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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 12-10-2017, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by DirkW
Manual, item 2A: you set the switching point between 1st and 2nd stage punch with a range of 1-99% (in 1% steps) of throttle position.
Yes I read that about 100 times,lol. I would like a little more explanation since I run a super loose track with a small turn motor. So punch is critical to get right.
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:17 AM
  #12152  
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It's something you'll have to test at the track, both the switch point and the punch for each. If your track is really loose you'll probably want a switch point that's higher (50% or more) and a generally low punch setting for each point. Keep in mind that once the vehicle is already rolling current draw is less than it would be from a standstill.
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:29 AM
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Well, first of all: do you really need two different punch levels? Setting punch level for track condition and personal preference is one thing, setting two different ones for different throttle positions could actually do more harm than good.

But if you want to try and use 2 different levels, usually, low throttle is used for tight corners, etc. so with a super loose track, I'd set it pretty low, no more than 10 or so for stage 1. Stage 2, for when you need that small blip of power for a jump in offroad, or for a longer straight, I'd try something around 20, plus or minus. You can try 5/15 for a start, if your conditions are really that bad... or 10/20... really depends on conditions. As for the switching point... that's mostly personal preference... not too far from 50 in either direction, I'd say. Around 30-70, I guess. Try from there, and see if you're happy, otherwise raise or lower what you don't like. After all, it's you driving, so you'll have to figure out what you like - can't be done by anyone else.
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Old 12-10-2017, 05:17 PM
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What’s a good esc for stock 17.5 buggy and 13.5 4x4 buggy
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Old 12-11-2017, 05:38 AM
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I think the little Pro Stock SPec is an awesome little esc, especially for the money. So far I have used it down to a 10.5 in a stadium truck.
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Old 12-11-2017, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Mxer59
Whatís a good esc for stock 17.5 buggy and 13.5 4x4 buggy
The Stock Spec. Is the best for that application.
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Old 12-11-2017, 09:56 AM
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Anyone else have a rotor snap in half on their 5.5? Motor has minimal use in my B64d.
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Old 12-11-2017, 11:49 AM
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'Minimum battery voltage' reading on my xerun 3.1 data logger is reading close to 13 volts with a 2s battery. Low voltage cut off is disabled, because it was kicking in too early. Has anybody seen this happen?
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Old 12-11-2017, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by KCodd
Anyone else have a rotor snap in half on their 5.5? Motor has minimal use in my B64d.
Ive used the 5.5 v10g2 for 18 months and no isues so far. Rpm in the straight is 46000 rpm as noted on the data logger.

Contact HW and see what they say....
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Old 12-11-2017, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by moistAF
'Minimum battery voltage' reading on my xerun 3.1 data logger is reading close to 13 volts with a 2s battery. Low voltage cut off is disabled, because it was kicking in too early. Has anybody seen this happen?
I think when you turn off the lvc you dont get a correct reading on the voltage. I set mine to 3.0 and I have had no problems.
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:18 AM
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I’m going to fill out an rma and send it in because when I tried to call the system prompted me to do so. My motor is the second 5.5 I know of to have done the same thing this month. The other guy had it fail on his first lap in a B64d. I’m thinking it may be a bad metal run.
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Old 12-13-2017, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tvih
I'm kinda wondering about my XR8-SCT. There's a bit of a delay in getting acceleration when starting from a standstill. I can slam to even wide open throttle, but it'll take the ESC nearly half a second to properly kick the motor's butt. When already moving at more than an absolute crawl the response is much faster, as well as if the tires aren't on the ground.

It's not a huge issue, but still a somewhat odd behavior that my other (non-HW) ESCs haven't shown. It's kinda like having a very low initial punch setting or something. This ESC doesn't have that as user configurable, and the "general" punch is set to max. It's actually kinda silly how this not-at-all-cheap ESC has relatively limited programming options, whereas my cheap as chips Turnigys for example have more settings than I know what to do with.
I have the same problem, not sure where to start.

Last edited by Kkrazy; 12-13-2017 at 11:20 PM.
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Old 12-14-2017, 05:15 AM
  #12163  
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Originally Posted by Kkrazy
I have the same problem, not sure where to start.
Make sure your LVC is set right and the battery cell count is set also. Turn the hybrid or non sensored mode on and try that too...
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Old 12-14-2017, 05:28 AM
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Default Xr10 pro spec 1 cell

Hey guys, Iíve been having issues with my xr10 randomly shutting down on the track, my steering stays on but the lower button light is off. I have to unplug the battery and plug it back in to get it to fire up again. Any help appreciated. Itís about a year old and I run the wgtr class with a 17.5
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Old 12-14-2017, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Kkrazy
I have the same problem, not sure where to start.
Here's what I like to do to diagnose problems

1) If you made any changes to your ESC programming, then I would reset everything back to factory default. Also reset the radio if necessary, follow the calibration directions very carefully and pretend like this is a fresh install... re-calibrate the ESC. If the ESC loses calibration frequently then you might have a bad radio, potentiometer may need to be replaced on the throttle, etc... swap radio with a known good radio to test. Also check all wiring is clean and tight, any loose connections can be problematic, sometimes it's worth the effort to re-solder everything just to have nice fresh connections to play it safe

2) If problem persists then: Swap sensor wire with a known good wire

3) If problem persists then: Use a sensor tester to verify motor sensor board is good ( I use this one here: https://www.redwingrc.com/product.php?productid=955)

4) If problem persists then: Pull out motor and disassemble, inspect rotor for any damage (cracked magnets, etc)

5) If problem persists then: Swap motor with a known good motor

6) If problem persists then: Swap ESC with a known good ESC
*** very important to swap motor first... a bad motor can kill a good ESC... been there done that!

*** generally, most issues are motor related... sometimes a sensor wire connector goes bad, a hard crash can take out a sensor board, an overheated motor can burn up a stator and any debris in the motor can damage a rotor... sometimes ESC's can get finicky if they are over heated or damaged from a bad crash or hard landing from a big jump, Kyosho sells an impact resistant gel-tape that is good to help absorb shock, I also use a zip tie to secure the ESC firmly over the fan mount... but over time almost all ESC's will start to glitch after too many hard impacts. Best advice is to drive clean and always land smooth on the down ramps to avoid hard chassis slaps!

*** Mysterious Issue resolved: ESC shuts off when applying throttle or steering input
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Last edited by billdelong; 11-12-2023 at 08:30 AM.
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