Orion R10 review
06-03-2013, 05:39 AM
#1187
Im not a Pro.... but from what I understand
First re calabrate your throttle neutral/foward/brake... Try neutral range Low 9% and check inital break setting . I run 62.5% brake setting then set your dragbreak to 10% or higher, if low traction 10% is good if higher traction try a higher %... you just dont want the rear end to come around. So if its spinning out use a lower drag break setting. Do you have the program box??
Hi guys,
I'm sure there would be something somewhere on the forum about this but I can't find it..
What does a capacitor bank do and do I need one?
I have a R10 pro and running a TC with. 10.5.
I suspect it is used to smooth out the power but I would like to know more.
Is there a thread about this any where?
Thanks
Steve H
I'm sure there would be something somewhere on the forum about this but I can't find it..
What does a capacitor bank do and do I need one?
I have a R10 pro and running a TC with. 10.5.
I suspect it is used to smooth out the power but I would like to know more.
Is there a thread about this any where?
Thanks
Steve H
the caps just smooth out the dc ripples on the input side.... makes the voltage "smoother" and eliminates spikes.
Major reason those large caps are present is to reduce impedance due to battery internal resistance and long leads. This is particularly important when high Kv motors are used with marginal batteries (old or small). Otherwise the FETs pull down the supply resetting the micro or other voltage sensitive circuits.
Deans wet noodle is fine but the stock wire is great stuff.... make sure you have a good solder station and I like 60/40 solder
( not silver solder)
Use flux.... take your time ... use something to hold wire so you dont burn your fingers. Hope this helps.
Last edited by XXXDad; 06-03-2013 at 02:41 PM.
06-03-2013, 05:39 AM
#1188
Tha should help.
Ciao,
Lorenzo
06-03-2013, 08:43 AM
#1189
Make sure you are fully updated on your ESC....
First re calabrate your throttle neutral/foward/brake... Try neutral range Low 95 and check inital break setting . I run 62.5% brake setting then set your dragbreak to 10% or higher, if low traction 10% is good if higher traction try a higher %... you just dont want the rear end to come around. So if its spinning out use a lower drag break setting. Do you have the program box??
First re calabrate your throttle neutral/foward/brake... Try neutral range Low 95 and check inital break setting . I run 62.5% brake setting then set your dragbreak to 10% or higher, if low traction 10% is good if higher traction try a higher %... you just dont want the rear end to come around. So if its spinning out use a lower drag break setting. Do you have the program box??
yes,i have tried just about everything to lose the delay but its still there,i have taken a vid of whats happening,knowing my luck thats just the way it is,once i have it uploaded ill post it here,i forgot to mention that this is in a touring car /xray t4
06-03-2013, 10:21 AM
#1190
06-03-2013, 02:09 PM
#1192
Make sure you are fully updated on your ESC....
First re calabrate your throttle neutral/foward/brake... Try neutral range Low 95 and check inital break setting . I run 62.5% brake setting then set your dragbreak to 10% or higher, if low traction 10% is good if higher traction try a higher %... you just dont want the rear end to come around. So if its spinning out use a lower drag break setting. Do you have the program box??
Its so you have stored energy for when your under heavy aceleration( burst) and I recomend using them so you dont burn up your ESC
the caps just smooth out the dc ripples on the input side.... makes the voltage "smoother" and eliminates spikes.
Major reason those large caps are present is to reduce impedance due to battery internal resistance and long leads. This is particularly important when high Kv motors are used with marginal batteries (old or small). Otherwise the FETs pull down the supply resetting the micro or other voltage sensitive circuits.
Deans wet noodle is fine but the stock wire is great stuff.... make sure you have a good solder station and I like 60/40 solder
( not silver solder)
Use flux.... take your time ... use something to hold wire so you dont burn your fingers. Hope this helps.
First re calabrate your throttle neutral/foward/brake... Try neutral range Low 95 and check inital break setting . I run 62.5% brake setting then set your dragbreak to 10% or higher, if low traction 10% is good if higher traction try a higher %... you just dont want the rear end to come around. So if its spinning out use a lower drag break setting. Do you have the program box??
Its so you have stored energy for when your under heavy aceleration( burst) and I recomend using them so you dont burn up your ESC
the caps just smooth out the dc ripples on the input side.... makes the voltage "smoother" and eliminates spikes.
Major reason those large caps are present is to reduce impedance due to battery internal resistance and long leads. This is particularly important when high Kv motors are used with marginal batteries (old or small). Otherwise the FETs pull down the supply resetting the micro or other voltage sensitive circuits.
Deans wet noodle is fine but the stock wire is great stuff.... make sure you have a good solder station and I like 60/40 solder
( not silver solder)
Use flux.... take your time ... use something to hold wire so you dont burn your fingers. Hope this helps.
Sounds like good advice.
Steve h
Good Luck
What gauge wire is big enought?
06-04-2013, 07:39 PM
#1195
Deans is good
The ultimate wire for full race applications. 12 Gauge silicone wire with an unbelievable 1660 strands, it is so flexible that it feels like a wet noodle! The highest grade of copper and pure silicone insulation provide maximum power and easy soldering.
The cups that receve the wire should stay just replace wire .... dont heat from bottom of board.
06-12-2013, 08:13 AM
#1196
I'm wondering if someone can help me out. I have recently bought a R10 pro (2-3S version) and a programming box. I used the supplied cables and a new sensor wire and the box would not work, it was just stuck on the program box firmware screen.
It wouldn't work with the stand alone program box or on the PC. Now if I disconnect the sensor wire to the motor it works perfect. But, as it states on the Team Orion website on their description of the esc it states:
"The two sensor ports have two purposes, firstly they allow you to better manage the sensor wire positioning and secondly the port which remains free can be used to connect the ESC to the DSB-R digital program box without having to remove the sensor wire each time."
To me that says it should work with the motor sensor wire still plugged in. It doesn't work for me. I even tried updating the box firmware and the esc firmware.
Can anyone help me out?
It's a bit annoying pulling the motor sensor wire out every time I want to use the box (its in a tight spot), especially since one of the main purposes of the dual sensor ports is so you can use the programmer without unplugging each time.
It wouldn't work with the stand alone program box or on the PC. Now if I disconnect the sensor wire to the motor it works perfect. But, as it states on the Team Orion website on their description of the esc it states:
"The two sensor ports have two purposes, firstly they allow you to better manage the sensor wire positioning and secondly the port which remains free can be used to connect the ESC to the DSB-R digital program box without having to remove the sensor wire each time."
To me that says it should work with the motor sensor wire still plugged in. It doesn't work for me. I even tried updating the box firmware and the esc firmware.
Can anyone help me out?
It's a bit annoying pulling the motor sensor wire out every time I want to use the box (its in a tight spot), especially since one of the main purposes of the dual sensor ports is so you can use the programmer without unplugging each time.
