HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD
Does anyone run ESC advanced timing on the HW justock motors? If so what is a good starting point on a motor that is currently undergeared and running cold after over 10mins. 20deg?
I have a 22T that we run in an "open" class so basically modified. I have a 17.5T hobbywing Justock G2 motor in it and a 10BL120 esc. The can is locked but I figure to get a little more speed and power I could up the timing on the ESC since the class doesn't require blinky. Just not sure if these spec locked 0deg timing motors will work ok with advanced esc timing or if it will damage it or something.
thanks for the help
Edit - just realized the settings start at 3.75 and go up to 26.25... Guess I will start with the second step of (7.50) and see how that works and check temps.
I have a 22T that we run in an "open" class so basically modified. I have a 17.5T hobbywing Justock G2 motor in it and a 10BL120 esc. The can is locked but I figure to get a little more speed and power I could up the timing on the ESC since the class doesn't require blinky. Just not sure if these spec locked 0deg timing motors will work ok with advanced esc timing or if it will damage it or something.
thanks for the help
Edit - just realized the settings start at 3.75 and go up to 26.25... Guess I will start with the second step of (7.50) and see how that works and check temps.
Last edited by socalcloin; 05-08-2018 at 10:54 AM. Reason: Found settings in manual
when running 13.5 wheeler what did you set your timing to if not running at the default 40 degrees. Is the Stock G2 more on the torque side lower KV or higher rpm higher KV.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
In my experience with the new motors so far they seem to have good torque but with lots of RPM. They run cooler than the G2 motors did. I tried my 13.5 at 46degs of timing and it had too much bottom end for the way I drive, I was over jumping things. 43degs was the sweet spot.
Tech Fanatic
Well looks like my fan problems continue, this time my Quicrun 150A's fan stopped working during the second day of using it. The black wire seems to have come loose from the fan "motor". Gotta try to resolder it, but frankly soldering tiny things is hardly my forte, regular wires are bad enough
Secondly the ESC no longer connects to my LED program card. I had a wire routing fail where the receiver cable apparently got loose and into contact with probably one of the diff outdrives of my e-buggy and the white wire got frayed in two places. As far as I can see the wire isn't completely severed, just frayed, but it's the only reason I can think of for the program card to stop working - the card itself works fine with my other Quicruns. My understanding is the white wire is the signal wire, but the ESC does still work with the receiver just fine so signal should still be OK. It's not a huge issue if the card doesn't work because the settings are good the way they are at the moment, and any small changes can be done with the set button - but it still wouldn't hurt for it to work.
Otherwise I must say this ESC is excellent especially given the price. I was a bit wary about going unsensored, but there's no cogging and beyond very slow speeds - slow enough that you never even use such at the track - the throttle is very smooth my TrackStar motor and it barely gets warm (well, when the fan works at least!).
Secondly the ESC no longer connects to my LED program card. I had a wire routing fail where the receiver cable apparently got loose and into contact with probably one of the diff outdrives of my e-buggy and the white wire got frayed in two places. As far as I can see the wire isn't completely severed, just frayed, but it's the only reason I can think of for the program card to stop working - the card itself works fine with my other Quicruns. My understanding is the white wire is the signal wire, but the ESC does still work with the receiver just fine so signal should still be OK. It's not a huge issue if the card doesn't work because the settings are good the way they are at the moment, and any small changes can be done with the set button - but it still wouldn't hurt for it to work.
Otherwise I must say this ESC is excellent especially given the price. I was a bit wary about going unsensored, but there's no cogging and beyond very slow speeds - slow enough that you never even use such at the track - the throttle is very smooth my TrackStar motor and it barely gets warm (well, when the fan works at least!).
Tech Apprentice
Had my first day at the track with a Xerun XR8 SCT. Got home and checked the data logs to find my peak ESC temp at 158, and peak motor at 143. I’m running boost at 5, no timing or anything else. Just the out of the box settings. 17t pinion with a Tekin 4300 Pro4 hd in SCT410.3 all stock setup. Are these pretty typical temps for the ESC. Just trying to get a baseline what normal would be. External temps with heat gun were of course lower.
I’m running an XR8 Plus combo with a g2 1900kv motor in my mp9e. I’m getting used to my local track and I’m able to push the buggy harder and harder. Today the motor was 185* with a temp gun after an 8 minute run at the track. I’m running a 13 tooth pinion with the only changes to the esc being the punch turned up to 9 and the Lipo cell count changed to 4 cell. The track is a medium to large size with hard packed clay that gets dusty as the day goes on. Temp was 95* outside (North Florida) and I have no ventilation holes in the body. Should I cut vent holes or turn the punch down? Any help would be great.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Had my first day at the track with a Xerun XR8 SCT. Got home and checked the data logs to find my peak ESC temp at 158, and peak motor at 143. I’m running boost at 5, no timing or anything else. Just the out of the box settings. 17t pinion with a Tekin 4300 Pro4 hd in SCT410.3 all stock setup. Are these pretty typical temps for the ESC. Just trying to get a baseline what normal would be. External temps with heat gun were of course lower.
