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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 12-17-2016, 06:19 PM
  #11221  
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So....a buddy of mine got a brand new wi-fi unit plugged it in his speedo and it would not light up. I tried mine and it would not light up. Now when I plug it into my speedo there is no longer a light on or detection from the app. On my phone.......I guess something in his speedo blew it.

Last edited by Slotmachine; 12-18-2016 at 09:00 AM.
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:22 AM
  #11222  
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Default Having some bad luck, 2 dead 3656's in two days!

I bought the SCT Pro combo from my local hobby shop and which has the sector 120 amp esc, and the 4000kv rerun 3656 motor. This is for my daughters Tekno SCT410.3, I had the speed controller set up stock other then just calibrating the throttle to the remote. She got 3 battery packs through the car before the green and red lights started flashing on the ESC and the motor would no longer turn. Upon inspection there was a very small rock that had been lodged in the spur gear. I removed the rock and recalibrate the esc to the controller and the motor was still non op and the esc still flashing. I took the motor back to the hobby shop and they told me that the motor was dead because of the small rock had stopped the gears. In the manual for the ESC it says that is has "Motor blocked protection" which I would assume protects the motor and esc in the case that the motor gets blocked. Is this correct???

Now in this situation we were driving on concrete and I had the throttle turned down to 30% so the car couldn't move faster then about 12mph, she is still learning how to drive. At the time I was watching her and when the car wouldn't move forward we opened up the car, there was no smoke from the motor, in fact the motor was cool to the touch so it was really hard for me to believe it failed from "Burning up"

So new motor was installed and this time It was the 3656 4700kv with a 14T pinion. This time I drove the drove the car and into my second pack with the new motor it started Cogging, I pulled off the top and had a look at the spur, not rocks or obstructions, ESC light flashing green and red indication that the motor had overloaded or demagnetized. I felt the motor and it was warm but not hot by any means. On close inspection of the motor the end cap had come loose at the top where the power wires enter on the board. This is on a brand new motor. I tried reseating the end cap and recalibrating the esc but it still is cogging and the esc still flashes green/red. What the heck?? Am I just having bad luck or are these motors really that vulnerable/not durable?

Help please.
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Old 12-18-2016, 12:37 PM
  #11223  
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Default EZRUN WP 80-A not so waterproof

So I recently bought an EZRUN WP 80-A to run in a Tower Hobbies Cutback. This was to replace the Cutback's original "waterproof" ESC that failed after getting wet once.

So there was one puddle on our track yesterday which I tried to avoid but of course at one point I did go through the puddle. Shortly after, the ESC seems to be acting odd and beeping. Then an hour later, it would not run the motor at all. I noticed that on power on, the red LED stayed on for longer than usual. It usually just flashes very briefly. I could communicate with my programmer, the BEC was running the RX, everything OK except no motor power. I opened it all up in case water had gotten inside. It seemed dry but I left it open overnight. Today, it works fine again.

So what is the deal? I know the instructions say that actually the ESC is only water resistant but if it can't take one trip through a shallow puddle then it's really not water resistance at all.
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:21 PM
  #11224  
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Default Xerun v3.1 Question

My xerun v3.1 only runs without a sensor wire attached. Tried a couple sensor wires, two motors, 3 different batteries (you never know?) known working speedo to confirm the equipment works properly. I am new to Hobbywing equipment....I updated firmware, reset my radio and speedo, set to a new program (blinky stock) with my programmer.
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Old 12-18-2016, 09:32 PM
  #11225  
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Originally Posted by jonlohne
I bought the SCT Pro combo from my local hobby shop and which has the sector 120 amp esc, and the 4000kv rerun 3656 motor. This is for my daughters Tekno SCT410.3, I had the speed controller set up stock other then just calibrating the throttle to the remote. She got 3 battery packs through the car before the green and red lights started flashing on the ESC and the motor would no longer turn. Upon inspection there was a very small rock that had been lodged in the spur gear. I removed the rock and recalibrate the esc to the controller and the motor was still non op and the esc still flashing. I took the motor back to the hobby shop and they told me that the motor was dead because of the small rock had stopped the gears. In the manual for the ESC it says that is has "Motor blocked protection" which I would assume protects the motor and esc in the case that the motor gets blocked. Is this correct???

Now in this situation we were driving on concrete and I had the throttle turned down to 30% so the car couldn't move faster then about 12mph, she is still learning how to drive. At the time I was watching her and when the car wouldn't move forward we opened up the car, there was no smoke from the motor, in fact the motor was cool to the touch so it was really hard for me to believe it failed from "Burning up"

So new motor was installed and this time It was the 3656 4700kv with a 14T pinion. This time I drove the drove the car and into my second pack with the new motor it started Cogging, I pulled off the top and had a look at the spur, not rocks or obstructions, ESC light flashing green and red indication that the motor had overloaded or demagnetized. I felt the motor and it was warm but not hot by any means. On close inspection of the motor the end cap had come loose at the top where the power wires enter on the board. This is on a brand new motor. I tried reseating the end cap and recalibrating the esc but it still is cogging and the esc still flashes green/red. What the heck?? Am I just having bad luck or are these motors really that vulnerable/not durable?

