/DC charger or DC powered charger?

An AC/DC charger, remember i'm in australia and our mains in 240V AC

im sorry i know i am a noob. but what is that little third wire coming off the batt? im not sure i have a place to plug that in to..?

Third wire (it's actually 3 separate wires connected to a small connector...) is for balancing, it plugs into the charger or an adapter board that connects to the charger - depends on the charger - it allows charger to monitor the individual cell voltages and adjust (balance) the voltages between cells. That link explains this kind of stuff.

Sorry, didn't realize you're from Aust - the lipo was in the USA warehouse and HK has an Aust warehouse - just find the same one in the Aust warehouse.

For a charger, this one will work -

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...wer_COPY_.html

This is the orig charger, not the copy linked above -

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._GENUINE_.html

Get the genuine one, its better quality.

Ok thank you. Can i purchase a lipo pack which is the same or very similar dimensions to a standard 6 cell nimh pack?

Hi deRRo

There is a supplier in Aus with really good prices, he can set you up 100% with quality gear and good service. His stuff will be a little more expensive than Hobbyking, but only because it's racing spec gear.

The guys name is greg, his forum id is canon.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...ories-338.html

Hard cased lipos (versus soft cased lipos) are supposed to be same or close to the size of a 6 cell pack. You need to worry about how the wires exit the lipo - some come out the end, some the side of the end and some come out the top near the end.

hobbyking and hobbypartz will both list the dimensions of the batteries. You'll find that lipos of similar capacity to your 6C nihm packs are generally quite a bit smaller, and some of the soft pack lipos are odd dimensions. If you get a hardcase lipo, they're generally the same length and width as a standard nihm/nicd pack, but may be taller. Just check the dimensions listed for whatever you're considering before you order. I bought two 4000mah 2s packs without looking closely (my first lipos) and they didn't fit any of my cars. Of course, the only logical thing to do was to buy more cars that they would fit in.. right? :)
I have this charger http://www.hobbypartz.com/skychb6chdup.html with no complaints, and have bought several batteries from them as well. Despite the warnings about exploding packs, you'll find that if you just charge correctly (correct voltage and amperage), lipos are easier than the old technology, plus they're soooo much better performance wise. good luck!

Not sure what chassis you are running, but lipos will fit most cars and all new race level cars.

You will need a charger that balances the lipos packs as they are made from 2 cells usually. Stated as '2S'. Try to do this each time you charge.

Best amps to charge you Lipos. If they are 4600mah, charge at 4.6 amps, if they are 5000mah, charge at 5amps, if they are 6400 charge at 6.4amps. This is called charging at '1c'.

Always use lipo mode.

Please make sure you research all the technical safety requirements for storage and lipo cut off voltages.

I have never had any problems using lipos, but please take time to research yourself for a full understanding.

The Sky charger and its double, the Thunder AC 6 are both good chargers. The only issue I have seen is one of our local racers had a wire from the power supply rubbing on the inside of the aluminum case in the back on the inside and it shorted out. We taped up the wire and everything worked fine after the repair. I also have an Imax that charges four batts at same time and it is a good charger also.

Lipos are pretty safe but don't ever leave on on a charger and walk away. Don't allow them overheat or over discharge. Also be careful where and how you store them. They should be kept from extreme temperatures and probably in some type of safe case. Ammo box from local Army Surplus Store works fine.

Some of our racers used to make fun of me for being too careful. That is until the night one of them walked in and set him stuff down laid out two lipos, put one on to charge, and the one that was just laying on the table then went up in smoke. Stunk up the entire track area but it did not flame only melted and smoked. He was luck and so was the track. We got it outside and let it burn down. MORAL: Lipos can do strange things.

I forgot to add that the other thing you're looking at when choosing a lipo is the "C" rating, and my advice would be to get 30c or better.. If you're not racing, don't waste your $$ on uber high c rated batteries though. You don't want to go too low, but there's no real reason to spend extra $ to get just a little bit more out of your battery. FYI, the "c" rating corresponds to the amount of current a battery can deliver both continuously, and then there's a "burst" rating.. similar to the rating that an esc will have, where the "burst" rate is something it can sustain for a few seconds, and the continuous rating is as it sounds. The number you're more concerned with is the continuous rating.
Like someone else said, we're not sure what chassis you're running this in, but for 1/10 scale chassis 30c is fine, maybe even 25c if it's a quality battery. My sons' 16th and 18th scale trucks both run 20c rated lipos and do just fine, but I've heard of problems with people trying to run that low of a c rating with a heavier truck (ie; more demand for amperage from the motor/esc)

Wow guys thanks a lot. i will be purchasing a lipo setup in the near future but like you say i will do a bit of homework first. thank you again for all your information you are a great help to somebody who is just getting into the hobby.

as for the chassis i have a crappy old 1/10 truggy i dont even have a shell for it at the moment im just having a bit of fun doing it up. everything i have put on it so far i can take off and put on another vehicle anyway.

but yes.

one more question.

What is the MAIN advantage/s of lipo batteries? over nimh/nicd.