I’m running an XR8 Plus combo with a g2 1900kv motor in my mp9e. I’m getting used to my local track and I’m able to push the buggy harder and harder. Today the motor was 185* with a temp gun after an 8 minute run at the track. I’m running a 13 tooth pinion with the only changes to the esc being the punch turned up to 9 and the Lipo cell count changed to 4 cell. The track is a medium to large size with hard packed clay that gets dusty as the day goes on. Temp was 95* outside (North Florida) and I have no ventilation holes in the body. Should I cut vent holes or turn the punch down? Any help would be great.
2 questions. My newTekno MT410 is running a brand new xr8 plus and 4274 2250kv motor combo. First I have the smallest pinion I can run at 15T. The motor will easily get hot. I never got it above 181, but I was giving it a lot of breaks. It was 90* outside. I am running the proline mx3.8 badlands. The ESC said it hit a max temp of 201. No idea when, since I can not get to the datalogs with the phone app. So I have installed a big fan on the motor and solved my warm motor problem. I am concerned with amps being drawn and ESC temps. No boost or timing is being added. Should this ESC be running this hot? Also, my castle mamba x esc allows me to see current, ripple, motor rpm, everything is logged if I want. This leads to my second question. With all of my heat issues, I would like to see some Logging. Can this XR8 give me data logs besides the few max readings i can get with the useless wifi module.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
2 questions. My newTekno MT410 is running a brand new xr8 plus and 4274 2250kv motor combo. First I have the smallest pinion I can run at 15T. The motor will easily get hot. I never got it above 181, but I was giving it a lot of breaks. It was 90* outside. I am running the proline mx3.8 badlands. The ESC said it hit a max temp of 201. No idea when, since I can not get to the datalogs with the phone app. So I have installed a big fan on the motor and solved my warm motor problem. I am concerned with amps being drawn and ESC temps. No boost or timing is being added. Should this ESC be running this hot? Also, my castle mamba x esc allows me to see current, ripple, motor rpm, everything is logged if I want. This leads to my second question. With all of my heat issues, I would like to see some Logging. Can this XR8 give me data logs beside the few max readings I can get with the useless wifi module?
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
EZRun WP-SC8 w/CapPack
A motor almost completely seized up and the ESC shot crap out of it's capacitors. I first thought I fried the ESC. I hooked up another motor and battery...the darn thing still works.
After searching the interwebs for how to replace the capacitors on the EZRun WP-SC8, I came up with nothing. So I opened 'er up. Well, I tried to anyway. Meh, the thing is sealed tight.
I ordered a cappack in hopes of just using that soldered to the ESC's battery leads. Will that work without taking the other capacitors out?
After searching the interwebs for how to replace the capacitors on the EZRun WP-SC8, I came up with nothing. So I opened 'er up. Well, I tried to anyway. Meh, the thing is sealed tight.
I ordered a cappack in hopes of just using that soldered to the ESC's battery leads. Will that work without taking the other capacitors out?
Just gave the buggy all kinds of heck on the track. CapPak wired up; glued to the side of ESC, and hanging on for dear life. Don't know if it's doing what it's supposed to be doing, but the WP-SC8, with onboard blown caps, feels like it did when it was new. I'm so glad I didn't have to go out and buy another ESC.
Hi, ive been trying to find info on the specs for xerun stock spec v3.1(discontinued). Can anyone confirm if this esc has turbo/boost? Ive downloaded manuals and checked the site and it looks like it does but i thought "stock spec" meant it wasn't adjustable.
thanks
thanks
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
Yes it does have turbo/boost
Tech Rookie
Hi, I’m having an issue getting V4 XR10 pro stock. It’s been running great for a few months. I switched it to another car, shortened motor and cap wires. Started up fine, fan worked, but then esc turned off by itself after 2secs. Now when I start it the led turns solid red, fan no longer runs, steering unresponsive. I’ve checked the receiver on another esc and it’s fine. ESC wire wasn’t plugged in backwards. If I hold start button down to reset it will blink and chirp constantly as normal but once i click button again it will turn off rather than going through reset process. Have I fried it somehow during soldering? Thanks in advance