Help please.
It sounds like a bad sensor wire......remove the sensor wire completely and try the truck. If this works try a new sensor wire. In some very rare cases the sensor board (hall sensor) in the motor is bad.
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Old 12-18-2016, 09:33 PM
  #11226  
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Originally Posted by rmargiotta
My xerun v3.1 only runs without a sensor wire attached. Tried a couple sensor wires, two motors, 3 different batteries (you never know?) known working speedo to confirm the equipment works properly. I am new to Hobbywing equipment....I updated firmware, reset my radio and speedo, set to a new program (blinky stock) with my programmer.
Did you try another brand new sensor wire? Make sure you seat it all the way into the speed control and motor.
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:49 PM
  #11227  
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Default Hobbywing WP-1080 for racing??

We run a Mod bodied stock Slash class with the 12T brushed Titan motor ... however, we are allowed to change from the XL5 to another brushed speed control .. in searching what is out there, I came across the HW WP-1080, but see it is generally built/used for Crawlers ... I know nothing about Crawlers, and what they use/need, but I am wondering if this would also be suitable for higher speed dirt racing in an otherwise stock Slash? ... I like the idea of being able to dial in varying amounts of drag brake ... thanks!

Edit to add: Forward/Brake only ... won't need reverse
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Old 12-19-2016, 02:39 AM
  #11228  
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I have a HW Stock Spec V3.1 and was wondering if connecting another fan (aside from the stock esc fan plugged into it's designated outlet) using the programming port would affect the overall performance of the esc and also would battery consumption would increase and drain the battery faster. I have these escs in a 2wd and 4wd buggy running 17.5T and 13.5T motors respectively.... if that even matters.
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Old 12-19-2016, 03:15 AM
  #11229  
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.

Last edited by rcuser67898578; 12-09-2023 at 12:08 PM.
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:55 AM
  #11230  
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Originally Posted by rmargiotta
My xerun v3.1 only runs without a sensor wire attached. Tried a couple sensor wires, two motors, 3 different batteries (you never know?) known working speedo to confirm the equipment works properly. I am new to Hobbywing equipment....I updated firmware, reset my radio and speedo, set to a new program (blinky stock) with my programmer.
Did this particular V3.1 ever work properly in the past? If so, did anything "change" from then to now? OR, is this a brand new ESC to you?
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:57 AM
  #11231  
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Originally Posted by tomkatn
We run a Mod bodied stock Slash class with the 12T brushed Titan motor ... however, we are allowed to change from the XL5 to another brushed speed control .. in searching what is out there, I came across the HW WP-1080, but see it is generally built/used for Crawlers ... I know nothing about Crawlers, and what they use/need, but I am wondering if this would also be suitable for higher speed dirt racing in an otherwise stock Slash? ... I like the idea of being able to dial in varying amounts of drag brake ... thanks!

Edit to add: Forward/Brake only ... won't need reverse
Typically crawler ESC's run the highest drag brake available anywhere (Like, brake is on always). Is there a reason you are leaning towards a crawler ESC? All HW ESC's allow you to adjust drag brake, not just crawler base ones.
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:11 AM
  #11232  
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Originally Posted by flamingtire
Typically crawler ESC's run the highest drag brake available anywhere (Like, brake is on always). Is there a reason you are leaning towards a crawler ESC? All HW ESC's allow you to adjust drag brake, not just crawler base ones.
In the quest for an inexpensive, simple and durable brushed ESC, I was looking at the WP-1060, but it didn't look like that model had the option for adjusting drag brake?
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:40 AM
  #11233  
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
It sounds like a bad sensor wire......remove the sensor wire completely and try the truck. If this works try a new sensor wire. In some very rare cases the sensor board (hall sensor) in the motor is bad.
Yes I tried a different sensor wire. As I mentioned in the post earlier the rear bell end was separating from the motor can, I removed the 4 screws and found that the armature was floating around inside the can, acting like a slide hammer hahah. Pretty sure that the armature is supposed to be glued in place so it doesn't slide into the sensor board. This is a brand spanking new motor on the first pack.

I guess Ill try and get it warrantied.
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:49 AM
  #11234  
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Rookie question:

I've got a Justock Club Spec blue ESC laying in a drawer and I'm wondering if I can safely wire it up to a 10.5T Trinity motor that I have, running on 2S. It would be for bashing my old B5M, not racing.

Specs say: With 2S Lipo or 4-6 cells NiMH, 1/10 on-road>=8.5T, 1/10 off-road>=11.5T
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:44 AM
  #11235  
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Originally Posted by tomkatn
In the quest for an inexpensive, simple and durable brushed ESC, I was looking at the WP-1060, but it didn't look like that model had the option for adjusting drag brake?
Ahh, I see your dilemma. Yeah, you can't even adjust the WP-1060 with a program card either. I know most traditional "Brushed" ESC's never really came with drag brake as brushed motors inherently "create" drag brake on their own.

After looking more at the WP-1080, you should be in good shape as long as you purchase the program card with it. From the factory it comes with 100% drag brake, which would be mayhem on an oval track. But, with the card you can dial it down to 0% if necessary. That's actually a pretty versatile Brushed ESC for the money
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