HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD
My galaxy 7 edge does that sometimes too. after I select the setting it takes a bit to register and then pick the setting. At one point I was changing the settings and it went back to the factory settings and I had to change them all again.
Just bought a couple of Turnigy servos for my B6 buggy. Looking for an aluminum servo horn , and one that will make the alignment a little better. I believe they are 26 spline?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Tech Initiate
Don't expect a soluition
I had to use a I-PAD. They'll tell ya that they can't reproduce the issue. Fix the Android app HW. New customers and tech rookies like me are getting frustrated with your products. Of course they will delete this post, can't allow an unsatisfied customer express their opinion.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
I had to use a I-PAD. They'll tell ya that they can't reproduce the issue. Fix the Android app HW. New customers and tech rookies like me are getting frustrated with your products. Of course they will delete this post, can't allow an unsatisfied customer express their opinion.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
anybody have a good zero timing mode setting for 2wd buggy using a Xerun Stock Spec V3.1 ?
Tech Initiate
Hi, I just bought max10 sct for my 1/8 e buggy last week,
have no problem until I plug the battery lead wrong way, i know my mistake.
seems like capacitor blown.
on 4s battery its still turn-on okay(not on 2s), the fan are spinning, my steering servo still get the power from BEC but no throttle.
tried to open the case last night to replace the blown caps, it tight seal and i have no idea how to open them?
have anyone have this experience? will it fixable or the ESC are done?
have no problem until I plug the battery lead wrong way, i know my mistake.
seems like capacitor blown.
on 4s battery its still turn-on okay(not on 2s), the fan are spinning, my steering servo still get the power from BEC but no throttle.
tried to open the case last night to replace the blown caps, it tight seal and i have no idea how to open them?
have anyone have this experience? will it fixable or the ESC are done?
I'm getting a lot of cogging when going from throttle to neutral with an XR10 Pro Stock Spec. Unfortunately I don't have a program box or WiFi card just yet (I didn't realize you couldn't program the ESC without one of these). I double checked the sensor at both ends and all looks good, and there's no cogging when slowly applying throttle.
Since the ESC is at default settings, I'm hoping there's something I can tweak once I have the ability to program it that will help with his... maybe a little bit of drag brake?
Since the ESC is at default settings, I'm hoping there's something I can tweak once I have the ability to program it that will help with his... maybe a little bit of drag brake?
So after my last race on Wednesday everything was fine. My program card came in the other day so I tried to change some settings. I had to update the lcd card but I got it to work. Today I went to play with it and it kept going in to low voltage cut off. Even though the battery's were just charged. I installed my big race battery and it seamed to stop going in to low voltage cut off. After a few minuets I noticed it didn't want to accelerate from a stop. I thought maybe a stick got Jammed in it so nothing. I one of my sensor wires were broken. So I unplugged the sensor wire and used the lcd box to put it back in hybrid mode. But it still is having the same problem. No power. It's like something is binding. After a few pulls on the throttle it stops responding to throttle inputs completely and I have to turn it off and back on. Any ideas on what to check
Here is a video of it.
You can hear it cog a little bit on accelerate.
https://youtu.be/YJnUqhVsYFU
You can hear it cog a little bit on accelerate.
https://youtu.be/YJnUqhVsYFU
Any chance of an update to the software and/or esc's to graphically program boost and turbo? Specifically the V3.1 and XR10 stock spec for me. I find the current method a bit confusing at times.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
So after my last race on Wednesday everything was fine. My program card came in the other day so I tried to change some settings. I had to update the lcd card but I got it to work. Today I went to play with it and it kept going in to low voltage cut off. Even though the battery's were just charged. I installed my big race battery and it seamed to stop going in to low voltage cut off. After a few minuets I noticed it didn't want to accelerate from a stop. I thought maybe a stick got Jammed in it so nothing. I one of my sensor wires were broken. So I unplugged the sensor wire and used the lcd box to put it back in hybrid mode. But it still is having the same problem. No power. It's like something is binding. After a few pulls on the throttle it stops responding to throttle inputs completely and I have to turn it off and back on. Any ideas on what to check
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
What's the average turn around to get a response for an RMA submission?
Tech Master
iTrader: (48)
updating
If the programming box has the latest firmware, is the ESC automatically updated when hooked up to the programming box, or do both have to be hooked up to a PC to get updated?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)